1999 Civic CX questions

Discussion in 'Civic' started by BT, Dec 26, 2008.

  1. BT

    BT Guest

    I have a 1999 Honda Civic CX (the US hatchback version, manual
    transmission, possibly the last year it was made) with 230,000 miles.
    It has been driven almost exclusively in California, and mostly
    highway miles (80%). Pretty much everything is still original on this
    car except for the brake pads, headlight bulbs, spark plugs, tires,
    timing belt and the heater blower motor (the only non-wear part to
    have gone bad). The car still runs as smooth as a sewing machine,
    except that there is some clatter in the winter(!) until the engine
    warms up (piston slap?). Using Castrol Syntec (0W-30) seems to help
    with this, but for the last 140k miles, I've used mostly Mobil1 5W-30,
    changed every 10k miles. It generally needs about a quart every 5k
    miles, but there are no leaks that I can see.

    There are two issues I would like some input on. One, my mileage has
    gone down quite a bit over the last three or so years. Part of it
    could be that my city/highway ratio has increased a bit (30:70 split
    from about 10:90 earlier), and part of it could be that the highway
    speeds I drive at have increased (from ~65-70 to 70-75). Both of
    these are because of a move from NorCal to SoCal. But the drop in
    mileage has been pretty drastic. I used to always get >38 mpg earlier
    (even with some higher-speed driving), and now I get about 33-36 mpg
    in the summer, and ~30-31 in the winter. I keep the tires inflated
    pretty regularly, so I don't think that's it. And the winter decrease
    is likely due to fuel formulation. But can anyone speculate on whether
    the other factors I mentioned could lead to ~15% reduction in fuel
    efficiency? If yes, I guess I just have to live with it. If not, are
    there any fixes I could work on? The one thing that I've not been able
    to do is to change the PCV valve on this car. It's so easy on my
    wife's 1995 civic, but almost impossible to get to on my 1999 model.
    And every time I've gone to the dealer to get stuff done, I've
    forgotten to mention it to them.

    The second question is about the shocks/struts. Based on the amount of
    road I'm feeling, I have a feeling I would be better off with new ones
    all around. I don't see any leaks/abnormalities when I'm under the
    car, but they just don't feel right when I go over bumps/potholes. I
    am incapable of doing this work myself, and have very little knowledge
    of what would be a good investment. What I'm basically looking for is
    input on whether I should get some really good quality shocks that
    will last me a while, or given the age of the car, just do the basics.
    The body is in excellent shape, so if the motor dies, I wouldn't be
    averse to putting in a new motor (maybe something a little more
    powerful :). If that happens, I would like to be ready with decent
    shocks already installed on the car, rather than having to change them
    again at that time. So I guess what I'm looking for is a
    recommendation on what would be good shocks/struts/both. Does it
    matter if I'm only going to get ~350,000 miles out of this car? Should
    I worry about getting really good quality so I'll be ready for a new
    motor or is that just too far down the line? What would be the price
    difference between getting OEM and something that would be top-of-the-
    line?

    Thanks all for your input. I've cross-posted to both alt.autos.honda
    and rec.autos.makers.honda. Please follow-up as you prefer. I'll be
    following both groups.

    Thanks,

    BT
     
    BT, Dec 26, 2008
    #1
  2. BT

    Elle Guest

    For gas mileage tips specific to Hondas, see
    http://honda.lioness.googlepages.com/gasmileagetips

    I think this is a D16Y7 (see what is stamped on the engine
    just inboard and below the dizzy). If so, fueleconomy.gov
    says their testing yields 27/34 (and 30 combined) and
    individuals' report and 29/36 (and 33 combined).

    If the ride is very uncomfortable, then for keeping it
    another 100k+ miles I would do the basics with OEM only. I
    would expect OEM to last pretty long (maybe longer than most
    or all aftermarket). Using OEM also ensures the alignment
    and things like tire wear are optimal. You can consider
    working with an import shop where you provide the OEM parts
    using online companies like www.slhondaparts.com . But also
    get an estimate from your Honda dealers, since they may get
    a discount on OEM parts. Changing shocks and coils is not a
    difficult job, so I would trust the import shops.

    Make sure you actually need new shocks and/or coils.
    Something else may be causing the potholes etc. problem.
     
    Elle, Dec 26, 2008
    #2
  3. BT

    Elle Guest

    For gas mileage tips specific to Hondas, see
    http://honda.lioness.googlepages.com/gasmileagetips

    I think this is a D16Y7 (see what is stamped on the engine
    just inboard and below the dizzy). If so, fueleconomy.gov
    says their testing yields 27/34 (and 30 combined) and
    individuals' report and 29/36 (and 33 combined).

