1998 Accord battery life..???

I have a 1998 Accord EX V6 with 75k miles, live on Long Island. My battery
seems fine....starts right up, green eye. For me at least this is the
longest I ever got from a battery. Not that I am complaining but does it pay
to just replace it anyway? Any way to tell of it's impending failure? After
all the winter will be upon us soon and I don't want to have to call AAA
when my battery dies
Thanks!
Matthew

 

I have read that older batteries near death do put a strain on the alternator
and so shorten the alternator's life.

In the past I have waited until my car battery died before replacing it. I think
this is a mistake. I have now started doing pre-emptive replacements.

Businesses like Sears, dealerships, and independent shops offer battery checks
for a small fee. Autozone will do a battery check for free but I'm not sure I'd
rely on what Autozone's "experts" find. Still, it's no charge. Google on the net
for details on what these checks include.

I keep an eye on how the car is cranking at cold startup. With experience, one
can often tell when the the battery is near-death.

Indeed. It's probably not a good comparison, but my 1991 Civic's first two
batteries lasted 4.5 years each before dying. This was in climates like New
York's. I purchased the car's third new battery a few weeks ago (157.5k miles),
as a pre-emptive measure; because winter was approaching; to spare the
alternator; to put in an Interstate battery, which many here recommend; because
I now live in a warmer climate and think I had a "northern climate" battery in
the car before.

 

miles),

Oops. That should be FOURTH new battery.

 

It has been a while since I was in the tire and battery retail
business, but I developed the feeling that original equipment batteries
should be replaced at the five year point. Replace the others based on
the years of their guarantee. Don't wait till you go out to start the
car, and it won't turn over. I used to tell customers that a battery
test was like a heart test. It was not a perfect predictor of future
performance. bob

 

Get yourself a voltmeter, attach it to the battery, and crank the engine one
cold morning.
If the voltage goes below 9.1 volts its getting ready to quit. Get a spare
one in case.
Don't carry it in the trunk though. An interesting situation with some
companies,
if you buy a battery with a two year warranty, it may be the same battery
with a
two year warranty. Better buy the cheap one. Or buy one designed to last and
pay the extra.

 

Probably a good idea. How often may depend to some degree on how good of a
battery you purchase and how many times (if ever) you have run it down by
accidentally leaving the lights on (or a dor ajar, etc). Lead-Acid
automotive batteries never fully recover 100% of their capacity once they
have been run completely down. Run it all the way down several times and
you may be lucky to get even 2 years out of it.

What to buy? Personally I'd suggest getting the best you can possibly
afford. A cheap battery is false economy. You will get what you pay for.

Listen to the speed of your starter while cranking to start. As long as
the starter motor spins rapidly during your first-thing-in-the-morning
start then it is probably in no danger of imminent failure. Once the
starter begins draging during the first 2-3 crank overs, it's time for a
battery.

Autozone doesn't employ any Roades Scholars, but they usually do have 1 or
2 employees on staff at any given time who have been trained and are
qualified to use the load tester. Only trained/qualified employees are
allowed to use this equipment. Their "test" is pretty basic, but it will
give you a fairly reliable result if your battery is indeed on its last
legs.

4 years between battery replacements is about right

 

The following say otherwise:

"A weak battery that is not storing enough power will cause the alternator to
work harder and possibly cause premature alternator failure. Dirty or corroded
battery terminals can severely reduce the lifespan of the battery and
alternator." http://www.trustmymechanic.com/35.html

" ...depleted batteries make recharging much more difficult, shortening
alternator life." http://www.intra-tech.com/news/homeapriltwentnine.html

"By maintaining batteries in peak condition alternators do not work as hard,
batteries accept charge more readily so alternator life is extended. Healthy
batteries start engines easier, so your starter should also last longer."
http://www.megapulse.net/faq.htm

snip

My most recent experiene with Autozone was a month or so ago when I asked them
to do an alternator check. They saw low readings at the battery terminals (which
I'd already told them I saw). They told me the car needed a new alternator.

In fact, the low readings (approx. 12.7 volts) were normal. Only when load was
put on the system does the battery terminal voltage rise to over 14 volts, I
learned later.

One gets what one pays for.

I should add that the $15-$25 one might pay for a battery check could be going
towards a new battery.

If the battery is over 4 years old and there are any symptoms or other good
reasons for buying a new battery, I'd say skip the battery check and just buy
it.

snip

I have seen a lot of variation in battery lives here. Some report over 7 years
of life on their Honda batteries. Four years seems to be on the low side of
reports here, IIRC.

 

That should be a batery with a one year warranty.

 

you've picked up some incorrect info somewhere there bubba. old
batteries require much more charge, hence more alternator load over a
longer period. more alternator load means the rectifiers run hotter,
longer. rectifier life is a function of temperature - hot is bad. too
much heat for too long = fried rectifiers = dead alternator.

 

Check the battery with a good hydrometer, not with a voltmeter. If all
the cells measure in the green, you are okay. If in the white, give the
battery a charge and see if they make it into the green. If not,
replace.