1993 Honda Civic clutch foot pedal has little pressor

Discussion in 'Civic' started by mopa, Sep 6, 2005.

  1. mopa

    mopa Guest

    Hey everyone,

    I had some problems in the past with my car, and all of you great
    people on the board were able to help me. Unfortunately, today when I
    tried to drive my car (its been sitting in the parking lot for 3 days)
    when I started the car I noticed that the foot clutch had absolutely no
    pressor. I tried to put the car into first gear, and because of the
    lack of pressor it wouldn't let me.

    I heard of a clutch going bad, or scraping when changing gears, but I
    never seen or heard of this happening. I pumped on the clutch pedal
    like 20 times and managed to get some pressor in it so I could go to
    work today. As I was driving back home I had problems changing gears
    again and pumped on the clutch pedal a bunch of times, and it seemed to
    work. Does anyone know what maybe causing this problem?

    I just started a new job being fulltime, and now started college also
    being full time. I don't have any money to get a new car, otherwise I
    would. I cannot afford to take off work or miss any school. Please help
    me. :O)

    Thanks so much for your time, and help.

    Johnny
     
    mopa, Sep 6, 2005
    #1
  2. mopa

    TeGGeR® Guest


    Clutch master cylinder seals are bad.

    Rebuild/replace. Easy job.
     
    TeGGeR®, Sep 6, 2005
    #2
  3. mopa

    mopa Guest

    is this something I could do? I'm pretty good at doing just about
    everything. I just need to know what I need, and where the master
    cylinder seals are located.

    Thank you Tegger!
     
    mopa, Sep 6, 2005
    #3
  4. mopa

    TeGGeR® Guest


    I haven't got a clutch MC replacement page, but the brake MC is pretty
    close to that.

    The differences are that the clutch MC has only a single circuit, has no
    booster, and the line to the slave is short. Bleeding is a LOT easier.

    The seals are very, very similar to the brake MC seals (but only one
    circuit).

    Hope it helps.
     
    TeGGeR®, Sep 7, 2005
    #4
  5. mopa

    mopa Guest

    Thanks tegger.

    I'm going to have this guy at the shop replace the clutch master
    cylinder, and the clutch slave cylinder. This should do the job right?

    I just gotta get thing fixed. I am driving back and forth at work, and
    then school, and cannot lose any days off at work or school. I'm a
    freshman, so I don't want to miss anyways.

    Today while I was driving on the expressway here in Atlanta during rush
    hour. I got scared because I'm driving 80mph, and then have to jump
    down to 30 and throw myself into 3rd shift. I had a hard time changing
    gears as the pedal didn't want to allow me to shift into 3rd gear. I
    had to put my foot under the pedal, and raise it up, and then slowly
    pump on it, and then it managed to get enough pressor to get me back to
    2, 3, and later 4th. This is a serious pain in the ass way to drive,
    and I must say very dangerous too.

    How long before I will not be able to pump the clutch pedal, and when
    will I lose complete pressor? Sadly. I have to wait 2/3 days before I
    can get this fixed.

    Thanks again.
    John
     
    mopa, Sep 7, 2005
    #5
  6. mopa

    TeGGeR® Guest


    That'll do it. If the MC is worn, the slave is likely not far behind, so
    you're killing two birds with one stone, a good idea.



    Maintenance is always an excellent idea. And sometimes skimping on repairs
    can be false economy.


    It'll take a few days or weeks, depending.


    You're welcome.
     
    TeGGeR®, Sep 7, 2005
    #6
  7. mopa

    jim beam Guest

    first thing to do is check the fluid level. it's common for these
    things to leak, and once the line is airlocked, you get the symptoms you
    describe.

    suggest that while you're waiting for parts, you refill the reservoir,
    bleed the slave and make sure you keep it topped up. you can drive a
    car like this for some time before the leak gets so bad it won't work at
    all.

    and in emergency, you can get away wihout the clutch for all gear shifts
    except pulling away from standstill. just get the revs right and hold
    the stick against the gear slot you want. it'll drop in as soon as it
    meshes. do /not/ make a habit of this or force it - for hopefully
    obvious reasons.
     
    jim beam, Sep 7, 2005
    #7
  8. mopa

    mopa Guest

    Hello Jim,

    Thank you so very much for your help. I was wondering though where is
    this reservoir located on the car so I can make sure it is filled up.
    But, what do I fill it up with? dot4?

    Basically its like this. When I walk into my car the clutch pedal is on
    the floor. I then start up the car, and slowly pump on the clutch pedal
    about 10 times, and then there is enough pressor for the clutch padal
    to allow me to engage in changing gears. The wierd thing is that the
    car was working perferly fine. No problems with the clutch or the
    pedal. I parked the car for 3 days, and came back and seen the clutch
    had no pressor. Something just seems weird.

    Thank you.
     
    mopa, Sep 7, 2005
    #8
  9. mopa

    TeGGeR® Guest


    Does the Master Cylinder level ever drop over time? This is a *critical*
    question! It makes ALL the difference! I've asked it before and received no
    answer.

    By the way, it's spelled "pressure", not "pressor".
     
    TeGGeR®, Sep 7, 2005
    #9
  10. mopa

    TeGGeR® Guest


    It's on the driver's side of the engine compartment, close to the firewall.
    It has a short rubber hose leading to the cylinder itself.

    Do not confuse it with the BRAKE Master Cylinder reservoir , which is
    mounted directly on its Master Cylinder body, and has a great big black
    cake-pan sort of thing behind it.

    Ordinary DOT3/4 brake fluid is fine.
     
    TeGGeR®, Sep 7, 2005
    #10
  11. mopa

    mopa Guest

    Thanks Tegger

    I got confused with pressure, and pressor. as with "Master Cylinder
    level ever drop over time?"I am not quite sure what you mean by does
    the level ever drop over time.

