1997 Accord SE Auto Trans problem

Well, it's more of a nuisance really. It seems that most of the time, when I
let go of the gas to let the car slow down a bit (usually in the 20-40kph or
12-25mph area) for what ever reason and then give it gas to get it going
again, it sounds like it's about to down shift (the revs go way up) but all
it really does is disengage and re-engage to the same gear. Does anyone
understand what I'm talking about and does it sound like it's
fixable/adjustable?

Thanks.

--Bruce

 

Change your fluid (with honda atf) and check the adjustment of the throttle
pressure cable.

 

I guess you are referring to when you slow down considerably,but not come to
a complete stop.You attempt to accelerate and it takes a second or two for
the revs to come back up?If so,I noticed the same problem(well,assumed
problem)I called a service manager here in Halifax and he told me that was
normal....a part of the Grade logic technology....something like slowing
down to almost a complete stop and attempting to accelerate in second
gear,if you were running a manual transmission.
Let me know if this sounds like what you are experiencing.

 

Just to let you know. I signed up with AutoForumz. This is Bruce. My
previous post was taken from the newsgroup.

Well, I'll see if I can describe another situation just to see if we're on
the same wave length. Let's say I'm slowing down to make a right-hand turn
on to a street. I'd have to say that I'd slowing down from about 50kph to
about 15kph. Half way through the turn I'll go to accelerate and the revs go
up of course because it's changing gears. But then they come down again once
it's finished downshifting. My suspicion is that it's completly disengaging
from the higher gear and then shifting to the lower.

I used to have a manual transmission. It's like having it in third while
giving it gas. Then poping it into first while still giving it gas. I know
it's impossible to do that with a manual unless you have three feet But the
idea is that the engine has no load on it for a second. That's why the revs
would go from say 750rpm (coasting) to say 3500 to say 2000 as it's
downshifting.

I can understand a slight hesitation if you're going slow and then give it
gas. But I think the revs would simply jump up and stay up after the car has
downshifted. But no go way up and then come back down once it's engaged.

The other thing I didn't mention was that to go from Park to Drive, there's
about a 3-4 second delay. When I took it into Wininipeg Honda last, they
just replaced the ATF for 60 clams to see if it would make a difference. I
didn't notice anything.

 

you may have a weakening transmission. hopefully it won't get too bad. honda
transmissions are durable. it could still last another 5-10 years if it's
not too bad and you take care of it. if not look for a used one and find
somebody to help you mount it for cheap.

-jeff

 

----------------------------
Bruce,

You've just described a perfectly normal Honda tranny (of that vintage,
anyway). They are not the same as anything out there. I've owned two
Odyssey that waited a full second before shifting into drive from Park.
When nearly stopped, a Honda tranny will very often clunk into gear with
a jolt. Most Honda trannies get indecisive when they're nearly at a dead
stop. . . Gunning it will cause it to overrev or slam into whatever gear
is handy (my interpretation).

If you're even a tiny bit handy, go buy about seven litres of Honda Z1,
and drain your tranny thoroughly (wait a while or run it thru the gears
for ten seconds). Refill and drive ten miles or do it again next day /
weekend. There's a slight possibility the previous owner may have put
non-Honda ATF in it, so it would need to be replaced (I'd do it anyway,
just since you don't know the absolute whole story)

'Curly'

 

since honda transaxles are basically drain and fill you must be sure to use
honda atf as dexron 3 is not compatible unfortunately in order to do a
filter change the trans must be opened up i know this sucks but honda's have
small filters in the valve body and also the primary filter which like to
stop up with remnants of coverter clutch material if atf change does not
help the problem them overhaul is only answer with converter replacement