1983 Prelude suddenly quit running,won't start

This car has been running great, but on the way to work the other
morning it just quit running. No noises or prior warning, just quit, and
no hint of wanting to start (the starter works fine)since. Electrical:
Big fat spark from the coil, small spark at plugs. Fuel: I get fuel
past the fuel filter, and the fuel cut-off selenoid works. I checked
the timing belt, the TDC timing mark and the cam timing marks indicate
no slippage of the belt, which appears to be in good shape and not oily.
The car doesn't even try to fire after spraying starting fluid into
the carburator.

Any suggestions as to what to try next?
Thanks,
Greg

 

Ever had a new ignitor put in?

If not, check or replace it. Around $200 at a shop. The ignitor (just the cost
of the part that is) itself runs $90.

Plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor, and distributor coil are
all candidates for problems, too.

This area is my specialty, so others may have better clues about other causes.

 

This car has been running great, but on the way to work the other

Do all plugs work? I assume so. If not remove all four, smell them -should have
fuel. Next test them side by side, shut off the fuel supply and with no plugs,
crank for 5 seconds. Plugs should have no miss. File down the plug's electrodes
flat. Widening the gap a little. Put everything back, try again. Later, try
checking compression.

Note: It is perfectly safe to ground the coil's secondary if not being used to
power a plug, for example. Doing so prevents damage to igniter.
Indi

 

Ignition timing when cranking?

 

Indian Summer

Was wondering what you meant. I see now, - have someone advance and retard
the timing as you crank to find that `sweet spot,' -works great.

 

Sometimes the timing is off from specs. Like off far enough that the car
will run when warm but not once it cools off. It's due to an error on the
part of the last guy to work on the car. I suggested to the OP that this be
checked because it's something he hadn't checked yet.

 

D'oh! The huge difference in spark quality between the coil (big, fat
spark) and the plugs (weak, meager spark) prompted me to start with the
cheapest, simplest solution. Replacing the distributor cap & rotor
solved the problem. Very strange to me that it would just completely
stop running while hot, but it runs fine now! No obvious cracks or
anything on the cap, and I had even cleaned off the contacts and rotor
with emory cloth and even elongated the center carbon electrode in the
cap to no avail. Clearly a demonstration of the KISS concept: Keep It
Simple Stupid.

Thanks all,
Greg