'88 Accord LX (carb) timing belt change issues

Hi all,

Changed the timing belt on my '88 Accord (new to me) in the process of
replacing cam and crank seals now have some questions. On the original
(used) belt (NAPA, part number checked out okay) , I noticed the "T"
pointer on the flywheel did not correspond to the tick marks on the cam
pulley at TDC. Since this was my first Honda, I wasn't even sure I had
a "T" mark. What I found was 3 tick marks for ignition timing. With
those near the TDC pointer, the cam was pretty close to TDC - maybe
"1/2 tooth off". The car ran okay, 31.5 MPG (5 spd, 75-80 on the
freeway). Distributor was in the middle of allowable movement.

When I put the belt back on (I used a genuine Honda) I lined the crank
up to "T" pointer and the cam to TDC too. Looks like the original belt
was 1 tooth off. I fired up the car, it idled at 3000 RPM for a few
seconds and cut out. I moved the distributor around (nothing
scientific) and it idles at 3000 RPM, then stays around 2000 RPM for
1-2 minutes and then the car cuts off.

My question is, do I need to move the belt on the cam gear or can I fix
this with the distributor? I don't have a timing light, guess I need
to get one?

Thanks,
Brian

 

Brian,
I have done a few timing belts and as a last I check timing and
should be okay. If the belt was not installed at the factory, it may
be worth doing before. A significant change would indicate that it
is off a tooth. I won a bet this way; a friend told me he had to ad-
just timing after a timing belt change. He had not put it completely
back together allowing a re-check. Now, I 'm ten bucks richer.

chuck

 

Chuck,

I discovered that the missing PCV valve let a lot of unmetered air into
the engine raising the RPM. Once that was resolved, I used a timing
light to set the timing to 24 BTDC. I am not sure I am getting the
best fuel economy. Any idea what's acceptable for this car? Should I
be in the mid 30's? low 30's?

Brian