1990 Civic Suspension Questions

Discussion in 'Civic' started by Dave Wick, Nov 29, 2006.

  1. Dave Wick

    Dave Wick Guest

    I have an extremely nice 1990 Civic DX 4-door 5-speed 1.5L with about 135K
    miles. The rear trailing arm bushings (the big ones) are squeaking/creaking
    and I'm contemplating a little suspension work. So ...

    Should I go through the entire front and rear suspensions and replace ALL
    the rubber items plus upper and lower ball joints? The job really doesn't
    worry assuming I can get my hands on the proper tools.

    What about those upper ball joints? Do they ever really go bad or not?
    Would I be better off purchasing the upper a-arm assembly (that price looks
    good when one considers the bushings and potential ball joint)?

    Should I only replace the "main" bushings? What qualifies as "main"? Only
    the big ones in the rear and only the two per side on the long lower arm?
    More? What ones?

    Are there any special tips/tricks I should know? I want to restore the
    factory ride, handling and noise level (I'm not going to poly bushings!) and
    would plan on purchasing genuine Honda parts. Is there anything I should
    consider doing different ... different bushings in certain areas ...
    whatever, but again, noise and ride quality are the top priorities ... this
    won't be a race car for a long time ... if ever :)

    Now ... about those tools ...

    I've seen a really neat tool for the rear trailing arm bushings from Schley.
    What else is needed?

    Can these be rented/borrowed from anywhere? Does the typical Auto Zone have
    the required tools? Other sources? Or do I just have to really consider
    buying a few tools.

    Thanks a ton for any info!

    Dave
    '90 Civic - extremely nice
    '91 Civic - beater
    '89 Mustang GT
     
    Dave Wick, Nov 29, 2006
    #1
  2. Dave Wick

    jim beam Guest

    are you sure it's the bushings and not the springs?
    how much time and money do you want to spend? i've replaced all the
    bushings in my civics over the years, and by far the most important are
    the big ones in the lower rear trailing arms.
    absolutely. depends how you drive. if you corner hard, they tend to go
    sooner. ;)
    that's the only "honda" choice you get. any other ball joint-only
    solution is after-market.
    see above.
    factory is good enough. king motor sports sell mugen bushings which are
    genuine honda spec, only with a harder rubber for racing. they're top
    quality and don't squeak like urethane, /but/ they can make the ride a
    little harsh for some tastes - like mine.
    ball joint separator.
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html

    also, penetrating oil and maybe replacement bolts if there's rust
     
    jim beam, Nov 29, 2006
    #2
  3. Dave Wick

    MishaA Guest

    Well, I did exactly that job on my 92' Si a couple of years ago. I opted
    only for rubber parts, and I replaced all rubber parts. It runs much
    more stable since.

    Surprisingly, big bushings were not a problem at all - I easily pressed
    them out with a sledge, and the new ones easily slipped in under the
    light hammer hits after spending a few hours in the freezer.

    Lower arm I had to outsource to the shop with 20 ton press, and this
    was barely enough.

    The real problem were upper and compensator arm, because of seized
    bolts. I had to use grinder and sabre saw to get those parts out, and I
    ruined them in the process – so I had to get the new ones.

    Hope this helps.
     
    MishaA, Nov 29, 2006
    #3
  4. Dave Wick

    Tegger Guest



    I had trouble deciding what to snip off this post, and ended up leaving it
    as-is.

    First off, dont expect a world of difference in handling. If you want to
    restore the factory ride, you need to replace the shocks as well, and you
    will find they are extremely expensive unless you buy aftermarket. I left
    mine in place, as they weren't leaking. I figured $200 a pop wasn't worth
    it.

    I've done every single bushing on my '91 Integra over the last two summers.
    Every bushing was replaced with OEM. If you decide to do this, be prepared
    for some serious expenditure. I spent about $1500 all told, including
    paying garages to do the actual pressing.

    A proper balljoint tool is essential. An electric impact wrench is
    essential. Without those two, your life will be a living hell for days. You
    can rent both items. If not from AZ, then from an industrial supply house.

    Just remember to put the balljoint's castle nut back on upside down BEFORE
    you start pressing on it!

