2001 Accord using Oil

I have a 2001 Accord EX, 4 Cyl, 5-speed with 115,000 miles. Recently I
have been using a quart of oil every 750 miles. I have changed the oil
regularly with 5w-20w oil every 6,000 miles since it was new. It is
not leaking under the hood or onto the ground. It doesn't smoke
either.

Is this a correctable problem or should I get rid of this car ?
Does anyone else have this problem ?
Any suggestions.

Thanks,

 

Any sludge? Pull the valve cover and check.

Any blue smoke out the tailpipe?

 

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Change the PCV . . It's probably stuck open (because the spring broke)
and now it's allowing the intake to suck the oil vapor from the
crankcase on a wholesale basis. It's a DIY job, but get the Honda one,
and the parts guy can show you a picture of where it's located. It's
usually on top of the valve cover.

'Curly'

 

Hi Curly,

I have a similar problem with 2000 accord with oil. What do you mean by
change PCV. The PCV valve? What do you mean by DIY job? I do have the
shop manual. Can I do it myself, without much tools. Thanks. Sai

 

DIY = Do It Yourself.

 

PCV valve = positive crankcase ventilation valve. It's in a pipe that
connects the engine crankcase to the air intake. In my Chilton's, it's
discussed in section 4, "emissions control."

Its malfunction should not only cause oil leakage/consumption problems, but
also affect fuel mileage.

On many Hondas, it's easy to get to, requiring only the proper size socket
and maybe a wrench extender to then remove. It looks super easy to get to on
your 2000 Accord.

Go to http://www.slhonda.com/orderparts.jsp , put your car info in, and go
to the engine then "breather tube" sections to get a drawing showing its
location.

One can do a test to see if it works: Pinch the tube connected to it. If
after about 30 seconds, you hear a click, then it's at least somewhat
operational.

Buy only a new, OEM one. It's worth the few extra bucks. www.slhonda.com
sells it for $13 plus around $7 max for shipping and handling. A dealer
should be willing to sell you one for $20 or so.

 

-------------------------------

You forgot another definition . . OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer
(buy the little sucker at a Honda dealer)

'Curly'

 

I used to profane acroynyms not first spelled out in a post or article.

I am picking up bad habits, getting lazy, and forgetting about the newbies.

 

Hi 'Elle',

Thanks for your pointer for the part. In the diagram it shows two
number 7s at the airflow tube. I guess it is only one. Right?

17130-PK1-003 VALVE ASSY., PCV $13.00 $3.05

<<< Its malfunction should not only cause oil leakage/consumption
problems, but
also affect fuel mileage.>>> You are right. I used to get 32-34mpg with
5spd-MT. Now I am getting only 27-29mpg.

<<<One can do a test to see if it works: Pinch the tube connected to
it. If
after about 30 seconds, you hear a click, then it's at least somewhat
operational. >>> I guess, this test should be done when the engine is
running. Right?

Thanks a bunch

 

I'm not sure what you're looking at, but when I put in 2001 Accord 4-door
DX, manual transmission, number 7 on the drawing goes with two clips as
follows:

95002-41300-04 CLIP, TUBE (D13.0) $1.07 $0.24

The PCV valve is the part you give below and is labeled number 2 on the
drawing.

I recommend buying a new grommet ($2, and part number 5 in the drawing),
also. If it leaks (and they do sometime), it will mess up the engine
system's operation. Not all Honda PCV valves use such a grommet, but your
Honda does.

(I'm pretty sure all the 4-cylinder models of the 2001 Accord use the same
PCV valve.)

Note that one can scroll over a part number on the drawing, click on it, and
the part name and other info come up.

 

<<< One can do a test to see if it works: Pinch the tube connected to
it. If
after about 30 seconds, you hear a click, then it's at least somewhat
operational. >>>

ELLE: I did do this test at idle speed. I pinched the tube connected to
it. I hear a click right away, and not after 30seconds, does that mean
it is OK???

 

I should have clarified that, if one hears the click, then this test is not
conclusive. If you had heard NO click, then the valve is definitely not
working and should be replaced.

Now, you heard the click, but that doesn't necessarily mean the valve
operates optimally. It has a spring in it, for example, and that will wear
with time, so the valve doesn't operate the way it did when new.

When pinching the tube for the PCV valve on my 1991 Civic it seems to take
around 30 seconds. But your 2000 Accord's PCV valve and mine are very
different, both in location and design. (They still have the same general
purose, though.)

But can you describe the engine oil loss with a little more detail? For
example:

Have you inspected the engine just below the cylinder head cover (a.k.a.
valve cover)? If work has been done such that the valve cover had to be
removed and replaced, sometimes a leak will follow at its gasket. Have you
noticed fuel mileage declining? That would be another symptom of the PCV
valve failing.

Do you change the engine oil religiously? Failing to do so may tend to muck
up (and so cause to fail) the PCV valve sooner rather than later.

Can you describe your loss of engine oil more exactly? How much do you lose
over what time period? Do you see any oil spots on the ground where the car
is parked? Have you checked the tightness of the oil drain plug?

 

2000 Accord EX, 4Cyl, 5Spd, MT, 60000mi. The click happens as soon as I
pinch. In any case I am going to replace the PCV and grommet, since it
was never changed since new, and see if it improves the gas mileage
from 28mpg to 32mpg. I do change oil at every 6K and not 3K. I have
never looked under the car for leaks. I'll let you know of any
performance change after one tank of gas. Thanks.

 

I assume you are using conventional ( = NON-synthetic) oil. Unless you're
driving under really severe conditions, I would think 6k miles/6 months is
fine and shouldn't gum up the PCV valve too quickly.

Doesn't the owner's manual say more like 7.5k miles/6 months, anyway?

 

If it clicks immediately, its not clogged. I'm pretty sure this is not the
silver bullet you are looking for. Certainly not 4 mpg worth.

Check the hose itself to make sure it is not cracked or leaking. On my
Odyssey, the valve was fine, it was the hose that went bad.

A 4 MPG drop is more likely to be caused by a bad knock sensor or O2 sensor.