2004 Accord heater temperature?

Discussion in 'Accord' started by Chris Aseltine, Jan 26, 2004.

  1. Chris Aseltine

    TL Guest

    Well it may be normal for Hondas, but not so any other car I've owned.
    Once warmed up, my 95 Camry would sit rock solid at the half way
    engine temperature mark regardless of whether I was idling for long
    periods, driving hard, or just tooling around town. You did get a
    *little* extra heat when idling if you just reved up the engine for a
    brief period. That had nothing to do with the temperature; it just
    speeded up the water pump and moved hot water through the heater coil
    more quickly. Same with my Volvo. Same with my Mazda. Same with my
    Dodge Caravan. I've never experienced a temperature gauge dropping
    while idling. That's a part of what themostats are supposed to
    control.
     
    TL, Feb 3, 2004
    #21
  2. I didn't say the coolant temperature would change. What I said is that under
    load, the engine produces more heat. This is true for your Camry, Volvo,
    Mazda, or any other vehicle that has an internal combustion engine.

    Here is what happens:

    - Engine at idle. Not very much heat produced. In order to maintain constant
    coolant temperature, thermostat closes, causing limited coolant flow. Not
    much heat is getting to the heater core, so not much heat in the cabin.

    - Engine under load. Much heat is being produced. Thermostat opens, allowing
    lots of coolant flow, transporting heat from engine to radiator. Coolant
    temperature remains constant, but because of the overall flow rate of the
    coolant, lots more heat energy is being moved away from the engine, both to
    the radiator and to the heater core, thereby causing much more heat to be
    available in the cabin.

    End result is that when you accelerate hard, you will get more heat in the
    cabin, within seconds. Which is what the original question was about.
     
    Scott MacLean, Feb 3, 2004
    #22
  3. I have an 02 Accord SE 4cyl and have observed this when extremely cold
    outside. Usually only happens during the start of my drive. Once the
    engine has gotten to temp I have never seen it come down. I have even
    had it happen with cold inside cabin and air on recirc.

    This goes ditto with my wife's 03 Civic LX, if it is cold enough the
    coolant temp gage will drop when at a stop until the engine has
    reached it's normal temp, once there it stays.
     
    Douglas Anderson, Feb 3, 2004
    #23
  4. Chris Aseltine

    TL Guest

    Yes and no.

    Engine at idle and the thermostat should close partially. That
    restricts the flow of water to the radiator, but has no impact on the
    flow of water to the heater. The speed of the engine does affect the
    water pump which affects the flow which is why when you just rev up
    the engine momentarily while idling, you'll see an instant increase in
    heat. It's water flow. That has nothing to do with how much heat is
    being produced by the engine.

    Engine under ANY load above idle, the themostat continues to regulate
    the water temperature, but the water pump is now moving the water at a
    sufficient volume to provide full heater function. Moving the water
    faster only serves to return hotter water back to the engine. It does
    not produce more heat in the cabin.

    So, my point here is that a normally operating themostat (at least in
    the experience with every car I've owned) keeps the engine temperature
    steady whether at idle or cruising speed. The only variable in the
    interior heat equation is the flow of water which is a bit low at
    idle. Heat produced by the engine has no impact on any of this. An
    idle produces far more heat than is required to keep an engine at
    operating temperatures.

    And my earlier point, was the my Honda is the first car I've ever
    owned where the engine temperature gauge drops while idling in cold
    weather. (The earlier poster noted that as well, I think.) That really
    shouldn't happen. Seems to me that one of two things are going on.
    Either the thermostat is not set up correctly to close partially when
    the engine doesn't require as much cooling power, or the temperature
    gauge is mounted in a location that cools down without flow through
    the radiator. A gentle rev of the engine brings heat inside (as per
    above) and the gauge goes up quickly as well. That suggests to me that
    under low flow conditions, the water is not circulating very well
    around the sensor. If it really were that the themostat was letting
    the water cool down that much, it would take time for the temperature
    gauge to climb back up. The engine could not possibly heat up and
    transfer new heat to all that water with a 5 second rev of the engine.

    Bottom line is that you get an instant surge of heat when you rev up
    an idling engine due to increased water flow, not because the engine
    heats up.
     
    TL, Feb 3, 2004
    #24
  5. Hmmm, different mfrs rig their temp gauges differently - Honda has a
    plateau of zero needle response from 85C to 100C; it would not surprise me
    to learn that others have an even bigger plateau - it's not a precision
    gauge. if you want to read your engine temp accurately you need a full
    response needle but that'd probably scare the shit out of most buyers... to
    see it oscillate so much.

    It *may* have something to do with the Honda aluminum block as well which
    is not really a block in the same sense as most other mfrs; the Camry has a
    cast iron block. Then, as mentioned by someone else, there's the position
    of the temp gauge - Honda's are on the end of the cylinder head, under the
    distributor where they essentially read the temp of the coolant on its way
    out to the radiator... so if you're running the heater (essentially a
    mini-radiator/fan) in extreme cold, so that the thermostat is closed, there
    is no appreciable outgoing coolant there anyway.

    BTW I certainly recall that the 70s thru mid-80s VWs I owned had very poor
    heating in extreme cold, even when cruising on the freeway at 70mph or so.

    Rgds, George Macdonald

    "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
     
    George Macdonald, Feb 4, 2004
    #25
  6. Chris Aseltine

    TL Guest

    That's interesting. I think the positioning may in fact be what is
    causing these variations. Engine temperatures just don't vary that
    much and that rapidly, in my experience.

    Those old air-cooled VW's were great little cars, but the heat was
    awful.
     
    TL, Feb 4, 2004
    #26
  7. And deadly. A buddy in high school had one where the exhaust gas heat
    exchanger was rusted through and you'd darn near get CO poisoning!
     
    Shawn Barnhart, Feb 4, 2004
    #27
  8. Chris Aseltine

    TL Guest

    Luckily the defrosters worked badly as well, meaning that you often
    had to have the window open to keep the fog down ... : - )
     
    TL, Feb 4, 2004
    #28
  9. Well no - I was talking about Rabbits/Jettas. Actually the Beetles, from
    ~1962, had gobs of heat from the exhaust heat exchangers - the trouble was
    you couldn't regulate the airflow and its temperature independently.

    Rgds, George Macdonald

    "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
     
    George Macdonald, Feb 5, 2004
    #29
  10. Chris Aseltine

    Dick Guest

    I agree. We had a '66 Beetle and operated it in temperatures down to
    45 degrees below 0F. Never a problem getting enough heat. Just as
    George said, difficult to regulate.

    Dick
     
    Dick, Feb 5, 2004
    #30
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