1991 civic won't start...

Discussion in 'Civic' started by djo, Jan 4, 2005.

  1. djo

    djo Guest

    the car turned back on me on NY's eve :(((
    here's the problem, i started it, and it just stopped aftert approx. 15
    seconds idling. after that, every attempt of starting it was useless. i
    inspected the sparkplugs, and apparently they are not getting fire. i'm not
    getting any error codes...

    distributor cap and wires are ok.
    could it be the ignition coil?
     
    djo, Jan 4, 2005
    #1
  2. djo

    Remco Guest

    After you check it the rotor is still spinning (to make sure your belt
    isn't broken), check your ignitor as that is a common Civic problem.
    There are many different posts out there on how to check it.
     
    Remco, Jan 4, 2005
    #2
  3. djo

    motsco_ _ Guest

    ---------------

    Does the rotor actually spin when the engine is cranked ?(it's driven by
    the timing belt) You won't get spark if the camshaft isn't rotating.

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_ _, Jan 4, 2005
    #3
  4. djo

    djo Guest

    yes, the rotor spins. i'm sure of that, 'cause i've seen it in one position
    when i disassembled distributor for the first time, and in different
    position after cranking and another distributor disassembly...

    i hope you'll understand what i was trying to say :)))

    my english is not all that well...
     
    djo, Jan 4, 2005
    #4
  5. djo

    Remco Guest

    Open up the distributor and first check to see if you have 12V coming
    to the coil.

    If so, check the primary and secondary of the coil. They are harder to
    check out of circuit because of the lower resistance on the primary
    (3-4 ohms) and higher resistance on the secondary (10K or so). The
    reading is also affected by temperature. Just make sure you don't see
    an open or infinite restance. Visually inspect your coil for 'arc
    throughs' - this is where the plastic has broken down and the coil is
    arcing to the distributor case - you'll note some discoloration on the
    plastic, if that is the case.

    You can check the ignitor by putting a small bulb (or an LED with a 470
    ohms in series, noting the polarity) across the coil's primary and
    starting the car. If your bulb flashes, your ignitor is good and the
    problem is within your coil, rotor, cap, wires, etc.
    If it doesn't flash, very often the ignitor is bad but it could also be
    whatever drives the ignitor.

    My money is on the ignitor, though, as that is a very common problem in
    Hondas. They are expensive but if you shop around, you can probably get
    them at a much lower price than at your dealership.
    Hope this helps.
    Remco
     
    Remco, Jan 4, 2005
    #5
  6. djo

    Jim Yanik Guest

    this site also has data and pix on the ignitor;
    http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/electrical/main-relay/main-relay.htm
     
    Jim Yanik, Jan 4, 2005
    #6
  7. djo

    djo Guest

    thanx...
     
    djo, Jan 5, 2005
    #7
  8. djo

    Joseph Wind Guest

    If it is not the main relay, it could be the solenoid inside the
    distributor, not the coil, but the other pack.
     
    Joseph Wind, Jan 5, 2005
    #8
  9. djo

    Remco Guest

    Is there a solenoid inside the distributor? There isn't on our integra
    but that's a 95 so maybe things are different on older cars.
    Or do you mean that assembly with four wires mounted on a plate? If so,
    that is the ignitor.
    Or do you mean that black unit sitting next to what looks like a cam?
    If so, that is a hall sensor pick up.
    Just making sure we don't confuse djo.
     
    Remco, Jan 5, 2005
    #9
  10. djo

    djo Guest

    thanx :)

    here's the deal... it's definitely not the ignitor. i had sam problems with
    the ignitor last year, and had changed original NEC ignitor with german
    aftermarket HUCO ignitor, or something like that... this original ignitor
    was not completely "dead", but it had some problems every now and then.
    today i tried to put it back in, instead of this HUCO, but nothing changed,
    so i'm guessing it's not the ignitor. when the engine is cranked, the rotor
    spins, so it's not that either. i can smell gas/petrol (by the way, is this
    US or UK newsgroup? :) ) in the exhaust, so the fuel pump&accessories must
    be in order too.

    the only thing left that could be wrong is the ignition coil. i tried to
    dissassemble the distributor, in order to pull out the ignition coil, but i
    messed up the head on one bolt :(((

    btw. can someone please explain how to disconnect those two jacks on the
    distributor?
    i managed to pull one out, but the other one just wont go...
     
    djo, Jan 5, 2005
    #10
  11. djo

    Jim Yanik Guest

    Is the coil separate from the distributor cap? Some Honda/Acura products
    are integrated coil/cap,IIRC.

    Ever think about buying a Haynes manual?
     
    Jim Yanik, Jan 5, 2005
    #11
  12. djo

    motsco_ _ Guest

    --------------------


    If you can smell gas, you're flooded. Your Owner's manual says that a
    flooded Honda has to be cranked with the pedal all the way to the floor
    for up to 15 seconds, and then it will start.

    Have you tried that one yet?

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_ _, Jan 5, 2005
    #12
  13. djo

    djo Guest

    no, will try. but still, i don't think that's the problem. i pulled out one
    of the spark-plugs, and tried cranking the engine (with body of the
    spark-plug grounded, of course), but there was no spark at the top of the
    spark-plug...

    so it's gotta be something with the ignition then...
     
    djo, Jan 6, 2005
    #13
  14. djo

    djo Guest

    unfortunately not :(
    the coil is right under the distibutor-cap. but i will have to dismantle the
    whole distibutor, if
    i want to take the coil out...
    couldn't find reasonable price for shipping to croatia :(
     
    djo, Jan 6, 2005
    #14
  15. djo

    bloodhound Guest

    i had the same problemon a 1990 civic at christmas. i changed the main
    relay, the distributor and the cap and rotor and that didnt fix it. as it
    turned out it was the injectors. they were not getting enough fuel. i
    changed trottle body and it now runs like a new car
     
    bloodhound, Jan 7, 2005
    #15
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