    Don't kid yourself that you'll be able to press the old bushings out
    yourself. Not with any sort of ease, anyway. Elle struggled for a long time
    with hers. I didn't bother. Having a garage press out/in the bushings on
    the rear cost me $250. The fronts were far simpler, costing me $30. I don't
    regret spending the money. It saved me tons of time. Apparently the Schley
    tool does work well for the big trailing arm bushing, though.

    If your car has rear drum brakes, you'll want to avoid having to open up
    the hydraulics. When Elle did her trailing arm bushings a while back, she
    used the Schley tool you mention, with good success. If your car has discs
    on the rear, you can remove the trailing arm without disconnecting the
    hydraulics.

    You will very likely suffer some seriously seized fasteners at the rear. If
    so, you will get absolutely nowhere unless you have a DeWalt DW-293
    electric impact wrench. And if that doesn't work, it's an angle grinder or
    nothing. All the front fasteners must be replaced, not reused. The rears
    can be reused.

    The balljoints are trivially easy with the right tool, but only for
    disconnecting them from the lower control arm. The lowers will have to be
    pressed out by a garage - with the knuckle OFF the car, which is a lot of
    work. The upper balljoint is only available OEM as part of the upper A-arm.
    And it's expensive.


    Some Google Groups links here:
    http://tinyurl.com/yglqw8
    http://tinyurl.com/ylojhm
    http://tinyurl.com/ymmjjl

    and from my site
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/new_front_bushings/
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/old-bushings/
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html

    and more Google Groups
    http://tinyurl.com/yzhcyn

    Good luck.
     
    Tegger, Nov 29, 2006
    #4
  5. Dave Wick

    Elle Guest

    Dave,

    I replaced all the front lower control arm bushings and all
    of the rear bushings on my 91 Civic this past summer. What
    Tegger said about my labor in pressing out the lower control
    arm bushings "by hand" is true. It can be done but it is
    /very/ labor intensive for an athletic woman. A man in
    half-decent shape will fare better without question, but one
    also has to be clever. OTOH, if you have access to a 20-ton
    shop press, this should be fine for pressing the old lower
    control arm bushings out and pushing the new ones in. But no
    guarantees on this. Those bushings really freeze up after a
    decade or so! See the newsgroup archives for reports on many
    who simply found a shop that pressed the control arm
    bushings in and out for a reasonable fee, albeit more than a
    few reported that the shop also admitted to having a lot of
    trouble pressing them in and out. The shop has to have a
    humongous press.

    I also agree with most everything else Tegger says.

    On the poly bushings: I decided not to go with them, because
    of the many reports of noise problems and some opinions that
    the ride was stiffer. I bought all bushings from online OEM
    parts sites.

    For the trailing arm bushings, I found that shops hesitated
    to agree to press them out. Also, some folks have had
    problems getting the shop to orient the bushings correctly.
    I got estimates on the job from both Pep Boys and my local
    Honda dealer, and found I would save a bundle if I bought
    the tool and bushings myself. I found the tool new on Ebay
    for $139 total, but I do not currently see it there.

    I hesitated to do more suspension work (e.g. ball joints),
    because I did not have evidence that they were failing. Plus
    I plan to keep the car only "another five years." I think my
    ride is smoother, but not by much.

    I did replace the stabilizer links in their entirety. Their
    rubber bushings were really shot, and on one, the steel was
    eaten away. They're an easy job.

    My site has a full report on all this, plus links to other
    sites discussing these jobs. See
    http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id15.html
     
    Elle, Nov 29, 2006
    #5
  6. Dave Wick

    Elle Guest

    Found one of the Schley "trailing arm bushing X-tractor"
    tools on ebay for $148 total. See

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Schley-Pro-Honda-Acura-Trailing-Arm-Bushing-X-TRACTOR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ007QQitemZ170012654925QQtcZphoto


    Some of the fellows posting at www.honda-tech.com are also
    passing one of the tools around by mail. See discussion at
    http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1589298

    Couldn't turn up much by way of companies selling the tool,
    currently, by googling for it.
     
    Elle, Nov 29, 2006
    #6
  7. Dave Wick

    Speedy Pete Guest

    I replaced all the suspension bushings in my Civic wagon with a hyper
    suspension kit. It was well worth it.

    They have the bushings for the trailing arm too that you DONT need an
    expensive tool.

    Follow the directions, use lots of their lube and you'll have a nice
    handling car.


    -Speedy
     
    Speedy Pete, Nov 29, 2006
    #7
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