90 accord stalling, code 41 43

Discussion in 'Accord' started by runderwo, Feb 1, 2007.

  1. runderwo

    runderwo Guest

    I had some lean stalling on the interstate then the computer threw a
    code, and everything was fine after that for few hundred miles. The
    code is 41 and 43. 41 is listed as O2 sensor and 43 as lean mix. Is
    the lean mix the cause or the effect of the O2 sensor code?
     
    runderwo, Feb 1, 2007
    #1
  2. runderwo

    julia.albath Guest

    So I'm still stuck with the code 41, after replacing the O2 sensor and
    recetting the ECM.

    I measured 13.39V across the heater at the open end harness, and a 10
    ohm resistance of the O2 sensor. The replacement is a Bosch...

    This is an EX where the O2 sensor is in the exhaust pipe.

    I'm stumped.
     
    julia.albath, Mar 17, 2007
    #2
  3. Get that Bosch sensor out of there and put an OEM sensor in its place.
     
    High Tech Misfit, Mar 18, 2007
    #3
  4. runderwo

    motsco_ Guest

    -----------------------------

    If you search this NG, I recall more than one person who tried multiple
    sensors from bosch, then put in a good OEM and solved the problem.

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_, Mar 18, 2007
    #4
  5. runderwo

    runderwo Guest

    For a code 41? The circuit seems fairly "dumb" so it's hard to
    imagine what could be Bosched in it. The previous OEM sensor was
    throwing a code 41 too..... the difference that I see is that the OEM
    reads 16 ohms and the Bosch reads much less... but code 41
    nonetheless. It's expensive to play part swapping with these things
    because they don't take returns.
     
    runderwo, Mar 19, 2007
    #5
  6. runderwo

    jim beam Guest

    ??? that won't make a difference? besides, this is a single wire
    sensor - what are you testing with the ohm meter - it's not the heater
    circuit because single wire sensors don't have one.
    indeed. that's why people that have experience pay once for the oem
    sensor, not multiple times for aftermarket. if price is the issue, go
    to a junk yard - you can often pick up nearly-new oem sensors dirt cheap.
     
    jim beam, Mar 20, 2007
    #6
  7. runderwo

    runderwo Guest

    It's a four wire sensor. Heater, heater ground, signal, signal
    ground. Supposedly isolated from the chassis too since it has a
    separate signal ground, but that's probably worth a check next time
    I'm under it.
    Why would a junkyard sensor be nearly-new? A good idea, anyway, I'll
    grab me a few more to play with.
     
    runderwo, Mar 20, 2007
    #7
  8. runderwo

    Tegger Guest



    You should not have a 4-wire sensor in that car. You should have a single-
    wire sensor.

    You've either got the wrong engine and/or ECU in there, or the wiring loom
    has been hacked about to provide the grounds and feed for the heater on a
    later-model sensor. Either way, it's might be wise to look elsewhere for
    your ostensible sensor problem.

    Have you considered that the sensor may have the wrong electrical
    characteristics for the ECU it's married to?
     
    Tegger, Mar 20, 2007
    #8
  9. runderwo

    runderwo Guest

    It has a 4 wire harness. Look it up on any parts site if you don't
    believe me (this is an EX, it's not a sensor that goes into the
    manifold, it goes into the top of the down pipe). It worked at one
    point... then we fixed a burned valve, then after I saw the code 43
    (which I haven't seen since, nor have I experienced the sputtering/
    stalling that happened on that one road trip), the OEM sensor started
    throwing a code 41... and now so does the new Bosch.
    Yeah, but I don't know where to look. The only thing I could have
    come up with is that the OEM sensor shorted to ground on the heater
    and blew a fuse. But as far as I can tell from the wiring diagrams,
    the fuel injectors are fed off the same supply, so if the fuse was
    gone (tested it anyway, it's good) then the injectors would have no
    supply. Then I made damn sure by checking voltage at the pig tail
    with the ignition on, sure enough, there's battery voltage there. The
    thing is, the code 43 and 41 showed up at the same time to begin
    with. So it's possible that something went screwy with that circuit,
    shutting off the injectors which threw the 43 lean downstream code at
    the same time as interrupting the O2 heater circuit. But I can't
    fathom what event would do that...
    Yes. That's what I am trying to figure out to get to the bottom of
    this. What in the world is the ECM measuring to determine that it's
    time to throw a code 41?
     
    runderwo, Mar 21, 2007
    #9
  10. runderwo

    runderwo Guest

    OK, so I thought about it a little more, since the heater circuit
    ground goes through the ECM, then it is probably measuring the current
    through the heater. So an internal leak to ground inside the sensor,
    or incorrect impedance in the heater would affect the current that the
    ECM sees. Can you think of anything else to check?
     
    runderwo, Mar 21, 2007
    #10
  11. runderwo

    Tegger Guest



    OBD-II ECMs do measure current from the heater wire. That's how it knows if
    the heater's malfunctioning. However, I don't know if pre-OBD-II ECUs
    monitored the heater wire or simply provided ground.

    I had a better look at the manuals I've got, and it appears my original
    conclusion was wrong: Your car DID originally come with a 4-wire sensor.



    Corrosion at the connector, high wire resistance, I don't know what all
    else.

    If you post your question to the group rec.autos.tech, there is at least
    one extremely knowledgeable and experienced technician (Comboverfish) who
    posts there. He would be the best one to answer this one, as he has large
    amounts of Honda experience.
     
    Tegger, Mar 22, 2007
    #11
  12. runderwo

    jim beam Guest

    three things:

    1. if this vehicle is a 1990, as it says in your heading, then the
    engine computer is expecting to see a single wire sensor. the only way
    a 1990 accord would have 4-wire is if the vehicle has been converted for
    some reason. and a 90 accord is not a typical candidate for that kind
    of effort. if this is a 90 vehicle, and you think it's been converted,
    you'll need to check the ecu's to be sure.

    2. the two sensor types are very different in operation. you can't use
    a broadband sensor, 4-wire, on a narrow band, single wire, ecu because
    the output signals are not the same, even if you rigged up the heater wires.

    3. many users here report dismal results with bosch sensors. including
    myself.

    bottom line, you can work with us by providing accurate information on
    trying to figure this out, /or/ you can keep us in the dark and keep on
    ignoring what people are telling you and see where it gets you. your call.
     
    jim beam, Mar 22, 2007
    #12
  13. runderwo

    Tegger Guest



    I did a better check of my Helm manual for that model. It did indeed come
    with a 4-wire sensor. So did the Prelude, for that matter.
     
    Tegger, Mar 22, 2007
    #13
  14. runderwo

    jim beam Guest

    i stand corrected. i could have sworn i'd acquired a single wire sensor
    from a 90 accord in a junk yard, but i must have been mistaken.
     
    jim beam, Mar 22, 2007
    #14
  15. runderwo

    runderwo Guest

    Everything else seems fine, so next step is to get rid of the Bosch.
    It's still a mystery why the OEM quit working, but whatever.
     
    runderwo, Mar 23, 2007
    #15
  16. runderwo

    jim beam Guest

    they just do over time. sensor chemistry degrades.
     
    jim beam, Mar 23, 2007
    #16
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