    If the ride is very uncomfortable, then for keeping it
    another 100k+ miles I would do the basics with OEM only. I
    would expect OEM to last pretty long (maybe longer than most
    or all aftermarket). Using OEM also ensures the alignment
    and things like tire wear are optimal. You can consider
    working with an import shop where you provide the OEM parts
    using online companies like www.slhondaparts.com . But also
    get an estimate from your Honda dealers, since they may get
    a discount on OEM parts. Changing shocks and coils is not a
    difficult job, so I would trust the import shops.

    Make sure you actually need new shocks and/or coils.
    Something else may be causing the potholes etc. problem.
     
    Elle, Dec 26, 2008
    #3
  4. BT

    Leftie Guest


    I'll comment on the economy drop. The two changes in driving you
    mention could indeed account for a 15% drop in fuel economy. You can try
    to compensate in two ways: higher tire pressure (10% below the max
    pressure listed on the tire sidewalls, assuming the tires aren't old and
    worn, and accelerating more slowly to make up for the higher cruising
    speeds. If that doesn't work, it's time for some basic engine
    diagnostics. If you post your last two or three smog test results here,
    one of techs may be able to tell you if your fuel system is getting lax...
     
    Leftie, Dec 26, 2008
    #4
  5. BT

    Leftie Guest


    I'll comment on the economy drop. The two changes in driving you
    mention could indeed account for a 15% drop in fuel economy. You can try
    to compensate in two ways: higher tire pressure (10% below the max
    pressure listed on the tire sidewalls, assuming the tires aren't old and
    worn, and accelerating more slowly to make up for the higher cruising
    speeds. If that doesn't work, it's time for some basic engine
    diagnostics. If you post your last two or three smog test results here,
    one of techs may be able to tell you if your fuel system is getting lax...
     
    Leftie, Dec 26, 2008
    #5
  6. BT

    jim beam Guest


    dude, that post was /way/ too long.

    mileage - check all your ignition components, air filter, etc., use a
    quality engine oil [synthetics can offer better economy], decent gasoline,
    valve lash, ignition timing, check your brakes aren't binding, etc. it's
    a maintenance issue.

    regarding ride, that model civic, for whatever reason is a real brain
    beater. i had one [2000 was the last model year] and sold it for that
    reason. i tried three different brands of shocks, different bushings,
    different tires, and nothing could "cure" it. that's not to say none of
    these things had any effect - cushy shocks like kyb agx are a fine shock
    and offer a comfy ride on other vehicles, but so do oem, and they're not
    enough on this vehicle. another thing that kinda helps is tires. at the
    two ends of the scale, michelins were harsh, dunlops comfy, relatively.
    also, steel wheels are slightly more springy than alloys.

    bottom line though, if you want comfort, go with an older gen civic, or
    better yet accord. i spent a lot of time, and a shed-load of money trying
    to get the 2000 civic to ride like my 89, and failed utterly. and on top
    of that, it's heavy, slow, and has no sway bars, so is scary-unstable if
    you need to do emergency avoidance maneuvers. i say cut your losses and
    get rid of it.
     
    jim beam, Dec 26, 2008
    #6
  7. BT

    jim beam Guest


    dude, that post was /way/ too long.

    mileage - check all your ignition components, air filter, etc., use a
    quality engine oil [synthetics can offer better economy], decent gasoline,
    valve lash, ignition timing, check your brakes aren't binding, etc. it's
    a maintenance issue.

    regarding ride, that model civic, for whatever reason is a real brain
    beater. i had one [2000 was the last model year] and sold it for that
    reason. i tried three different brands of shocks, different bushings,
    different tires, and nothing could "cure" it. that's not to say none of
    these things had any effect - cushy shocks like kyb agx are a fine shock
    and offer a comfy ride on other vehicles, but so do oem, and they're not
    enough on this vehicle. another thing that kinda helps is tires. at the
    two ends of the scale, michelins were harsh, dunlops comfy, relatively.
    also, steel wheels are slightly more springy than alloys.

    bottom line though, if you want comfort, go with an older gen civic, or
    better yet accord. i spent a lot of time, and a shed-load of money trying
    to get the 2000 civic to ride like my 89, and failed utterly. and on top
    of that, it's heavy, slow, and has no sway bars, so is scary-unstable if
    you need to do emergency avoidance maneuvers. i say cut your losses and
    get rid of it.
     
    jim beam, Dec 26, 2008
    #7
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