    As for brake fluid the only place I put some is as whats located in
    this picture:

    http://home.iae.nl/users/fhoutert/images/Underhood_1.6i.v-tec_1.JPG

    If you look at the very top right corner (drivers side) there is the
    white brake fluid holder with the grey cap. I would think this is the
    BRAKE Master Cylinder reservoir, right?

    The firewall is what faces againest the dash board correct? and where
    does this cylinder sit with the rubber hose? is there a place I can
    pour fluid into it?

    Thanks for your help, and please excuse my ignorance for this matter.
    I'm trying my very best to learn as much as possible, so I can help fix
    my car, and help anyone else.

    Thank you!
    Johnny
     
    mopa, Sep 7, 2005
    #11
  12. mopa

    TeGGeR® Guest


    "Does the amount of fluid in the reservoir go down as the days pass on the
    calendar?" That's what I mean.

    By "go down" I mean the sort of phenomenon experienced as you consume a
    drink in a glass. Eventually the level goes down so that there is no more
    drink in the glass and you need to go to the fridge and get more.



    Bad pic. Great big strut bar impairs the view.

    Also, judging by the riot of aftermarket gingerbread dressing up this
    scene, I'd say there's a chance the clutch master cylinder has been
    relocated out of view.

    You have a '93, do you? Then you should see more like this:
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/Honda_Civic1992-1995_%20clutch_hyd.pdf

    (all on one line)


    Yes.

    The "firewall" is the enormous steel sheet that sits between you and the
    engine. Many cables and wires pass through this on their way from you to
    the engine, and it's decorated with parts bolted to it (such as the big
    black round cake-pan called the brake booster"). Some cultures refer to
    this as the "bulkhead".

    If you're unfamiliar with this term, you need to go to the library and get
    some very basic books on cars.


    Check out that PDF.
     
    TeGGeR®, Sep 7, 2005
    #12
  13. mopa

    TeGGeR® Guest


    After palavering with this fellow some more, I'm starting to think your
    hunch may be right on.

    If he cannot find the clutch master cylinder at all, there's a good chance
    it's completely empty, having probably been ignored for years.
     
    TeGGeR®, Sep 7, 2005
    #13
  14. mopa

    mopa Guest

    Thank you for the Diagram Tegger. I just looked and it and now get the
    whole picture. Without any visual graphics, then I can be completely
    clueless.

    I just checked the reservoir thats connected to the clutch master
    cylinder and realized that it was barebone dryed. There wasn't a single
    drop of any DOT4 in that thing. I just poured some into the reservoir,
    and pumped on the pedal about 25 times to see if it would get some
    "pressure" and it seems to be a little tighter.

    I doubt the reservoir has been capped off anytime lately. This is only
    my 2nd car I have been driving, and only have been driving for 4 years.
    Any help is greatly apprecitated.

    I don't really know what products on a car need to be replaced year
    after year. The lady who I bought this car from in June 2004 probably
    didn't change much. When I bought it was just sitting in her driveway,
    because she didn't want to spend money on a new timing belt, because
    her husband and her just bought a new dodge durango.

    Thanks
     
    mopa, Sep 7, 2005
    #14
  15. mopa

    TeGGeR® Guest


    I figured pictures were needed. Sometimes that's the best.


    You need to bleed it. There is air in there that will prevent the pedal
    from feeling proper.

    Also, there is a good chance the master cylinder seals are bad and it won't
    hold pressure anyway. Those seals are meant to be lubricated with fluid.
    Runnng them dry will chew them up very quickly.

    And you should study the slave cylinder (follow the steel line back from
    the MC to find the slave). That missing fluid went somewhere. You may need
    to replace that, too.

    Check under the dash in front of the clutch pedal for wetness and fluid
    staining to see if it's been escaping out the back of the MC.



    You might as well consider this your "learning" vehicle. the one you'll
    make all your mistakes on.

    If you want tips on bleeding, post back here. Somebody will help.

    Good luck.
     
    TeGGeR®, Sep 7, 2005
    #15
  16. mopa

    mopa Guest

    Hi Tegger,

    I just checked for leakage, and it doesn't seem there was any fluid
    leaking out of the mc. There is enough grease on the end side of the mc
    by the pedal, so it all seems to be fine. All I can think of is maybe
    the fluid on the MC was never filled back up, and it damaged the seals
    on the MC.

    AutoZone just received my parts, so I'm going try and have this guy
    install them tomorrow, but for the time being, I'll just keep pumping
    on the clutch pedal.

    I don't see anywhere that its possible to bleed the mc though.

    Thanks again for your help. You've been so very helpful.
    The labor will be about $80.00 the guy said, just for future reference
    for others who may have to have someone else do it.

    Respectfully,
    Johnny
     
    mopa, Sep 7, 2005
    #16
  17. mopa

    jim beam Guest

    you don't bleed the master, you beed the slave - down at the gearbox
    end. just open the bleed nipple & let the air come out. keep the fluid
    reservoir topped up while you do this. wash any spillage with plenty of
    water - never wipe.

    btw, honda recommend dot3, not dot4. some dot4's have been problematic
    with seals after they've been used with dot3, the factory fill.
     
    jim beam, Sep 7, 2005
    #17
  18. mopa

    mopa Guest

    Thanks Jim. Darn, and I had just bought the good synthetic dot4
     
    mopa, Sep 8, 2005
    #18
  19. mopa

    TeGGeR® Guest


    Synthetic is DOT5.
     
    TeGGeR®, Sep 8, 2005
    #19
  20. mopa

    jim beam Guest

    silicone is dot5.

    dot3 & dot4 are glycol-ethers.
     
    jim beam, Sep 8, 2005
    #20
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