2001 Accord maintenance question / concern ...

I drive a 2001 4cyl Honda Accord sedan. I just hit 96,000km, and went to
the dealership to find out what needs to be done. I was told my car needs a
type 4 maintenance (~400$) + trans fluid change (more $$$ on top of it).

I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour
inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if
applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don't even replace the spark
plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF!

So what am I to do? I had my brakes serviced ~20K ago, and I just put on a
set of new tires. Do you folks think that if I just get the trans fluid
changed and oil changed, + buy the air filter and replace it myself would be
good enough for a 96K service ??

What would you do if you were in my shoes ?

Thanks.

 

I'd do exactly what you suggested, in fact I do the exact same thing when it
is time for any of the Honda service (if I've already done the other
pertinent parts). Air filtres are not expensive and the transmission fluid
change is around $50.00 (if my memory serves me correctly).

Brian

 

I'd do exactly what you suggested, in fact I do the exact same thing when it
is time for any of the Honda service (if I've already done the other
pertinent parts). Air filtres are not expensive and the transmission fluid
change is around $50.00 (if my memory serves me correctly).

Brian

 

Of course, be sure to use genuine Honda fluids (except engine oil) - as the
experts have pointed out many times here. Tranny and power steering fluids
especially should not be substituted; brake and antifreeze are less critical
IIRC. I also use genuine OEM filters.

Mike

 

Of course, be sure to use genuine Honda fluids (except engine oil) - as the
experts have pointed out many times here. Tranny and power steering fluids
especially should not be substituted; brake and antifreeze are less critical
IIRC. I also use genuine OEM filters.

Mike

 

I'll probably get a myriad of flames, but I
would have to say that it might almost be worth
the $400 if you have the cash. But this depends
on the dealership, whether they are really good
or not. My dealer in Winkler MB was pretty
frickin awesome, and because I had taken it in,
when I had Trannie probs at 140000kms, they did
not even hesitate to fix the prob on warranty,
even though it was well over the mileage.

at 96000kms, you are just about off warranty,
unless you have Honda Plus. It wouldn't be a
bad idea for them to give it a once over. I
guess the other aspect is that they should do
that for free, or at least less money. But I
guess i will admit I did the $400 inspection,
and they did find some stuff wrong that would
have otherwise gone unnoticed on my 98 civic.
But my dealership was uncannily helpful when it
came time to do warranty work, and I don't know
if all dealerships are like that.

t

 

I would read the owner's manual and see what the maker of your car
recommends.

 

I would read the owner's manual and see what the maker of your car
recommends.

 

I don't take it to the dealer unless it's Warranty work. Sorry, just too
much markup. I have a trusted mechanic at AAMCO who was a Honda mechanic
for years. Most of the maintenance I do myself, but Timing Belt and Water
Pump I leave up to them.

If you have Pollen Filters, they are a pain, but I can send you the
instructions if you need it.

G-Man

 

I don't take it to the dealer unless it's Warranty work. Sorry, just too
much markup. I have a trusted mechanic at AAMCO who was a Honda mechanic
for years. Most of the maintenance I do myself, but Timing Belt and Water
Pump I leave up to them.

If you have Pollen Filters, they are a pain, but I can send you the
instructions if you need it.

G-Man

 

me? id do the work myself, according to the book. oil, filter, cabin
filter, etc.

you can probably find a good trusted honda/acura mechanic in the book
who will do just what needs to be done.

 

me? id do the work myself, according to the book. oil, filter, cabin
filter, etc.

you can probably find a good trusted honda/acura mechanic in the book
who will do just what needs to be done.

 

buy the parts and do it yourself.Go to dealer in buy tran fluid.Ck maint
book to see when spark plug needed to be replaced also timing belt.Do maint
and this car will last.I have a 97 accord with 175,000 miles,getting ready
to do complete timing belt service.Also buy oil filter from dealer

 

Honda automatic transmissions are the easiest cars on the market when
it comes to fluid changes. A 3/8" ratchet is all you need to remove
the bolt, and the only part other than the fluid is a 14 mm aluminum
crush washer (same as the oil). There's no filter. I'd recommend
genuine Honda ATF, even though it's pricier. It's around 2.5-4
quarts per change (check the manual).

