1995 Odyssey- Heater Valve

Discussion in 'Odyssey' started by Larry B, Mar 1, 2006.

  1. Larry B

    Larry B Guest

    The heater valve does not fully close from the dash lever and constanly lets
    warm air through. I had the heater cable replaced but it made no difference.
    In the winter, it isn't such a bad thing, but not so in the summer months.
    If I go under the hood I can manually complete the additional 1 or 2 degrees
    of turning on the valve actuator to get it to fully close.

    Is there some kind of adjustment or modification that I can make to get the
    cable to fully close the valve?? Thanks, Lar
     
    Larry B, Mar 1, 2006
    #1
  2. ---------------------------

    That's gotta be the #1 complaint on '95, '96' '97 and '98. I thought a
    guy could mount a return spring on the valve to help it go the extra few
    degrees, but it might slowly go shut when you wanted it open . :-(
    You can adjust the length of the cable at the valve end, but the first
    time you punch the accelerator, it comes out of adjustment. Seems the
    cable is too short.

    There's lots of discussion at odyclub.com (search), but not many
    concrete solutions.

    'Curly'
     
    'Curly Q. Links', Mar 1, 2006
    #2
  3. Larry B

    ricebike Guest

    ditto w/ some other honda models as well... @ www.honda-tech.com
     
    ricebike, Mar 1, 2006
    #3
  4. Larry B

    Larry B Guest

    Nice to have company.....NOT!! The first gen Ody has been a great car
    (with this and a recent inexplicable door leak as exceptions).

    I was thinking of cutting the wire and using a small bolt with 2 washers, a
    lock washer and a nut to clamp it back together, just slightly extended. A
    soldered or crimped extension would not hold or could distort the wire. I
    would say that it only needs to be 1/16 to 1/8" longer.

    Lar
     
    Larry B, Mar 1, 2006
    #4
  5. Larry B

    SoCalMike Guest

    that would probably involve finding out where the housing is
    attached/clamped to, and pulling it back (through the clamp) enough to
    take the slack from the inner cable...

    or something to that effect.
     
    SoCalMike, Mar 2, 2006
    #5
  6. ----------------------

    Problem it's pushing at an oblique angle when it gets to the last little
    bit of it's push. Maybe a spring could be placed so it would hold it
    tight while open, and when closed . You can figure out what's wrong with
    my e-mail address and we'll talk. I'll send you a drawing . . . .

    Curly remove the under__scores.
     
    'Curly Q. Links', Mar 2, 2006
    #6
  7. Larry B

    Larry B Guest

    The service manual (p22-47) indicates that the adjustment for this is a
    clip. Well, what the manual was apparently calling "an adjustment" was the
    spring clip that secures the cable to bracket that also holds the heater
    control valve. This bracket keeps a set relationship between the cable
    housing and the valve but moving the cable housing does nothing to change
    the "throw" of the cable itself. Some adjustment!

    What I ended up doing was this... The cable terminates in a little spool of
    cable with cable bent right at the spool to evenly distribute the cable's
    pushing force without unraveling the spool. Kind of like this....

    -------------------O

    I used needle nose pliers to unravel the spool a little (clockwise) which
    in effect lengthens the cable a bit. Most importantly, I got rid of the old
    bend and made a new one just a little further down the cable (maybe 3/32")
    where the new spool starts. I wasn't sure how brittle the cable would be as
    cables are usually made of spring steel but I had no problems. With the
    cable now just a little longer, the heater lever now fully closes the heater
    control valve and I no longer have heat coming out of the vents when the
    heater lever is set all the way to the left (cool).

    I hope that this helps somebody else.

    Lar
     
    Larry B, Apr 15, 2006
    #7
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