1998 Civic - Spark Plug Gap Setting

They haven't told you very much at all. Except that you need to pay them
lots of money.

Define "major tuneup". What did it say on the quote sheet?

No. BUT...When was the timing belt changed last?

 

There was not a quote sheet. They called me on the phone and told me
what they suggested needed to be changed/repaired. This included the
O2 sensor, a tune-up (spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor replacement),
and a fuel filter replacement.

Unfortunately, based on some online research, it appears that the
timing belt replacement is not something I can do, as I am an
"amateur" car mechanic at best!

I'll have to check some old bills/quote sheets from past visits to the
auto shop to see if/when the timing belt has ever been replaced.

Thanks, everyone, for your continued replies.

Kevin

 

Tegger (and others),

I have started performing the tune-up on my '98 Civic. I first
replaced the spark plugs without too much trouble. I then took off
the distributor cap to get to the rotor to replace that. I have run
into a problem. I can't get the rotor out! I have seen several posts
(some by you, Tegger), which indicates that there could be a screw
holding the rotor in place. I cannot determine this. Is this screw
viewable on the outside of the "leak cover?" I have used a mirror to
see the underneath of the "leak cover" and I don't see this screw
anywhere. So, I have two questions:

1. Is the rotor held in by a screw? If so, how do I get to it?
2. If the rotor is not held in by a screw, then how do I get the
rotor out? I've already busted part of the rotor of while trying to
get it out. I've tried pulling it with my hands, using pliers, etc.,
so as not to damage the distributor.

Initially when I first decided that I could "tackle" this job, I found
a website located at "http://www.partsource.ca/doityourself/
JOM_June2005.asp" and it indicated that removing the rotor was
"easy." This has definitely not been the case!

Your help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

yes it is. rotate motor until screw is visible. it's opposite the
spark "finger".

unless it's some kind of whacked aftermarket junk, it's there.

 

Jim,

Thanks for your reply.

How does one rotate the motor? I have read a few posts online on how
to do it, but I am still not quite grasping the concept. Would you
know how and be able to tell me how to do it specifically for a Civic?

What is the spark "finger?" Is this something that's in the
distributor?

Thanks,
Kevin

 

if it's a stick, easiest way is put it in top gear, jack /one/ wheel off
the ground, then rotate the wheel. the motor will turn slowly, and you
can stop when the rotor arm is in the desired position. if it's auto,
use a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt.

on the rotor itself, there is a metal finger that points at each of the
plug leads in turn as it rotates. you approach the head of the screw at
180 to the direction of the finger, so to have the screw pointed up at
you where you can access, turn the motor to point the finger down.
preferably to about 8o/c and #1 piston firing position.

if you want to do other work on this car over time, i strongly recommend
you invest in the factory repair manual from helminc.com. by far the
best tool you can ever buy for your honda.

 

-----------------------

Use the (ignition) key and flip the starter a tiny bit. When the rotor
points horizontal, at the radiator, the screw will be pointing at the
firewall, if yours it like my '97 CR-V. Honda provided a hole in the
plastic guard for you to see when the screw lines up. Here's a quote
from a similar post:

When removing the rotor, use a fairly LARGE Phillips tip, or grind a bit
off the tip of the one you have. The tip has to feel bottomed in the
screw and fit snuggly. North American tools rarely fit Japanese screws
correctly and you will need all the torque you can get.

'Curly'

 

See here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/distrotor.html

 

Thanks, everyone, for your replies. I used the "flip the starter a
tiny bit" methodology in order to get the screw exposed that was
holding in the rotor. Once I got this replaced, everything else was
smooth sailing! The car is running good after the tune-up.

Thanks everyone!

Kevin

 

I heard platinum plugs can eventually burn holes in the piston head...
someone wrote that on a message I had posted here. They said they are
ok to clean the carbon out of the injectors or something like that,
but not to used them for too long cuz they can lead to premature
piston/cylinder wear and small holes. By too long I mean for more then
a year or 2.

 

crock of utter bullshit.