90 Accord Front Suspension Rebuild Contd

Discussion in 'Accord' started by Guest, Jul 3, 2006.

  1. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Let's talk front struts for just a minute... the strut is secured at the top
    with three 14mm nuts that tighten against the inner fender well. At the
    bottom, it is held in place by the damper fork. There is a pinch bolt at
    the top rear of the damper fork that holds the fork/strut in place. The
    other end of the damper fork bolts to the lower control arm with a 17mm
    through-bolt and nut.

    I'm omitting some of the removal details here... once you've got the strut
    out, look carefully at how it's assembled. Note that the center space
    between the square mounting brackets (where the brake line attaches) a
    little way up from the bottom of the strut is in line with a small
    rectangular square of rubber protruding at the bottom edge of the damper
    mounting base. Before you attempt to disassemble the strut/coil spring,
    take some nail polish or chalk and mark the spring coils from the top to the
    bottom so that there is a straight line down the side of the coil spring
    from the rubber square at the top to the bottom coil in line with the center
    space between the square brackets. Note also that the end of the bottom or
    last coil is dead against the stop on the strut.

    Notice that the strut has another set of hooked-shaped brackets for brake
    line attachment opposite or to the rear of the square brackets. At the top
    you will see a small rectangular indention in the bottom edge of the damper
    mounting base that lines up perfectly with the center space of the
    hook-shaped brackets. Also up at the top, you see that one of the long
    sides of the triangular-shaped spaces between the mounting bolts is at 90
    degrees from the line you made on the spring and from the lower square
    brackets space. All this alignment is what we want when we put it back
    together. It is essential.

    Now let's take the thing apart hopefully without injury to us or to the
    part. A good set of two spring compressors is essential to do this. You
    want to put them on so that the adjusting head of the compressor faces the
    bottom of the strut. Also, you will need another person to help you do
    this. Tools needed include the aforementioned spring compressors, an air
    compressor, impact wrench, a regular pry bar, an extra large pry bar, 14mm
    socket, a 17mm deep socket, a 5mm allen wrench, maybe a 17mm open end
    wrench, torque wrench, a rubber mallet, some chalk or nail polish and maybe
    a few other things.

    Start by having a good working space available. Then lay the strut down so
    that the square brackets at the bottom are facing up. Have your
    partner/helper put the regular pry bar down between the coils at a point
    about one or two coils below the top. Have the helper twist the pry bar so
    the coils are forced apart. Then you can insert the lower ends of the
    compressors while the coils are open. Once you get that done, go to the
    other end and have your helper put the pry bar between the coils at the
    bottom of the strut at a point about one or two coils from the spring
    bottom. Once the coils are open, slip the compressors in. If the
    compressors have safety clips, push them in now. What you should have is a
    strut/coil spring with two spring compressors attached and directly across
    from each other with the top ends or adjusting ends of the compressors
    facing the bottom of the strut/coil spring.

    Get the correct socket size for the spring compressor ends and a ratchet and
    start tightening up. Tighen a certain amount on one compressor, then switch
    and do the same amount on the other compressor. You will be able to tell
    when the coils start to shorten; the ratchet gets steadily harder to work.
    Pull the coils down in compression so that there is about a 1/2" or less
    between them.

    Take the air wrench and the 17mm deep socket and set the wrench to loosen.
    Put the socket on the nut at the top of the strut and let fly. It may take
    a couple or three loosenings to get the nut all the way off. If you don't
    have an air compressor and an impact wrench, insert the end of the 5mm allen
    wrench into the top of the strut rod to keep it from turning as you loosen
    the nut with a 17mm open end wrench and remove the nut by hand.

    You will want to lay the parts out in order as you take them off the
    strut/spring. First off is the nut, then washer, then damper mounting
    base( there's a sleeve and a rubber bumper in it), then a very small washer,
    then a large dust cover plate (washer), then the dust cover, then the
    stopper. That's how it was on our car. Yours may vary but it should be
    close to that.

    Remove the restraining wire on the replacement strut. Take the replacement
    bellows and assemble the bumper in the bellows, then slide the bellows on
    the new strut rod with the bumper facing to the top and put the works into
    the coil spring. Put the dust cover plate (washer) back on, the small
    washer, the damper mounting base, the washer and the replacement nut. Make
    sure everything lines up. Double check your mark, the bottom brackets and
    the little rubber square and make certain that it's all in alignment.

    Don't be surprised if it's difficult to get the damper mounting base on the
    strut rod in exactly the right position. Just keep working at it and it
    will happen. Make sure too that the end of the bottom coil is against the
    stop on the strut.

    Once it's all in line, get the impact wrench and the 17mm deep socket and
    drive the nut down on the strut. Or use the allen wrench and the open end
    and tighten it up. There should be about an inch or so of threads showing
    on the strut rod when it's tight. Now remove the spring compressors.

    If you are rebuilding the front suspension, installation of the strut will
    probably go easier if it's done before the steering knuckle is replaced.
    Whether the knuckle is in place or not, take some kitchen dish soap and lube
    the top of the damper fork and the bottom of the strut. If you removed it,
    the damper fork goes on with the pinch bolt behind the strut. Then put the
    strut back in place. If your prior alignment is correct, the strut goes on
    with the square brackets facing out directly behind the steering knuckle.
    Put the top bolts through the holes in the fender well and have your helper
    put the nuts on loosely while you support the strut below. Then bring the
    damper fork up and move the strut bottom over so that the fork slides up
    over the strut. Push up on the fork as best you can and wiggle it
    vigorously to make it go up on the strut. Using an extra large pry bar will
    help if the suspension parts are in place and if the assembly proves
    difficult. Slide the pry bar behind the backing plate down on top of the
    stabilizer and under the bracket behind the lower control arm and push down
    to get some leeway for getting the damper fork and strut together.

    Once you get the damper fork onto the strut, get the mounting holes of the
    fork and the lower control arm lined up and replace the through-bolt and
    nut. The head of the bolt faces the front of the car with the nut to the
    rear. The 17mm nut torques to 47 ft. pounds, and you will need an opposing
    wrench to tighten. Replace the pinch bolt, again head to the front, tighten
    to 32 ft. pounds, replace the nuts on the damper mounting base and tighten
    to 28 ft. pounds.

    Take a break and get something cool to drink. Congratulate yourself and
    your helper for doing a job that would set you back at least $450 if a shop
    did it for you.

    More later...

    prvtlewis
     
    Guest, Jul 3, 2006
    #1
  2. Guest

    jim beam Guest

    nospam wrote:
    <snip>

    ok, stop right there.

    1. you're not using the correct tools.

    2. your working practice is liable to lead to serious personal injury.

    3. springs are highly notch sensitive in fatigue, and messing them about
    like this is likely to lead to subsequent spring failure - if not for
    you, for a subsequent owner. do NOT treat springs like this. ever.

    get the correct spring compressor for this vehicle. different types
    exist. you have to get one that fits a tight coil spring like a honda
    WITHOUT PERSONAL INJURY RISK, and secondarily, damage to the spring. if
    you can't get one, take the struts to a shop that does.

    bottom line dude, your story is irresponsible dangerous garbage. quit
    writing it.
     
    jim beam, Jul 3, 2006
    #2
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