2000 Civic stalled, engine light on

I was driving my 2000 Civic on the highway and it slowly ran down and
stalled (pressing accelerator didn't give it gas). It was -20 degrees
at the time, but the car had been started in a warm garage and was
running fine up til then - engine was at proper temperature. The gas
tank was just under 1/8 full. I started it again and drove it to a gas
station (no service bays though) and filled it up. It ran rough for a
couple of minutes and the engine light came on.

I drove it back home at low speed and it didn't have any more trouble.
For the last week the engine light has remained on but the car seems
to run just fine. It starts in cold weather, doesn't run rough, seems
to have normal acceleration and gad mileage. I haven't read the
OBD-II diagnostic code yet, but I'm tempted to just reset the fuse and
see if the light comes back on and if not just ignore it ...

Could this have been cold weather related - perhaps a near empty tank
and frozen condensation from being in the heated garage? I don't know.
Any Honda-knowledgeable readers out there have an opinion? Would it be
safe to try driving it as is? Or is this a situation where I really
*have* to take it in.

Thanks -
Kev

 

I would suggest pulling the backup fuse. This will
reset your computer. See if the CEL comes back.

What probably happened is that you ran to low on gas.
when you let the gas get that low, you run the risk of
condensation is the gas tank. A little water would be ok
(well not really, but it would just run through). This
may also be exacerbated by constant changes in temp from
heated garage to -20 temps.

However, when you only have 1/8 of a tank of gas, that is
alot of water that could potentially get into the gas.

My rule of thumb in winter is to always make sure that I
have at least 1/2 a tank. You can buy a water remover from
any parts store, its made by STP. I doubt the formulation
is much different from regular injector cleaner, but i would
run some of that through as well.

If all of that doesn't do anything, replace the fuel filter. may not be a
bad idea anyways.

t

 

I pulled the fuse and the CEL went out. I then test drove it on the highway
(something I hadn't done since having the original problem) and it failed
again - after about 15 minutes at highway speeds it seems to lose gas and
stall. But I can start it again and as long as I drive slowly (<70 km/hr)
it's ok - though the CEL is back on.

So ... I am taking it in for servicing. Thanks for your response.

 

Ya get the code checked. That is weird. Maybe you MAP
sensor....

t

 

Ya get the code checked. That is weird. Maybe you MAP
sensor....

t

 

PS let us know how it turns out!

 

The dealer (Calgary Honda) checked the code (P1106 baro sensor performance,
internal circuit of ECM failure), then cleared it, test drove the car and
were unable to reproduce the problem. Charged me $95 and said that if the
light came back on would require "extensive diagnosis and possible ECM
replacement". So I'm not much further ahead than when I took the car in -
just $95 poorer.

Kev

 

----------------------------

It's not Honda-specific, but it is Alberta / Winter specific. As you
asked, it's gas-line icing. Parking in parkades or heated garages with a
low tank is just begging for condensation to get in. Use gasohol, or add
methyl hydrate at each fill-up when it's way below freezing. Keep the
'headroom' in the tank to a minimum.

Re: The $95 . . At least it was only Canadian $$s :-(

'Curly'

 

That last tip should be engraved into the dashboard of every car. It should
have appeared on one of Moses's tablets.

Letting the tank run down is the very worst thing you can do in the winter.
Keep the tank at LEAST 3/4 full anytime the car is parked unless you have
no choice.

Headroom means exposed tank surface. Water condenses on the tank and runs
down into the gas, and from there goes all over the fuel system. The more
exposed tank surface means more water.

If you always make sure the tank is never less than 3/4 full (and
preferably freshly filled up!) any time the car sits overnight, you will
keep water from accumulating, and from getting sucked up by the pump
pickup, and will not need the other two tips.

Keeping the tank full may seem like lots of trouble to do...until you start
getting ice in the fuel line and corrosion in the fuel lines, tank and
injectors.

 

Hey Curly,

My 98 civic HATES gasohol. I avoid it at all costs, and
blame it for making my Catalytic converter go bad (on
warranty) a few years ago. Also, my gas mileage and
performance goes down. Its wacky.

I realize there is a fair amount of controversy regarding
a 'safe' amount of ethanol in gasoline, but my experience
in this matter makes me wanna stay FAR away from it....

t

 

If you read your owner's manual you'll probably discover it specifies NO
MORE than 10% alcohol. So long as you stay at or below this figure, your
car will be fine. It was designed to use up to 10%.

Your cat was replaced for reasons other than alcohol. Alcohol as used in
gasoline does not kill catalytic converters.

And yes, your mileage will go down with oxygenated gas. Oxygenates have
less energy per gallon than other octane enhancers. For more (lots more),
see here:
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part1/

 

We are in an extreme cold spell (-20C to -30C daily). After running some STP
water remover through (as previously suggested by t) - the car seems OK. No
more stalling.

So what should I do now to get the moisture out of my fuel system? Will the
STP water remover do a complete job of that or is there another way?

I have already marked up my Bible - "Thou shalt minimize headroom by keeping
thy tank at least 3/4 full during the winter". (and I scratched out "Thou
shalt not covet thy neighbor's wife" cause my neighbor's wife is totally
hot).