1994 Honda Civic won't start

Discussion in 'Civic' started by hutchtoo, Aug 29, 2005.

  1. hutchtoo

    TeGGeR® Guest

    It is if you remove the knee bolster.
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html
     
    TeGGeR®, Aug 30, 2005
    #21
  2. hutchtoo

    hutchtoo Guest

    That's the problem. Not too hard to find but really tough to extract. I'm
    going to have to go spend at least $20+ on wrench extensions to get this
    thing out...
     
    hutchtoo, Aug 30, 2005
    #22
  3. hutchtoo

    hutchtoo Guest

    Even with the bolster out, in the 94 civic there are other parts that
    prevent me from using my normal wrench. The main relay (I assume this is it,
    looks like the pictures on the page above) is to the left of the fusebox,
    wedged up against the left above the hood latch in a tight spot.
     
    hutchtoo, Aug 30, 2005
    #23
  4. hutchtoo

    Remco Guest

    When I saw the words humid and ignition, I asked if he had spark or
    even a weak one. Usually my answers go like "does it do this?", "If so,
    check this..".

    Since he then asked about OEM vs aftermarket parts, it was my (and
    probably everyone's) conclusion that he lost spark.

    Humidity is actually a fairly common cause of a no-start. He could have
    easily have a cracked cap. Replacing this components periodically,
    especially if they've never been replaced, is just good maintenance.

    To just swap parts is expensive but I don't think that was suggested.

    Remco
     
    Remco, Aug 30, 2005
    #24
  5. hutchtoo

    Randolph Guest

    There is a trick to it; Don't try to unbolt the relay. Rather, pull the
    guts out of it while the housing is still in place. Then you can
    resolder and re-install, or you can put the guts from a new replacement
    relay into the old housing.
     
    Randolph, Aug 30, 2005
    #25
  6. hutchtoo

    Jim Yanik Guest

    Not a total,crank-to-death no-cylinder-firing no-start,but a
    stumbling,erratic misfiring no-start.I didn't get that from his post.
     
    Jim Yanik, Aug 30, 2005
    #26
  7. hutchtoo

    Jim Yanik Guest

    Here he gives a slightly better description;"spun good",but no start.
    He didn't mention any misfiring like one would get if there were leaking
    spark impulses.

    "spun good" but not starting is a typical failed MR indicator.
    Says who? the OP didn't give any indication of leaking HV like misfiring or
    stumbling,only "no start" which doesn't describe anything.
    Smoke would indicate that some cylinders were igniting,at least part of the
    time,and there would be misfiring and stumbling in trying to start it.
     
    Jim Yanik, Aug 30, 2005
    #27
  8. hutchtoo

    TeGGeR® Guest



    Can anyone send me a photo of a relay that's in that location? I'd like to
    add it to the relevant FAQ page to complement the pics that are there now.
     
    TeGGeR®, Aug 30, 2005
    #28
  9. hutchtoo

    hutchtoo Guest

    Can anyone send me a photo of a relay that's in that location? I'd like to
    Tegger, I emailed you a photo from my 94 civic. Let me know if you need a
    re-send.
     
    hutchtoo, Aug 31, 2005
    #29
  10. hutchtoo

    Pin Geek Guest

    It could be the fuel pump. My '90 Accord did the same exact thing a couple
    years ago.

    Josh
    http://www.pingeek.com pinball stuff
     
    Pin Geek, Aug 31, 2005
    #30
  11. hutchtoo

    B Squareman Guest

    The OP hinted that "It's very humid, rainy." The OP crank but won't
    start in this condition. A leaking HV from the coil straight to
    ground via moisture (and never making it to the plug wires) will crank
    but not sputter. And yes, if it's leaking from a spark plug wire or two, it will
    stumble/misfire. We shouldn't be too adamant about one scenario.
     
    B Squareman, Aug 31, 2005
    #31
  12. hutchtoo

    hutchtoo Guest

    The problem is fixed. After finding the ignition coil was bad, but after
    having subjected the rotor and assembly to lots of abuse removing the seized
    rotor screw, I decided to replace the entire distributor.

    Against some people's advice, I've purchased a $185 non-OEM distributor
    (plus new cap and rotor) at the AutoZone down the street. I made this
    cost/convenience decision based on my short time horizon for this car and
    low mileage. The new distrbutor fixed the problem. If it fails in the future
    I will send an update.

    Thanks again to everyone for all the feedback.
     
    hutchtoo, Sep 4, 2005
    #32
  13. hutchtoo

    Elle Guest

    Congratulations! Did the non-OEM distributor include a new coil and new
    ignitor?

    Thanks for the update, and way to hang in there. :)
     
    Elle, Sep 4, 2005
    #33
  14. hutchtoo

    hutchtoo Guest

    Congratulations! Did the non-OEM distributor include a new coil and new
    Yes, it included both a coil and ignitor, and has a lifetime guarantee. It
    did not include a rotor or cap.

    I should also put a good word in for AutoZone. Those guys were a big help
    getting the seized rotor screw out.
     
    hutchtoo, Sep 5, 2005
    #34
  15. hutchtoo

    Elle Guest

    Wow. For $180, even if it dies in say, six months, that's worth it.
    I toast AZ. :)
     
    Elle, Sep 5, 2005
    #35
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