If it comes with long-life spark plugs, I wouldn't bother having it
changed before the scheduled time. If you have the tools, I'd pull
them out and check the gap and condition. A locking extension will
help. I'm rather wary of the very long fluid change periods though,
and have the feeling they're marketing driven more than anything
else.

 

Just wondering, if you do all the maintenance work yourself, how do you
prove to Honda that the vehicle was maintained if you have a warranty issue?

 

Just wondering, if you do all the maintenance work yourself, how do you
prove to Honda that the vehicle was maintained if you have a warranty issue?

 

If you do it yourself and want to ensure you've done the proper maintenance,
or if you want to know what the dealer gets paid for, check the following
maintenance schedule of recommended service directly from Honda. This
schedule is for "normal service". There is a more intensive schedule for
"severe service". If you want to know what that is just email me or request
it here in the NG.
I'm not advocating you bring it to the dealer, or that they are a bargain,
but most people don't know the extent of what really is recommended and what
your dealer does or should do. Also, most people don't realize the value of
preventive maintenance which can catch problems before they become failures
and leave you stranded on the side of the road. Most independents aren't as
complete either. If you bring it anywhere to get done, make sure this is
what they do.
I hope this helps.
Howard
o Replace engine oil. -Capacity with filter change: 4.3 l (4.5 US qt, 3.8
Imp qt)

o Rotate tires. Follow the pattern shown in the Owner's Manual -Check tire
inflation and condition.

o Replace engine oil filter.

o Inspect front and rear brakes.

a.. Check pads and discs for wear (thickness), damage, and cracks.

b.. Check calipers for damage, leaks, and tightness of mount bolts.

c.. Check brake lining for cracking, glazing, wear, and contamination.

d.. Check wheel cylinders for leaks.

o Check parking brake adjustment. Should be fully applied within 6 to 9
clicks (disc brake) or within 4 to 7 clicks (drum brake).

o Inspect tie rod ends, steering gearbox, and rack boots for damage and
leaking grease and fluid.

a.. Check steering linkage for looseness.

b.. Check boots for damage and leaking grease.

o Inspect suspension components.

a.. Check bolts for tightness.

b.. Check condition of ball joint boots for deterioration and damage.

o Inspect driveshaft boots. Check boots for cracks and boot bands for
tightness.

o Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). -Check the master cylinder,
proportioning control valve, and ABS modulator for damage and leakage.

o Check all fluid levels and condition of fluids; check for leaks. If
necessary, add Honda ATF-Z1 or MTF, engine coolant, brake fluid, and
windshield washer fluid.

o Inspect cooling system hoses and connections.

a.. Check for damage, leaks, and deterioration.

b.. Check for proper fan operation.

o Inspect exhaust system* . Check catalytic converter heat shield, exhaust
pipe, and muffler for damage, leaks, and tightness.

o Inspect fuel lines and connections*. Check for loose connections, cracks
and deterioration; retighten loose connections and replace damaged parts.

o Replace air cleaner element.

o Inspect and adjust drive belts.

a.. Look for cracks and damage, then check belt deflection by pushing on
it (about 22 lbs) midway between the pulleys.

- Alternator belt: 10.5-12.5 mm (0.41-0.49 in.)

- P/S pump belt: 13.0-16.0 mm (0.51-0.63 in.)

- A/C compressor belt: 7.0-9.0 mm (0.28-0.35 in)

o Replace the dust and pollen filter.

a.. Replace it twice as often (at 15,000 mile interval) if the vehicle is
driven mostly in urban areas that have high concentrations of soot in the
air from industry and diesel-powered vehicles.

b.. Replace it whenever airflow from the climate control system is less
than normal.

