88 CRX muffler no threads bolts question

Hey Guys,
Here's the deal, am a girl and like to do minor repairs on my car.
(such a high to get a problemed fixed myself), well, just noticed my
muffler on my 88 CRX si has rusted out a rather large hole. So by
taking a look underneathe, it appeared that 2 bolts needed to be
removed and the muffler and the small pipe leading to the front of the
car would just come off.
Well I have been trying for a long time to get those 2 bolts off.
Wasted a lot of liquid wrench on them to no avail.....when I noticed
the bolts do not have threads on them.

They have springs on the front of them and no threads on the back and
are held on by 12 mm nuts. It's located right behind passenger side
rear wheel, 2 pipes adjoin with an oval type gasket/connector thingy ma
jig. What is this about? I am kind of annoyed at this point. It
seemed like a simple 1,2, 3 job, but no.

Anyway, can you seasoned Honda guys give some advice? Is it possible
to get the muffler off easily or should I just take it to the shop.
Man I hate doing that. I really like fixing it myself.
Anyway, thanks so much.
Oh my car is 1988 Honda CRX Si all stock. 5 spd, 139k miles, 1.6
engine, red, black interior, sunroof, a small shopping car dent in the
right fender.......

Smiles,
Annette

 

Use the penetrating oil "PB Blaster," spraying it as best
you can onto the nuts threads. Capillary action will
actually draw the PB Blaster into the thread region and
break free some of the rust. Wait half an hour or so.
Re-apply. Put a wrench on the nut and another wrench on the
bolt. Turn the wrench on the nut.

Exhaust system nuts and bolts tend to freeze more than
others on a car, due to the heat cycling and seeing moisture
underneath the car from the road.

Once you free those two bolts/nuts, you're right the rest
should come off pretty easily.

The car will sound funny but will be drivable. A muffler
shop should have a suitable replacement. Get a new gasket
for the flange you separated above.

Way to go, doing this yourself. It is indeed a great
feeling.

 

Use the penetrating oil "PB Blaster," spraying it as best
you can onto the nuts threads. Capillary action will
actually draw the PB Blaster into the thread region and
break free some of the rust. Wait half an hour or so.
Re-apply. Put a wrench on the nut and another wrench on the
bolt. Turn the wrench on the nut.

Exhaust system nuts and bolts tend to freeze more than
others on a car, due to the heat cycling and seeing moisture
underneath the car from the road.

Once you free those two bolts/nuts, you're right the rest
should come off pretty easily.

The car will sound funny but will be drivable. A muffler
shop should have a suitable replacement. Get a new gasket
for the flange you separated above.

Way to go, doing this yourself. It is indeed a great
feeling.

 

New bolts too. The nuts should be available in brass, copper-coated or
similar rust-resistant alloy. Paint the threads liberally with Permatex
Anti-Seize Lubricant or a similar product before reassembly. Get new rubber
hangers. The pros heat the old nuts with a welding torch, or just burn them
right off. A propane plumbing torch works OK, if you are patient and don't
set yourself on fire. Heat the nuts, spray on Liquid Wrench, wait a while.

(Liquid Wrench, brand name, is a good product. There are many imitations,
some not as good. PB Blaster is also good. WD40 is better for keeping
water out of things, than as a penetrating oil.)

Earle

 

New bolts too. The nuts should be available in brass, copper-coated or
similar rust-resistant alloy. Paint the threads liberally with Permatex
Anti-Seize Lubricant or a similar product before reassembly. Get new rubber
hangers. The pros heat the old nuts with a welding torch, or just burn them
right off. A propane plumbing torch works OK, if you are patient and don't
set yourself on fire. Heat the nuts, spray on Liquid Wrench, wait a while.

(Liquid Wrench, brand name, is a good product. There are many imitations,
some not as good. PB Blaster is also good. WD40 is better for keeping
water out of things, than as a penetrating oil.)

Earle

 

I confess, muffler work is something I take to a muffler shop. (I've been
lucky to live where I have recommendations to great shops.) The heat and
rust make the hardware really stubborn, and the pieces tend to rust/weld
themselves together also. Aargh!

However, it is possible if you are determined enough. Elle's advice will get
you through, but I'd like to add that leather gloves are very valuable when
working with the exhaust pieces. Cotton gloves are better than nothing. The
edges tend to be sharp.

Mike

 

I confess, muffler work is something I take to a muffler shop. (I've been
lucky to live where I have recommendations to great shops.) The heat and
rust make the hardware really stubborn, and the pieces tend to rust/weld
themselves together also. Aargh!

However, it is possible if you are determined enough. Elle's advice will get
you through, but I'd like to add that leather gloves are very valuable when
working with the exhaust pieces. Cotton gloves are better than nothing. The
edges tend to be sharp.

Mike