1990 Honda Accord EX F22A Head Gasket Repair

Discussion in 'Accord' started by JG, Mar 5, 2006.

  1. JG

    JG Guest

    I'm preparing to perform the arduous removal of the head gasket,
    intake/exhaust gaskets, etc. because I know I'm leaking coolant. I've
    avoided driving the car for several months and the rainy season is
    almost over and I don't have a garage, so in three weeks I'll have my
    window of opportunity. I've read through the Chilton's and a pdf
    version of the European 1991 Accord (from a friend). I plan on buying
    genuine Honda parts from Majestic Honda, as they seem the most
    affordable for Honda-branded parts. Anyway, what else should I
    consider, as a shadetree mechanic (I'm confidant I can do this)? Since
    I'll have to pull the head off and get it machined/trued should I
    consider replacing all the valves? What does replacing the 16 valves
    entail in terms of all the parts (e.g. valve stems, valve stem seals,
    valve springs, getting the valve guides "knurled"? Would it be more
    cost effective to get a local shop to rebuild the head? Any special
    tools that I might need to invest in (valve spring compressor, etc.?)
    Thanks for any advice.
     
    JG, Mar 5, 2006
    #1
  2. JG

    jim beam Guest

    are you sure of this diagnosis? what are the symptoms?
    if it's very high mileage, don't bother. just replace with jdm.
    1. what makes you think it needs to be machined? if it doesn't need it,
    definitely don't do it. there's nothing like inexpert machining to
    screw it up completely.
    2. if it does need it [and it's most unlikely if you haven't overheated
    the motor], be very careful where you take it for the work. see 1.
    above. oem heads are near mirror finish on the sealing surface. yours
    should be too.
    3. if you do get it machined, you'll need a thicker head gasket.
    not unless they're burnt.
    seals, yes. forget the rest.
    no. unless this is "special" in some way, a junkyard head is the
    economic rebuild.
    yes, spring compressor is essential for replacing the valves. but as
    it's unlikely you'll need to do that if they're not burnt or you haven't
    snapped a timing belt, don't buy it 'cos you don't need it.
    if you pull the head, replace the timing belt and coolant pump while
    you're in there. don't replace anything else that you don't need to.

    when posting, /always/ state your mileage - it has a material bearing on
    the advice that's relevant.
     
    jim beam, Mar 5, 2006
    #2
  3. JG

    TE Cheah Guest

    | > I know I'm leaking coolant.
    Why not try a bottle of ( e.g. Abro's ) radiator sealant ?

    I use a 60ml syringe & a thick rubber gasket, to pump air into radiator
    ( after I seal its overflow-hose ) to put pressure onto coolant , so any
    leak ( when coolant is hot & pressurised ) from any joint ( on a cold
    engine ) can be felt on my finger.
     
    TE Cheah, Mar 5, 2006
    #3
  4. JG

    SoCalMike Guest

    a leak could just be the water pump, or a hose... or is the car BURNING
    coolant? or do you see it weeping from the head mating surfaces?
    unless it needs new valves, i wouldnt mess with it except for to
    possibly replace the valve stem seals.
     
    SoCalMike, Mar 5, 2006
    #4
  5. JG

    jim beam Guest

    because it coats everything with crap and ruins thermal conductivity.
    ever tried driving through the desert on a radiator with that stuff in
    it? better keep your eye on the gauges and make sure your aaa
    membership is paid up.
     
    jim beam, Mar 5, 2006
    #5
  6. JG

    JG Guest

    Hi Jim,

    Thanks for the great advice. The Accord EX has just under 260,000
    miles. It has overheated around five years ago. I have been diligent
    flushing/changing the coolant. I replaced the thermostat last summer
    when camping in the mountains when I know the engine would be working
    overtime. I only started having issues in the last 3-4 months; I've
    gone through over a gallon of coolant in the last month, on 60 degree
    days, white "sweet-smelling" smoke is coming out of the tailpipe (my
    friend smelled it, I wanted to keep my brain cells). At cold start up,
    regardless of the weather conditions, the car severly hesitates and
    barely starts, once warm, it works fine all day. I replaced the
    original main relay, which had a lot of brown electronic residue all
    over the inside, and this has helped somewhat, but white smoke is
    severly coming out of the tailpipe now. I've only driven it twice for
    short trips in the last month and a half.

    So, If I use the feeler gauges on a metal straightedge at all the
    different angles on the block and the head surface, and they are within
    range, don't even bother machining the head? I was told by some fellow
    slow shadetree mechanics that it would be a good idea to make sure the
    gasket fits, "so get it machined." Should I have to machine it, how do
    I get a thicker OEM gasket?

    My questions about the valves are only a novice guess, as I can hear
    the clicking pretty easily at idle. Maybe I won't mess with it.

    This car has taken care of me and my wife for several years and I want
    to reach 300,000 miles before giving up on it.
     
    JG, Mar 5, 2006
    #6
  7. JG

    JG Guest

    Thanks for the response. BTW the Accord EX has just under 260,000. I
    don't see any weeping between the head and the block on a superficial
    look. I do, however, have white smoke coming out of the tailpipe any
    time I've used the car.

    Maybe I'll avoid the the valves altogether. This would be my biggest
    job, doing the head gasket, timing belt, water pump.
     
    JG, Mar 5, 2006
    #7
  8. JG

    SoCalMike Guest

    as long as the car hasnt overheated, go ahead and just do a thorough job
    on the gasket/belt/pump. nothing but cleaning should be needed.
     
    SoCalMike, Mar 6, 2006
    #8
  9. JG

    jim beam Guest

    that's right. even if it /does/ have a little warping, i'd still be
    inclined to put it back untouched because the head & block tend to warp
    in sympathy so they still fit.
    not sure you can! i don't recall seeing them listed.
    that's probably piston slap - just have to live with it.
    you'll get there. if the motor needs more money after that, consider a
    replacement low mileage jdm engine. /much/ cheaper and more reliable
    than a rebuild.
     
    jim beam, Mar 6, 2006
    #9
  10. JG

    JG Guest

    Thanks SoCalMike,
    Any particular products you recommend for the cleaning of the gasket in
    conjunction with a gasket scraper? Also, I'll get the special
    attachment for my 1/2" breaker bar to hold the engine from truning when
    trying to get the special bolt off but I don't have air tools. I have
    several shops nearby (under a mile) that should be willing to losen the
    159 ft/lbs. bolt and drive the car home before I start the whole job. I
    do have a click-type torque wrench so I should be able to torque it.
     
    JG, Mar 6, 2006
    #10
  11. JG

    JG Guest

    Thanks again for the tips, JG.
     
    JG, Mar 6, 2006
    #11
  12. JG

    SoCalMike Guest

    this may sound like heresy/abuse, but ive used wire brush attachments
    in a drill to make quick work of the stuff that cant be scraped off. the
    ones ive used are relatively cheap/disposable, so the wires arent a very
    thick gauge.

    i use the kind that has the wires "radiating" from the center, like a
    sun. i also go over the whole valve area and get all the carbon off. and
    ive also used a cup-shaped brush attachment to get any carbon off the
    piston. i WOULDNT use the type that chucks into an angle grinder... itll
    remove aluminum.
     
    SoCalMike, Mar 7, 2006
    #12
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