1991 Accord Dead Igntion

Discussion in 'Accord' started by Phil, Nov 1, 2003.

  1. Phil

    Phil Guest

    My 1991 Accord stopped running, without warning. I towed it home and
    determined the timing belt is not broken, but that there is no spark. How
    can I determine what the cause of this problem is? The distributor rotor
    turns, and there is no evidence of distributor bearing failure (no dust). I
    understand the igniter may be a problem, but that there may be no way to
    test it without just buying one, which is not returnable. Also, does the
    rotor just pull off? It does not want to come off.

    Thank you,

    - Phil
     
    Phil, Nov 1, 2003
    #1
  2. Phil

    N.E.Ohio Bob Guest

    I have a good ignitor from a '90 Accord I can send you. bob
     
    N.E.Ohio Bob, Nov 2, 2003
    #2
  3. Phil

    N.E.Ohio Bob Guest

    Also, feel free to take the dist out of the car. Mark on the block
    where the rotor is pointing, and then take all the bolts out and remove
    the dist. The rotor will pry off with a big blade screwdriver. There is
    a test for the ignitor, I can check the manual if you have a meter. bob
     
    N.E.Ohio Bob, Nov 2, 2003
    #3
  4. Phil

    Artfulcodger Guest

    About 3 years ago on our 92 Accord I had what sounds like the same
    problem --- was the ignition relay located under the left foot rest that was
    the problem as I recall.

    That has been the only failure this car has had since new -- all other
    repair bills have been for normal maintenance and wearables such as exhaust,
    tires, brakes and minor front end.

    If I can remember the bill was something like $200 can. Oh one other thing
    failed and that was the radio antenna which I replace with an old fashioned
    stick style rather than the one hidden power one.

    I figure there's at least 3 to 4 more years of wear in this baby with just
    180,000 km on it now.

    Hope yours is as dependable as this one.

    The Artful Codger
     
    Artfulcodger, Nov 2, 2003
    #4
  5. Phil

    jumpy Guest


    3 to 4 years? For sure! Mine's at 264,000km and compression is still great
    and it's my daily commuter & trip car! Amazing cars for a 4 cyl!
     
    jumpy, Nov 2, 2003
    #5
  6. Phil

    Phil Guest

    I have a typical multimeter, so if that is what is needed, I can test. What
    is the procedure. This car will not be kept for much longer, so do not want
    to buy a manual. So, if you can tell me what to look for, that would be
    great.

    - Phil
     
    Phil, Nov 2, 2003
    #6
  7. Phil

    Phil Guest

    How does one get to this?

    - Phil

     
    Phil, Nov 2, 2003
    #7
  8. Phil

    Artfulcodger Guest

    I personally did not repair this but my mechanic friend told me that is
    where the ignition module was located.
    Under the left foot rest on a 92 Accord.

    The Artful Codger
     
    Artfulcodger, Nov 2, 2003
    #8
  9. Phil

    Cheah TE Guest

    | How can I determine what the cause of this problem is?

    Touch the ridge ( above coil ) of your distributor cap while some1
    cranks engine, if you can feel ~1320v AC jolt, "ignitor" is fine.
     
    Cheah TE, Nov 2, 2003
    #9
  10. Phil

    Eric Guest

    Here's a link to an online version of the manual.
    http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/AccordManual/

    Eric
     
    Eric, Nov 3, 2003
    #10
  11. Phil

    G-Man Guest

    Just had this same problem on '91 Accord LX. Igniter and Coil was the
    problem. Expensive parts!

    G-Man
     
    G-Man, Nov 3, 2003
    #11
  12. Phil

    Phil Guest

    How expensive? May just give the car away if too pricey or too much hassle.

    - Phil
     
    Phil, Nov 4, 2003
    #12
  13. Phil

    toasty Guest

    hi,
    i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
    australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have
    no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for
    the "igniter"?
    is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
    i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
    know about that?

    hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!

    thanks and best wishes,

    michael
     
    toasty, Oct 31, 2004
    #13
  14. Phil

    RemcoW Guest

    Hi Mike

    I am doing something very similar on an Integra, which I am sure is very
    similar to an Accord.

    Yes, the ignitor is a small module with four connections on it. First
    determine if you have 12V on this subsystem by taking the cap off. Turn the
    car to the 'on' position (where all your dash lights are on but don't start
    the car. Don't leave it in this position too long; a couple of minutes won't
    hurt anything, though).
    Probe on the coil primary (that thing that looks like it has a chimney - the
    screw contacts are primary) - you will see 12V if power is getting to the
    distributor. You will also see close to 12V on your secondary, depending on
    the type of voltmeter you use.
    If you see 12V on your primary and absolutely nothing on secondary, your
    coil is probably bad. If you don't see 12V anywhere, I'd check the starter
    switch and trace it from there.

    If you see 12V on the secondary, your coil could still be bad, but it is far
    less likely.
    (It could have cracks, as was the case with mine. The thing comes off
    easily, so you may want to inspect it.)
    To check the ignitor (ICM), you will need to have access to a scope and
    probe the input (i.e. 12 V or so -- not the secondary of the coil as that
    will blow your scope up) to the module and start the car. If you see pulses,
    it is most likely the ignitor.
    I bought a new aftermarket ignitor for under $70 at carpartsamerica.com --
    OEM retail was $205 so it pays to shop around.

    Hope this is of use to you.
    Remco
     
    RemcoW, Nov 1, 2004
    #14
  15. With the scope I could see the input on mine was toggling from ground to
    about 10 or 12 volts, while the output (on the coil) stayed at battery
    voltage without a trace of toggling. Your test procedure is right on. A
    voltmeter may catch enough activity for a go/no-go test, but I'm not sure.
    If it acts bad, it probably is. If the voltage pulses from about 12V to
    about ground on the coil, without a multi-hundred volt positive spike when
    the voltage is released from ground, the coil is more likely bad.

    The 2 round head screws that hold the ignitor (on the outside of the
    distributor) can be very tight. If you aren't going to go to the trouble of
    removing the distributor (I don't blame you!) you may want to break the
    screws loose with a pair of locking pliers (vise-grips) to avoid stripping
    the heads. Those wires pull off the module, and that terminal nearest the
    front is *supposed* to be bent over a bit.
     
    Michael Pardee, Nov 1, 2004
    #15
  16. Phil

    lamont1 Guest

    i have a 90 distributor and a 92 distributor with the ignition coil and plug
    wires.
     
    lamont1, Nov 2, 2004
    #16
  17. Phil

    Chip Stein Guest

    and now the easy way.... pull the dist cap off. now find the wire on
    the ignitor that goes to the coil negative terminal and take it off.
    put a test light on the positive pole of the battery and connect the
    ground lead to the ignitor wire just removed. crank the engine, if it
    flashes the ignitor is good.
    all the ignitor does is make and break the ground on the primary
    side of the coil.
    i've been doing this for years, learned it at honda school.
    Chip
     
    Chip Stein, Nov 2, 2004
    #17
  18. Phil

    remcow Guest

    Cool trick - thanks, Chip!
    I'll have to remember that one for next time.

    With your honda experience, you should think about putting
    ins-and-outs like that on a site someplace - I am sure all back yard
    mechanics would appreciate it.

    Remco
     
    remcow, Nov 2, 2004
    #18
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