1996 Civic Check Engine Light

The Check Engine light came on and it stays on while driving on a
highway two days ago. The car was running fine except in the past 2-3
months in which I had some repairs on it.

1996 Civic, 4DR LX, 239K km
The radiator, fuel line and brakes lines have been replaced 2 months
ago
Distributor and wires were changed less than a month ago.
Most recent oil change was done 2 weeks ago.

Reading from this forum I have got an idea that I should get the code
read and reset and wait if it comes again. Manual says its related to
emission control system.

The car is excellent on gas mileage but recently I have noticed a lack
of power (pressing gas more to get speed).

Any idea will be good. Thanks.

 

You need to take it so that the codes can be read. Autozone and other
stores do this for free.

Jeff

 

I forgot to mention that I am in Ontario, Canada. Is there any store
like Autozone who does it for free. Googling did not show much.

 

Call some of your local auto parts stores and ask them if they can read
codes. Don't reset the code until you have diagnosed the problem since you
have drivability problems.
No parts stores check with local service shops on the cost to read it for
you.

 

PartSource.

 

Thanks!!
I will talk to my nearest mechanic tomorrow (Monday) if he does it for
free (there is a possibility that he will do it). If not, I will call
PartSource. There seems to be two partsource in my city, nice!

 

On newer models there are as many as 200
causes of check-engine on newer models.
Probably a couple dozen on 1990s models.
Could be anything from a new $15 gas cap
to a couple hndred dollar engine sensor
replacement.

In my state you cant pass the emission tests and get
your new license plate stickers with the yellow light on.

 

Okay, so here is the code:

P0420: Catalytic converter efficiency low on Bank 1.

The mechanic then checked on some website he subscribes to and fond
that it could be anything from O2 sensor to catalytic converter
and ....few more.
I left the car with him to do some specific diagnostics, that he said,
needs to be done to narrow down the exact cause.

 

Copying from Tegger's reply to another post :

*********************
Might not even be the cat, but instead poor connections inside the
igniter
in the distributor.

Believe it or not.

Visit your local Honda dealer and ask them to look up TSB 05-027.
*********************

Could this be applied to my 1996 civic, LX?

 

Another update:

My mechanic says I need to replace the catalytic converter costing
around 300 dollars. The code as been reset and I have left with an
option to change the converter at a suitable time (money wise). And he
did all these for free!

 

Treat him well as you found one of the few.....

 

get the code read, then report back.

 

I already posted this, but you somehow overseen it. Here is the code
again:

P0420: Catalytic converter efficiency low on Bank 1.

 

P0420: Catalytic converter efficiency low on Bank 1.

So, the code was reset two days ago and it re-appears today. Thanks.
Last time, as I have mentioned, the mechanic said I have to replace
the catalytic converter. Any thought on this?

Thanks

 

A 4cyl. Civic isn't going to have a Bank 2.

I'd want somebody to do an exhaust emissions check before I spent big bucks
on a new cat.It could just be a bad O2 sensor.O2sensors get sluggish when
they get old. But they are much less costly than a new cat.

 

May simply be poor connections at the igniter. Believe it or not.

Check that before replacing the cat.

 

Ignition connectors are reconnected and tightned as per my request.
The code was reset and it came back again in 2-3 hours after the car
was driven for sometime to make the engine warm. The mechanic said he
checked both O2 sensors and the second one (after the Converter) shows
fluctuation on the readinds meaning that the cat converter is not
functioning efficiently. Ideally the the readings from the second O2
sensor should stabilized after sometime. (this is what he said).

Thanks for all the comments.

 

Looks like your cat is in fact no longer good. Replace it. Happens all the
time.

With legislated emissions limits at incredibly low levels, cats these days
are operating close to their limits. A cat that would have been deemed in
fine shape in 1990 is considered junk now.

 

Original problem: Check Engine Light came on
Secondary problem: Engine was vibrating when put on drive but resting.
Problem might have been resolved!!

I think I should thank Tegger for his key comment that helped me
solving the Check Engine light problem. Tegger mentioned that it is
related to ignition and since I noticed this problem after replacing
the distributor caps and the wires, there was a high probability that
it is related to ignition.

I tried to convince my mechanic saying about the this group and also
mentioned that one experienced guy (Tegger!) suggested to check all
the ignition connections. In the mean time, I noticed another problem
which, to my mechanic, looked like a "misfire" (I dont know what it
is). He then spent about an hour on my car after connecting the engine
to his "Scope" and tested rigorously but did NOT find any proof of
misfire.

He then put a new set of distributor cap and wires and again tested
for about half an hour. By this time he reset the Check Engine Light.

Now that I am driving it without any trouble and the light did not
came on again! Seems like the problem is solved!!!!

Thanks to Tegger for his comment that lead to the solution. Thanks
are due to my mechanic (who spent about 3 hours on my car in total
without charging me a single dollar). And he is the one who I was able
to talk to regarding my thoughts (which obviously came from this
group) and he gladly considered my opinions. This is kind of unusual
for a person with 30 years of experience! Seems like learning has no
limit.

I put all this information here so that others might get benefited.

 

Thanks for the credit, but I'm a bit confused...

So then there wasn't anything wrong with the /igniter/ connections, but
problems with /other/ ignition componentry?