1994 Honda Civic won't start

Hi,

My 94 Honda Civic EX automatic will not start. It has plenty of battery
juice, and turns over, just no ignition. Any recommendations? I'd like to
try to fix this without going into a shop.

Related info:
It's very humid, rainy.
This happened a once couple months ago, and seemed to resolv itself w/o
repair.

Thanks.

 

Are you getting spark?
Usually ignition problems that show up when it is humid or raining are
related to your cap, rotor and wires.
If it has been a while since they've been replaced, replace them. Use
original Honda components - they are a little more expensive, but do
tend to be better and last longer than aftermarket.

You if you are not getting any kind of spark, it could also be your
ignitor. This is an electronic component inside your distributor and
commonly fails on Hondas.
Here's some really good info on it:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#badigniter

Hope you'll fix it soon.
Remco

 

Looks like you are located in Waltham, Massachusetts. If it
rainy and freezing I'd make sure the distributor seal is in
perfect condition to keep the moisture out. Use dielectric grease
to seal the ends of the plug wires.

In this image distributor seal is part #10

http://www.slhondaparts.com/images/PCI/13SR40/017/6.jpg

 

I agree about the moisture, particularly affecting the distributor cap.

I'd start with replacing the cap (the part costs about $20). Still no start,
then change the plugs ($10-$20). Then the wires ($50-$75). Then the rotor
($15?).

If you have a voltmeter, you should be able to check the resistance of the
wires.

Alternatively, post the age (in years and miles of each of the above), and
people can comment further.

Agreed. A new ignitor will run about $100.

Buy OEM everything.

 

=====================================

Hutchtoo,

Don't go off pursuing any untamed ornithoids. (wild goose chase).
Electronic components don't fail overnight. Spark plugs don't get fouled
overnight. We had the same problem on our Odyssey. One morning it just
wouldn't start. Spun good, but no start. If I had realized that one of
my injectors had simply dripped a load of fuel into the engine
overnight, I would have opened the Owner's Manual and found the part
about how to start a 'flooded engine'.

Hold the pedal to the floor crank the starter for up to fifteen seconds.
When it starts to run, back off the pedal. It may blow a bit of smoke.
Run a tank of Gasohol or a bottle of injector cleaner thru it.

'Curly'

 

It could also be a bad main relay.
http://www.marklamond.co.uk/howto/electrical/main-relay/main-relay.htm

tegger.com is also a great Honda/Acura info database.

 

Thanks all, this is great info.

I'll definitely try the 15-second test before replacing the distributor
parts.

I got this car in Nov 1994 and suspect most of these parts are nearly
that old -- other than the plugs.

Any recommendations on sources for original Honda parts? I prefer go to
local shops like Lappens and NAPA, which mostly sell 3d party parts
like Beck Arnley distributor parts.

Thanks again.

 

It could also be a bad main relay.

Good to know. Though both times this happened with a cold start (albeit
in warm humid weather). Distributor assy seems to be the top suspect
based on most of the feedback....

 

If you end up replacing ignition components, replace them with OEM
Honda: using aftermarket is just asking for trouble.

 

Are you in a hurry?

If not, I recommend www.slhonda.com (in California). Great drawings to find
your parts. All OEM. Good service, based on my one order from them so far.
Your parts should arrive within ten days or even a week.

It's been reported here that some dealers (parts dept.) will give you
www.slhonda.com's prices if you come to them with a printout of prices from
slhonda.

Also, Curly's point is a good one, by the way, AFAIC. On the other hand, the
distributor, wire, and plug parts mentioned earlier all have to be changed
out every few years anyway, so it's not like you're throwing money away.
(Some folks are saying OEM Honda wires last a really long time, though... )

 

<snip>


How conclusive is this test? I've heard varying opinions.

Greg.

 

(I don't know how technical you are - please pardon anything here
that's blatantly obvious to you.)

Have you checked for moisture in the distributor cap? That's the
classic rainy-day ignition problem. (It's even been immortalized in
song, by Ed's Redeeming Qualities: "And if your car won't start in
the rain / New distributor cap".) Easy to check - label the plug
wires (so you can be sure to put them back correctly!) and disconnect
them from the distributor, remove the cap, and wipe the inside with a
tissue or something similar to see if there's moisture inside. Cheap
to fix, if it's just the cap - you can get a replacement cap and
rotor for many cars from places like Carquest for under $20. (I don't
know how much a '94 Civic's is, but it doesn't seem like something
that'd be unusually expensive.)

