1993 Honda Accord LX Automatic - Brake pedal switch

Hi,

I have the following problems:

1. None of the 3 stop lights at the back comes on when I step on the
brakes.
2. The shift gear is locked in Park and cannot come out. I have to
insert the ignition key into "Shift Key Release" everytime to shift
out of Park.
3. When step on the brake pedal, there is no click sound that unlocks
the gear shifter.
4. Now and then (not always), the D4 light on the dash blinks. If I
drive the car with D4 light blinking, the car drives incredibly slow.

All fuses are fine.

After reading news groups, I thought the first 3 symptoms might be due
to a bad brake pedal switch. I cannot seem to locate the switch to
see if it works fine.

I am not sure about problem 4.

I would greatly appreciate any leads on how I can check the brake
pedal switch and address problem 4.

Thanks in advance,
Murali Varadachari

 

The brake pedal switch is literally on the brake pedal. Look for a button
mounted so that it is pressed in by the brake pedal bar when the pedal is up
and opens when the pedal is pushed. Either the switch has come loose and
not longer engages the pedal, or the return spring on your pedal is fatigued
and the pedal never actually comes all the way back up any more.

Hondas use the D4 light to signal automatic transmission problems. When the
light is on, the transmission is going into a fail-safe mode, most likely
locked into 2nd gear. On some of them there is a way to make the D4 light
flash out a trouble code. I don't know if yours is one of them, but it
probably is.

 

The brake pedal switch is literally on the brake pedal. Look for a button
mounted so that it is pressed in by the brake pedal bar when the pedal is up
and opens when the pedal is pushed. Either the switch has come loose and
not longer engages the pedal, or the return spring on your pedal is fatigued
and the pedal never actually comes all the way back up any more.

Hondas use the D4 light to signal automatic transmission problems. When the
light is on, the transmission is going into a fail-safe mode, most likely
locked into 2nd gear. On some of them there is a way to make the D4 light
flash out a trouble code. I don't know if yours is one of them, but it
probably is.

 

I just had a bad brake light switch replaced in my Honda this week at
the dealer under warrantee and definitely the first three symptoms are
what I had. Would you believe it happened right after I parked in
front of the service dept to have some other warrantee work done and
the rep came back to me to ask if I knew about why the car wouldn't
shift and I said no. He said this is the right time/place to have it
happen. Anyway, I think the switch is located up at the top of the
brake pedal stem on the front side (I'm not 100% sure of this as I
recall seeing it on a small sketch).

As to the fourth symptom, I think I recall reading either in this
newsgroup or a reference web site from this newsgroup that that might
have to do with the transmission.

 

I just had a bad brake light switch replaced in my Honda this week at
the dealer under warrantee and definitely the first three symptoms are
what I had. Would you believe it happened right after I parked in
front of the service dept to have some other warrantee work done and
the rep came back to me to ask if I knew about why the car wouldn't
shift and I said no. He said this is the right time/place to have it
happen. Anyway, I think the switch is located up at the top of the
brake pedal stem on the front side (I'm not 100% sure of this as I
recall seeing it on a small sketch).

As to the fourth symptom, I think I recall reading either in this
newsgroup or a reference web site from this newsgroup that that might
have to do with the transmission.

 

All:
Thanks for your responses.
I am just going to take my car to the dealer.
Murali

 

All:
Thanks for your responses.
I am just going to take my car to the dealer.
Murali

 

Hi,

I took the car to the dealer who wanted $178 (switch was $64 and labor
$114). I decided to look in a car in the junkyard. Got the switch
for $10. It took literally 10 minutes to get it off the junk car and
put it in my car.

Regards,
Murali

 

Hi,

I took the car to the dealer who wanted $178 (switch was $64 and labor
$114). I decided to look in a car in the junkyard. Got the switch
for $10. It took literally 10 minutes to get it off the junk car and
put it in my car.

Regards,
Murali

 

Good on you. You show the dealer who's boss ;-). I had my alternator
fail, and the automotive electrician wanted $400 to fit a
reconditioned one. I then went to my local dealership, and they wanted
$300! I then went to the wreckers and got a new alternator for $50. I
ended up fitting it myself.

 

Good on you. You show the dealer who's boss ;-). I had my alternator
fail, and the automotive electrician wanted $400 to fit a
reconditioned one. I then went to my local dealership, and they wanted
$300! I then went to the wreckers and got a new alternator for $50. I
ended up fitting it myself.

 

Hmmm - I had the first three symptoms as well along with no cruise control.
I replaced the switch with a new one and the symptoms persisted. Does
anyone know of anything else that might resolve this ?? Thanks.

 

Likely, the bulbs shorted out in the taillights, which shorted out the cruise and
maybe other systems. I'd check the fuse and bulb sockets first.