1999 CRV: Modify Cig Lighter to "always on"

Discussion in 'CR-V' started by Thomas G. Marshall, Oct 20, 2004.

  1. Randolph coughed up:

    HUH! If I wanted to reuse the same hot wire that is already going to the
    lighter, is there a way to keep the lighter fuse in place, and easily
    redirect it's input current to receive from one of the always on's?

    Previously:

    ignition -----> lighter fuse -----> lighter wire -----> cig. lighter.

    Can I do this:

    tap into always on -----> lighter fuse -----> lighter wire -----> cig.
    lighter.

    easily? It seems like no matter which way I do this, it's going to get
    ugly.
     
    Thomas G. Marshall, Oct 23, 2004
    #21
  2. Thomas G. Marshall

    Abeness Guest

    No can do: the fuse that the lighter's on by default is built in to the
    fuse box, and in my the '94 Civic (#19) also supplies power to the dash
    lights and the radio. It's quite possible that your CRV has multiple
    items on the lighter fuse as well. You'd have to seriously screw with
    the fuse block to route always-on power to the hot side of the lighter
    fuse. By doing so you'd also be supplying always-on power to all fuses
    on the same bus as the lighter fuse: *definitely* not a good idea, so
    you'd have to cut the bus so as to isolate the lighter fuse. Really unwise.

    It's a relatively easy matter to pick up an inline fuse, disconnect the
    lighter wire and run it to the inline fuse connected to an always-on
    option connector. Much easier and not permanently damaging.
     
    Abeness, Oct 25, 2004
    #22
  3. Thomas G. Marshall

    Abeness Guest

    No can do: the fuse that the lighter's on by default is built in to the
    fuse box, and in my the '94 Civic (#19) also supplies power to the dash
    lights and the radio. It's quite possible that your CRV has multiple
    items on the lighter fuse as well. You'd have to seriously screw with
    the fuse block to route always-on power to the hot side of the lighter
    fuse. By doing so you'd also be supplying always-on power to all fuses
    on the same bus as the lighter fuse: *definitely* not a good idea, so
    you'd have to cut the bus so as to isolate the lighter fuse. Really unwise.

    It's a relatively easy matter to pick up an inline fuse, disconnect the
    lighter wire and run it to the inline fuse connected to an always-on
    option connector. Much easier and not permanently damaging.
     
    Abeness, Oct 25, 2004
    #23
  4. Abeness coughed up:
    Thanks. Yeah, I found that out (see other thread started by me, where I
    discuss how I /did/ change the power at the fuse box, let it run overnight,
    and then changed it back).

    ------> Do you know how the heck I can get to the back of that cig lighter?
    I cannot seem to get that part of the dashboard off, nor can I "pop" out the
    lighter compartment.
     
    Thomas G. Marshall, Oct 25, 2004
    #24
  5. Abeness coughed up:
    Thanks. Yeah, I found that out (see other thread started by me, where I
    discuss how I /did/ change the power at the fuse box, let it run overnight,
    and then changed it back).

    ------> Do you know how the heck I can get to the back of that cig lighter?
    I cannot seem to get that part of the dashboard off, nor can I "pop" out the
    lighter compartment.
     
    Thomas G. Marshall, Oct 25, 2004
    #25
  6. Thomas G. Marshall

    Abeness Guest

    Yeah, I saw that thread only after posting. Had a lot of catchup to do
    after a few much-needed days away.
    Sorry, I don't. Might be helpful to pick up a copy of the shop manual
    for your vehicle from http://helminc.com , though I suspect if you poke
    around closely enough you'll find the screws holding the console in place.
     
    Abeness, Oct 25, 2004
    #26
  7. Thomas G. Marshall

    Abeness Guest

    Yeah, I saw that thread only after posting. Had a lot of catchup to do
    after a few much-needed days away.
    Sorry, I don't. Might be helpful to pick up a copy of the shop manual
    for your vehicle from http://helminc.com , though I suspect if you poke
    around closely enough you'll find the screws holding the console in place.
     
    Abeness, Oct 25, 2004
    #27
  8. Randolph coughed up:

    ....[rip]...


    Update. For now I'm waiting for a service manual to show up in the mail
    before attempting opening up the dash again. This is ridiculous----I've
    never had this much trouble with a car dash before. I opened it up on my
    own using simple eyeball-logic, ended up with a nearly impossible situation
    to figure out----there are screws at the bottom that seem to hold 2 metal
    frames together, serving double duty. It looks like the removal of those
    screws would cause an inner frame to fall away, out of reach. Not going to
    risk it.

    Also, just "pulling" on the dash component like one of the instructions said
    is not always nifty: When I did it, one of those cheap metal clips came
    UNDONE from the plastic tab that was supposed to hold it. It fell off, and
    landed somewhere deep inside the car. BTW, I discovered another place
    missing one of those clips entirely. Thing holds together fine, there are
    enough clips, but I'm spooked enough to wait.

    Now, on to a real question concerning the options connectors.

    As I said, I know which one of them is always on.

    But to avoid actually connecting the grounding wire to a chassis bolt, I'd
    like to quick-connect (1/4 inch blade connector) to an options connector
    near the power one.

    If I discover one of the options connectors to be 0 Ohms between it and
    chassis-ground (with or without the engine running), am I more or less
    guaranteed that it is Okidoki to use as the ground connection for the cig.
    lighter? When my cell phone charger or cig lighter is placed in it, will
    the travel through current possibly hit something else attached to that
    options-ground?

    Thanks!
     
    Thomas G. Marshall, Nov 26, 2004
    #28
  9. Randolph coughed up:

    ....[rip]...


    Update. For now I'm waiting for a service manual to show up in the mail
    before attempting opening up the dash again. This is ridiculous----I've
    never had this much trouble with a car dash before. I opened it up on my
    own using simple eyeball-logic, ended up with a nearly impossible situation
    to figure out----there are screws at the bottom that seem to hold 2 metal
    frames together, serving double duty. It looks like the removal of those
    screws would cause an inner frame to fall away, out of reach. Not going to
    risk it.

    Also, just "pulling" on the dash component like one of the instructions said
    is not always nifty: When I did it, one of those cheap metal clips came
    UNDONE from the plastic tab that was supposed to hold it. It fell off, and
    landed somewhere deep inside the car. BTW, I discovered another place
    missing one of those clips entirely. Thing holds together fine, there are
    enough clips, but I'm spooked enough to wait.

    Now, on to a real question concerning the options connectors.

    As I said, I know which one of them is always on.

    But to avoid actually connecting the grounding wire to a chassis bolt, I'd
    like to quick-connect (1/4 inch blade connector) to an options connector
    near the power one.

    If I discover one of the options connectors to be 0 Ohms between it and
    chassis-ground (with or without the engine running), am I more or less
    guaranteed that it is Okidoki to use as the ground connection for the cig.
    lighter? When my cell phone charger or cig lighter is placed in it, will
    the travel through current possibly hit something else attached to that
    options-ground?

    Thanks!
     
    Thomas G. Marshall, Nov 26, 2004
    #29
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