1988 Accord LX alternator

It looks like I will be replacing the alternator on a 1988 Accord LX. I took
a quick peek and it looks tight under there. Any tips on changing the
alternator? Any good source for a replacement? Any brands to avoid? TIA.

 

Have you considered just replacing the brushes and maybe the
bearings?

I haven't done this but am going to give it a whirl in the
next year or so as "preventive maintenance." Discussions
here and googling indicated the brushes are usually what
fail on alternators.

 

To take it out from above, remove the air cleaner, then the bracket on
the firewall holding the heater hoses. You can then pass the alt
between the engine and firewall, if you orient it just right, and take
it out on the battery side. It is very difficult, but not impossible,
to replace brushes in place.

 

To add to Misterbeets, if you find it won't come without alot of cursing (the
one in my 87 prelude was like that) and you don't want to do any damage to
anything, just take the following steps:

1. Place a jack with a 2x4 piece of lumber under the oil pan and jack up the
motor about 1/2 to 3/4 inch.
2. Remove the motor mount on the alternator side of the engine. (2 bolts)
3. Lower the jack some.

This gives you a little more 'wiggle' room and it makes it SO much easier to
get at the alternator. Its not as big a deal as it sounds.

Just make sure that when you put the mount back on, you torque the bolts to
spec, i believe it was 90 ft-lbs for the prelude.

t

 

I replaced the brushes in my 88 accord LX alternator (still in place)
about a year ago. It was not so bad, but I did have the car on a lift
(gives more room), in a heated garage, and had my neighbor's great tool
collection (some nice small wrenches helped with funny access) in
adition to my own. He also helped me at some key parts, but I probably
could have gotten it done myself (although in a lot more time). If you
do the job, buy the brushes with their holder (it costs little more but
makes the job easier). If you are very experienced (I am, but am not a
pro), I say go for it. If you are a novice, it might be hard.

 

Thanks for the tips. I'm probably going to do this this weekend.
Unfortunately I already ordered the brushes without the holder. I plan on
pulling the alternator to do this, no try it with the alt in place. So I
hope that makes getting the brushes in place easier.

 

I took care of this this past weekend. I pulled the alternator, I didn't try
to replace the brushes with it still in the car. Once pulled, I checked the
brushes, and they were fine. I took a closer look and I don't see how I could
have replaced them. Getting them in the holder is the way to go. We took the
alternator to the local autozone to get it tested, it was dead. So I just
ended up getting a rebuilt alternator.

If you plan on doing this anytime soon, I can give you some tips. Jack the car
up and support it on jack stands. Be careful and follow the instruactions in
your owners manual on how to properly support the car. The remove left front
wheel and the splash guard. Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt, 12mm deep
socket. The loosen the pivot bolt, 14mm. Then slide the alternator to get the
belt off. Then remove the bolt that holds the admusting bolt in place, 12mm.
There is a thick washer between the alternator bracket and the alternator, so
expect it to fall when you pull this bolt. Then completely remove the pivot
nut and push the pivot bolt out. The alternator will now be loose. Carefully
pry it out of the lower mounting bracket. Then remove the two bolts, 14mm,
holding the bracket to the engine. The bolt holes have two bushings in them.
When I pulled mine, one bushing came out with the bracket and the other stayed
attached to the engine. Don't lose the bushings.
At this point only the wires are holding the alternator in place. A 10mm bolt
holds a cable in place. You can then unplug the connector. You can use use a
8mm socket to remove the bracket that hold the wore harness to the alternator
body. The alternator will not be free. Unfortunately there is no room to get
it out through the top or bottom. Some manuals will suggest removing the drive
shaft, but there is an easier way. You will need a jack and a block of wood.
Put the block of wood on the oil pan and then bring the jack up till it touches
the block of wood. Then remove the cruise control module, 2 10mm bolts, that
mounts to the enging mount point on the left (drivers) side of the car. Then
remove the bolts holding the mount to the body and the motor, 3 14mm bolts.
Now rais the jack under the oil pan. The engine should go up about
inches or so. At this point you can maneuver the alternator out through the
wheel well opening. Then go in reverse order to install everything. I did
have one problem. The cover that goes over the brushes and voltage regulater
was a tight fit around the plug area. I didn't realize this and put the
alternator back in the car and tried to plug the plug in. It took me a while
to give up and pull the alternator out to try to figure out the problem. A few
minutes with a file took care of the problem. Hope this helps someone out.

 

The only thing I would add to the detail provided is to DISCONNECT THE
BATTERY before doing any of that.

If you don't, you'll get a good spark when you try to fiddle with it, and
you'll blow the 80 Amp main fuse....

I learn by experience.... grrrrr.... try finding an 80 amp screw down fuse
at 9:30pm on a saturday.

t

 

Oops, that's the one part I forgot to mention, though I did do that when
I swapped out the alternator.

 

I also forgot to remove bat cables and blew fusible link while doing
alternator brushectomy. Surprisingly, they were dirt cheap at the
Honda dealer, only $1 ea, while internet retailers are ripping for
$3-6 each. Try your dealer first.

nb