My '93 Civic EX (manual) had that problem, and also occasional
stalling. Initially thought it was the alternator because when the
car would start, alternator output often would be fine initially but
then drop.

Turned out that the ignition switch was bad, and some of the contacts
were failing intermittently. Moisture seemed to aggravate the
problem. Unfortunately, I didn't manage to diagnose this one
myself - it was my shop that finally tracked it down, after I'd
looked at the alternator and various other things - so I'm not sure
what the best way to test for it would be. If removing the switch
isn't difficult, I'd probably try checking it with an ohm meter for
a reliable connection between the appropriate points at the various
key positions.

 

If you mean that a wire whose resistance is in spec is not necessarily fine,
then I agree. But if the resistance is way high, the spark at the plug will
be inadequate, and this may be the cause of the no start. (Note: I am going
on the assumption people have all-in-one electric meter gadgets that include
both a voltmeter and ohmmeter, among other testing features. I just called
these gadgets "voltmeters" for short.)

Ways to check plug wires are discussed a lot on the web. Google for {plugs
wires resistance check}, and see for example:

http://www.inct.net/~autotips/plugwire.htm

http://www.ehow.com/how_16427_replace-spark-plug.html (see the tips on wire
testing at the bottom)

http://ca.autos.yahoo.com/maintain/answer.php?ignition_system2.html

 

Actually, distributor cap and wires are both equally likely suspects.
Moisture/insulation breakdown/cracks will all leak voltage to ground on wet
days.

This is the sort of thing regular maintenance prevents 100%.

And use OEM. Forget the aftermarket shit. It's false economy.

 

A symptom of a bad MR.(not humidity,though)
even just whacking the MR can temporarily 'fix' it and get your car
started.Lose fuel pressure and your car will not start,and you can crank
until the battery is dead.

Yes,but it's very easy to resolder the main relay and *eliminate* it as a
source of trouble.Much easier than messing with the distributor.

I note the others have you swapping parts right off the start.
Parts cost money.

 

You mean me? You're right.

I forgot the most obvious method of temporarily fixing a moisture problem:
Wipe off the rotor and the inside of the distributor cap, wipe off all the
plug wires. Spray wires with WD-40 (don't wipe WD-40 off). Reinstall. If it
still won't start, then it's something else.

 

Not just you,and no offense meant to any of you.

The Honda main relay is such a common,frequent problem,and she DID say WARM
along with humid,and beginning with a cold start;sounded just like the MR
problem. It's a problem easily eliminated without new parts,IF one has the
tools and skillset.

I think you folks saw the words 'humid' and 'ignition'(which I took to
meaning "not firing up",or starting),and put together -ignition problems-
(no spark),which IMO,are a bit less common than the relay problem.

I also think that if it were ignition problems,the 'starting' would be a
bit rough,like misfiring,where she said it just cranked and didn't start.

I still could be wrong,and you folks could be right,though.

I just read it a little differently.

 

Easy to solder, but not easy to remove it from inside the dash.

 

The OP's problem is due to moisture from his climate change. Leaky
injectors would leak wet or dry, no?

The OP should check for sparks and observe the smoke from the
tailpipe to fill us in to real nature of the problem.

 

The genuine distributor cap seal is about a dollar and last much longer.
Napa probably sell an aftermarket one for $3. Only replace it when the
seal feels stiff, cracking or flattened. Dielectric grease is about $3 to $5
at Napa. A rag to wipe out the moisture is free. Wipe everything from
coil to the spark plugs. WD-40 will also absorb the moisture.

Remove the spark plug wire from the socket and apply a small amount of
dielectric tune up grease to the insulator, apply some to the distributor
cap where there are gaps.

Use your finger to spread the dielectric grease around the ceramic
portion of the spark plug to help maintain a dry environment for the
plugs. If you need help go here.

http://www.techguys.ca/howto/spark_plugs.html

For the paranoid, spray a silicone film on the plug wires and cap to further
insulate from moisture.