2000 Accord - Coolant Flush

Discussion in 'Accord' started by SadaYama, Mar 19, 2005.

  1. SadaYama

    SadaYama Guest

    2000Accord-EX-56K-5Spd: I am planning to do the Coolant Flush, as
    described in the owner's manual. I have 2 questions:

    Where can I buy the torque wrench, which sets pressure for Drain Plug,
    and the Engine Block Nut. Can someone suggest me what to buy and where,
    please.

    I am still looking hard, but could not locate the Engine Block Nut yet.

    Thanks
    Shanks
     
    SadaYama, Mar 19, 2005
    #1
  2. SadaYama

    motsco_ _ Guest

     
    motsco_ _, Mar 19, 2005
    #2
  3. SadaYama

    SadaYama Guest

    I understand that the Radiator draining, Engine block nut, is next to
    Oil Filter. Can someone, please tell me, whether it is accessible from
    driver's side or passengers side? Also, if I jackup on that side, can I
    reach the nut, easily.

    Thanks.
     
    SadaYama, Apr 4, 2005
    #3
  4. Don't bother with the block drain on newer models. I hear it's a real
    PITA to reach. A (possibly) easier solution that shouldn't require
    getting under the
    car:

    1) Drain radiator with heater on full-open
    2) D/c upper radiator hose from cylinder head & remove and replace the
    thermostat (with honda OEM).
    3) D/c lower radiator hose from radiator side, and aim it into your
    drain pan. This
    should drain 85% of the block.
    4) Stick garden hose into cylinder head where termostat was removed and
    blast it until the lower-rad hose runs clear (shouldn't take much at
    all.
    5) Wait for draining to finish, reconnect all hoses, replace
    thermostat, etc.. and fill system with about 55% coolant 45% water to
    make up for whatever
    water was residual in the block after flushing.

    PS: Many people swear against tap water, but YMMV. My opinion is that
    if you use a good silicate free coolant, then this shouldn't be a big
    issue assuming you flush every few years. I guess you should use your
    best judgement since you know your local water better.
     
    justinreigle (at) gmail (dot) com, Apr 4, 2005
    #4
  5. SadaYama

    E. Meyer Guest

    Is this a 4 cyl or 6? The bolt is hopeless on the 4, forget about it.

    My 2000 TL (3.2 V6) actually has a block drain that looks more like a
    bleeder and is actually usable. Its not torqued off the map and is
    relatively easy to get to (though only from underneath on the passenger
    side (assuming US car)). If you have the 6, do a little more homework and
    see if it has the usable drain. If you have it, it is definitely easier
    than removing hoses, etc.
     
    E. Meyer, Apr 5, 2005
    #5
  6. SadaYama

    SadaYama Guest

    Is this a 4 cyl or 6? The bolt is hopeless on the 4, forget about
    it.

    2000 Accord-EX-56K-5Spd- 4Cyl. The procedure in the book talks about,
    draining the radiator first, and draining the engine block next. After
    tightening both, it suggests refill with a bleeding nut on the top of
    the engine.
     
    SadaYama, Apr 6, 2005
    #6
  7. SadaYama

    E. Meyer Guest

    I wouldn't bother with the block drain, but make sure you use Honda
    anti-freeze so it mixes properly with the original stuff remaining in the
    block. Also don't forget to follow the procedure to make sure the valve to
    the heater core is open when you drain so the fluid in there also drains.

    in any event, you need to use the bleeder on top when you refill, or it will
    trap an air bubble at that spot and fry whatever switch or sensor happens to
    be nearby.
     
    E. Meyer, Apr 7, 2005
    #7
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