1997 Honda Civic: Axle and Lower Ball Joint Replacement Notes

Just some misc. info that would've helped me out I'd like to share
regarding the replacement of my left side half shaft on my 1997 Honda
Civic with 140,000 miles (70% of those highway).

1. The vehicle would shake under load/acceleration. At first it only
did it between 55 and 65mph. After 20,000 miles of tolerating the
shake it was doing it just about all the time, even under slight load
and coasting, between 55 and 80mph.

2. There's no way to discern which shaft is out of balance. I started
with the left for 2 reasons. First, it's longer. So if something is
out of whack, a longer shaft with amplify the problem. Second, you
don't have to drain the transmission to replace the left side.

2a. Prepping the bolts with penetrating spray seemed to help.

3. If you damage the ball joint, you've just created a miserable task.
Mine were still serviceable after many hard miles but I cut the boot
and damaged the bolt. The factory ball joints are pressed in tight.
The shop manuals say you have to take it to a machine shop; however,
if you heat the metal around the ball joint for 3 minutes and then put
a puller on it and whack it, you can get it out. In order to
stabilize the assembly, place a 2x4 between the top of the upper
control arm and the fender. If you don't the entire assembly shifts
up with each blow and you loose the power of the blow.

4. The Napa replacement ball joints have a split clip to hold them in.
Seating the ball joint requires hammering the ball joint in. Use a
brass pin or a dead blow to keep from damaging the ball joint.

5. Don't use a ball joint splitter/pickle fork tool. They're
notorious for cutting boots, even if you lube the tines. Get a ball
joint puller. The extra money spent will save you a lot of headaches.

6. The inner CV joint will slip through the control fork that connects
to the strut. It barely fits, but it does so you don't need to remove
the lower through bolt. I don't think you need to remove the upper
pinch bolt either. The shop manual has you taking apart a bunch of
stuff and it wasn't necessary.

7. When you pop out the inner CV joint, it'll drip a bit. Have rags
handy.

8. A floor jack is invaluable. It lets you lift the suspension and
acts as a helper who happens to be a strongman. I just got one. Best
thing I ever bought.

9. It's more difficult changing the headlights on a Civic than the
half shafts. No kidding. I couldn't believe how quickly and easily
it came out, especially given the 7 years and 140,000 miles of road
grime on the bolts.

10. Have fun buying tools with all the money you're saving on labor.
The $5 spent on a punch from Sears is worth it for getting the 32mm
axle bolt off.

Take all this with a grain of salt. I'm no pro, but this is an
oft-asked question and I thought I'd add my 2 cents.

 

I'd like to throw in that sometimes (only rarely?) a driveshaft can be
stuck in the hub. I had a fun time with my '91 Civic for a while using
many brainstormed ideas and some others I got here. Eventually I took
the driveshaft and the knuckle to a diesel mechanic my Dad knew. I got
the driveshaft back in fine shape to return as a core, but the hub (and
probably the bearing) was history from whatever the guy did. I had a guy
put it on a 20 ton press earlier, and he said screw it after he had 12
tons on it, and it slipped out. I then got a new kuckle for $30 at a
local bone yard and after 1500 miles the bearing in it seems pretty solid.

Mark