89 accord timing

Discussion in 'Accord' started by los via CarKB.com, Sep 10, 2006.

  1. I hope someone can help me figure out this issue with my 89 accord lxi sedan
    timing. It knocks in hot weather and I want to retard the vac advance a
    little more. The timing is supposed to be 15+/-2 btdc with hoses on. The
    most I can retard it is about 16-17 degrees, barely in range. with vac
    hoses disconnected and plugged it is supposed to be 4btdc, but at the proper
    vac advance, I am at TDC. Does anyone know how to back off the vac advance
    without affecting the plugged (no-vac) advance?
     
    los via CarKB.com, Sep 10, 2006
    #1
  2. Actually, I am getting a funny feeling. Pinging isn't a normal thing in '89
    Hondas (or at least we don't hear a lot about it), so I'm wondering what is
    going on. You shouldn't have to mess with the advance.

    Did it always do this or did it start after some work was done (or maybe the
    car is fairly new to you and the history is unknown)? Is the temperature
    guage reading normal - whatever it reads in cool weather? Finally, to ensure
    the problem is detonation (which is affected by timing) and not pre-ignition
    from hot spots (which is not affected by timing), you can run the tank down
    fairly low and refill with premium. If the knocking is the same with premium
    timing changes won't affect it and you will have to pursue decarbonizing. Of
    course, if the engine is running hot in hot weather that is the place to
    start.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Sep 10, 2006
    #2
  3. los via CarKB.com

    Matt Ion Guest

    Good thinking, Mike... another thing to keep in mind when adjusting the timing
    is that the vacuum increases with RPM, and thus advances the timing further.
    It's important that the engine be at the specified idle when checking and
    adjusting the timing - on your car, depending on the exact engine, it should
    probably be around 700-800 rpm.
     
    Matt Ion, Sep 11, 2006
    #3
  4. Mike / Matt:
    Thanks for responding. History. Bought used in 1994 with 55k miles. I had
    a good garage do the 60k service at 72k. I had a schlock garage do the 120k
    service at 140k. I assumed that they did the coolant. They did not. It
    went acid and killed the cooling system. I replaced the radiator, thermostat,
    water pump, and hoses and flushed the rusty water as well as I could, but too
    late. I cracked the head at 186k. Got a rebuilt head and new pistons and
    cylinders installed. A radiator cap that could not suction from the overflow
    led to coolant loss and a blown head gasket at 212k. I replaced the head
    gasket myself and blew out about 2 quarts of rusty crap from the block in the
    process. Very little carbon on the head (especailly number 1 and 2 where the
    gasket blew). The temp gage stays low even when blowing head gaskets. Now
    at 218k it runs great, but it knocks as always going up hills in the heat.
    High octane gas does quiet the knocks. To hit Matt's question, I checked the
    timing at about 800-850 rpm. It bogs a little when I check the no-vac
    advance. If I set it any more advanced than the maximum retard I can get, it
    knocks worse. Most of the time it runs fine. It just knocks briefly if I do
    jack-rabbit shifting or knocks pulling grades in dry heat.

    Incidentally, I am replacing they front crank seal tomorrow. Why did I not
    do that with the new head gasket? A mechanic convinced me that hondas never
    leak from the crank seal even when they are bad. I replaced the water pump
    seal and oil pump seal so I think it must be the crank seal, so it's back
    under the hood for me. The timing thing still confuses me.

    -Carlos

     
    los via CarKB.com, Sep 11, 2006
    #4
  5. los via CarKB.com

    Matt Ion Guest

    Only other thing I can think of, is if the ignitor/stator assembly (inside the
    distributor) is loose, or the air gap between the stator and reluctor (the
    components that provide the actual timing signal) is too small and is thus
    triggering the timing too soon...

    I can't find an actual spec for the air gap, but there's a diagram of it here,
    to give you an idea of what you're looking at:
    http://moltenimage.com/freebies/g3accord/engine_electrical/24-14.JPG

    If the stator is loose or out of place, it could also be affecting the timing.
    There's a brief bit on checking and adusting it here as well:
    http://moltenimage.com/freebies/g3accord/engine_electrical/24-8.JPG
     
    Matt Ion, Sep 11, 2006
    #5
  6. los via CarKB.com

    jay420 Guest

    you should post to message boards at:
    www.3geez.com

    That is the site for 3rd generation Accords.
     
    jay420, Sep 19, 2006
    #6
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