2001 Accord EX (4-cyl) is at 102k miles - Shows SIX trouble codes!!Yikes!

Hi Folks. My 2001 Accord EX (4-cyl) is at 102,000 miles and throwing
all of these codes...

P0141 Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) (Sensor 2)
Heater Circuit Malfunction

P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold

P0700 Automatic Transmission Control System

P1166 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater System Electrical
Problem

P1298 Electric Load Detector (ELD) Circuit High Voltage

P1768 ???

I don't even know what the last one is. Any ideas for where a novice
should start? I'm out of work until my new job starts in about a
month, and PA state inspection just around the corner. Also, I was
part of the Sept 2002 auto transmission recall covering 1.2 million
Honda and Accura models, did need and got a new trans for free, but
the extended warranty on the news trans expired at 100k miles incase
that is relevant.

 

I am no expert by any means but this sounds like the computer
hiccupped. i would unhook battery to clear codes first.

 

Secondary heated oxygen sensor (this is the one that is just past the cat)
is the thing that triggers the Catalyst efficiency alarm. Address the
oxygen sensor and the catalyst one will probably go away.

The TCS code is unfortunately not related to the auto-trans recall. It
means the transmission shift control computer has a problem. The recall had
to do with internal clutches failing.

As another poster suggested, this many codes all at once sounds like
something scared the computer. Reset & see which one(s) come back then
proceed accordingly. To reset, find the radio backup fuse (7.5 amp, usually
in the under hood fuse box), and pull it for 10 seconds, or disconnect the
battery neg cable for at least that long. If the radio asks for its code,
you had it disconnected long enough.

 

Secondary heated oxygen sensor (this is the one that is just past the cat)
is the thing that triggers the Catalyst efficiency alarm. Address the
oxygen sensor and the catalyst one will probably go away.

The TCS code is unfortunately not related to the auto-trans recall. It
means the transmission shift control computer has a problem. The recall had
to do with internal clutches failing.

As another poster suggested, this many codes all at once sounds like
something scared the computer. Reset & see which one(s) come back then
proceed accordingly. To reset, find the radio backup fuse (7.5 amp, usually
in the under hood fuse box), and pull it for 10 seconds, or disconnect the
battery neg cable for at least that long. If the radio asks for its code,
you had it disconnected long enough.

 

Thanks you two. The box I own to read the codes can reset them too,
so I erased them all and the 'check engine' went off. I just drove
for about 15 minutes and the engine light didn't come back on.
However, I have a gut feeling that this one will come back since it
was on for about a week...

P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold

By the way, what should I be doing about P0420 when it comes back as I
except it shall.

 

Thanks you two. The box I own to read the codes can reset them too,
so I erased them all and the 'check engine' went off. I just drove
for about 15 minutes and the engine light didn't come back on.
However, I have a gut feeling that this one will come back since it
was on for about a week...

P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold

By the way, what should I be doing about P0420 when it comes back as I
except it shall.

 

I would check the downstream O2 sensor first. If it checks out, then worry
about the cat.

 

I would check the downstream O2 sensor first. If it checks out, then worry
about the cat.

 

just curious - what kind of gas do you use?

 

just curious - what kind of gas do you use?

 

change your 2 o2 sensors and pray 420 doesn't recode-----cat bi
bucks........load sensor in fuse box under hood 2 philipps screws...
good luc

 

which engine? F23A1 or F23A4?

If non-ULEV you should be able to get both upstream and downstream
sensors for about $130 +shipping (www.rockauto.com). I'd recommend
Bosch planar type sensor, these designs are more resistant to
contamination than the cheap heated thimble that's in there already.
I'd stay away from Densos, these have cost Toyota, Honda and many
owners to needlessly replace catalytic converters.

However, if you have the ULEV version, then the upstream sensor costs
about $220! I think the OEM may be the NTK pump cell wide band sensor,
which Bosch also reboxes, but not sure.

If the sensor is not working, then your car's ECU may not go into
closed-loop operation. So try to solve these first.

http://www.boschautoparts.com/Products/OxygenSensors/PlanarO2

 

which engine? F23A1 or F23A4?

If non-ULEV you should be able to get both upstream and downstream
sensors for about $130 +shipping (www.rockauto.com). I'd recommend
Bosch planar type sensor, these designs are more resistant to
contamination than the cheap heated thimble that's in there already.
I'd stay away from Densos, these have cost Toyota, Honda and many
owners to needlessly replace catalytic converters.

However, if you have the ULEV version, then the upstream sensor costs
about $220! I think the OEM may be the NTK pump cell wide band sensor,
which Bosch also reboxes, but not sure.

If the sensor is not working, then your car's ECU may not go into
closed-loop operation. So try to solve these first.

http://www.boschautoparts.com/Products/OxygenSensors/PlanarO2

 

thank you to our corporate sponsors. now back with the program.

bosch sensors may work in gm, frod, vw, etc., but they excite a lot of
negative passion on honda groups because of poor performance and codes.
they're not worth the cost saving.

 

thank you to our corporate sponsors. now back with the program.

bosch sensors may work in gm, frod, vw, etc., but they excite a lot of
negative passion on honda groups because of poor performance and codes.
they're not worth the cost saving.