 

If you do it yourself and want to ensure you've done the proper maintenance,
or if you want to know what the dealer gets paid for, check the following
maintenance schedule of recommended service directly from Honda. This
schedule is for "normal service". There is a more intensive schedule for
"severe service". If you want to know what that is just email me or request
it here in the NG.
I'm not advocating you bring it to the dealer, or that they are a bargain,
but most people don't know the extent of what really is recommended and what
your dealer does or should do. Also, most people don't realize the value of
preventive maintenance which can catch problems before they become failures
and leave you stranded on the side of the road. Most independents aren't as
complete either. If you bring it anywhere to get done, make sure this is
what they do.
I hope this helps.
Howard
o Replace engine oil. -Capacity with filter change: 4.3 l (4.5 US qt, 3.8
Imp qt)

o Rotate tires. Follow the pattern shown in the Owner's Manual -Check tire
inflation and condition.

o Replace engine oil filter.

o Inspect front and rear brakes.

a.. Check pads and discs for wear (thickness), damage, and cracks.

b.. Check calipers for damage, leaks, and tightness of mount bolts.

c.. Check brake lining for cracking, glazing, wear, and contamination.

d.. Check wheel cylinders for leaks.

o Check parking brake adjustment. Should be fully applied within 6 to 9
clicks (disc brake) or within 4 to 7 clicks (drum brake).

o Inspect tie rod ends, steering gearbox, and rack boots for damage and
leaking grease and fluid.

a.. Check steering linkage for looseness.

b.. Check boots for damage and leaking grease.

o Inspect suspension components.

a.. Check bolts for tightness.

b.. Check condition of ball joint boots for deterioration and damage.

o Inspect driveshaft boots. Check boots for cracks and boot bands for
tightness.

o Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). -Check the master cylinder,
proportioning control valve, and ABS modulator for damage and leakage.

o Check all fluid levels and condition of fluids; check for leaks. If
necessary, add Honda ATF-Z1 or MTF, engine coolant, brake fluid, and
windshield washer fluid.

o Inspect cooling system hoses and connections.

a.. Check for damage, leaks, and deterioration.

b.. Check for proper fan operation.

o Inspect exhaust system* . Check catalytic converter heat shield, exhaust
pipe, and muffler for damage, leaks, and tightness.

o Inspect fuel lines and connections*. Check for loose connections, cracks
and deterioration; retighten loose connections and replace damaged parts.

o Replace air cleaner element.

o Inspect and adjust drive belts.

a.. Look for cracks and damage, then check belt deflection by pushing on
it (about 22 lbs) midway between the pulleys.

- Alternator belt: 10.5-12.5 mm (0.41-0.49 in.)

- P/S pump belt: 13.0-16.0 mm (0.51-0.63 in.)

- A/C compressor belt: 7.0-9.0 mm (0.28-0.35 in)

o Replace the dust and pollen filter.

a.. Replace it twice as often (at 15,000 mile interval) if the vehicle is
driven mostly in urban areas that have high concentrations of soot in the
air from industry and diesel-powered vehicles.

b.. Replace it whenever airflow from the climate control system is less
than normal.

 

That's an important question. A friend of mine had a Toyota pickup that he
took to the dealer just before the warranty was up because the engine smoked
at start-up. The dealer's mechanic said the engine was varnished because of
inadequate attention to oil changes. Marty showed them the receipts for the
oil but they said it didn't prove the oil went into the truck, or if so,
when.

Logging the service in the vehicle record probably will get you farther, but
the same thing can happen. For my part, I do the maintenance and don't buy
extended warranties. Others may feel differently.

Mike

 

That's an important question. A friend of mine had a Toyota pickup that he
took to the dealer just before the warranty was up because the engine smoked
at start-up. The dealer's mechanic said the engine was varnished because of
inadequate attention to oil changes. Marty showed them the receipts for the
oil but they said it didn't prove the oil went into the truck, or if so,
when.

Logging the service in the vehicle record probably will get you farther, but
the same thing can happen. For my part, I do the maintenance and don't buy
extended warranties. Others may feel differently.

Mike