90 Honda accord starting problem

Hi All, we have a 90 accord in the shop that would not start.
After making sure it was not the timing belt,I pulled a plug wire to check
for spark.
With the plug wire off, and a piece of metal in it to check to ground for
spark, there was none, then all of a sudden it started.
At the customers request,we changed the plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor.
Car started and ran fine for a while, but later would not start. Customer
let it sit for a while, and got it started.

Now I recall I had a 87 accord(My own car) about 7 years ago,that did the
exact same thing.. Pull a plug wire off and it would start.
I talked to this mechanic, and he had me change some type of coolant sensor,
and that fixed it.
The car will run as long as you want it to, but just give's us trouble on
restarting.
That was the same way my 87 did too.

But I cant recall just what it was called, or where it was located.
Does any one have an Idea on this problem? or what the sensor is called, and
it's location?
The motor is a 4 cylinder.
Thanks, Tony

 

sounds like a main relay problem.
see www.tegger.com

It's a very common Honda/Acura problem part.

 

----------------------------------------------

Next time it happens (until you get the relay replaced / resoldered) you
can just turn the key to position II and smack the dash or slam the
driver's door. You'll hear the fuel pump run for three seconds and the
engine will now start. The vibration will keep the relay working until
you next shut it off....

It's also temperature related, so cooling the interior of the car
usually works too. That's why it's famous for stranding people at
7-Eleven. You come out of the store and it won't start (interior is hot
from the sun). You come back later and it starts. Sun has gone down in
the meantime.

Don't think of unbolting the relay, just slip it out of it's shell and
take it inside to resolder. Should last the rest of the vehicle's life.

'Curly'

 

Thanks, I'll have him try that

Useful link too, Thanks Jim
Tony

 

Well another guy told him the same thing, about the main relay, told him to
slam the door too, he got it started that way. He replaced the relay and so
far so good!
I opened up the old relay, but could not really see any bad solder joints.
Is this something that you really can't see? You just re solder them any
way?
Also what all years have this main relay?
Thanks, Tony

 

The crack(s) might be very small. Maybe unnoticeable. There are some
pictures on some this showing them (notice the ring around the posts.
That's bad! ) http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm . Just
re-solder all joints to be sure. I did mine a few years ago on my '91
DX and still working well.

 

Every blessed one of them, if they've got EFI. Late carbed cars got a
simplified version called the "fuel cut" relay. It is not prone to the same
problems as the EFI ones.

 

SWAG;
Carburators need less fuel pressure,and have a reservoir of fuel in their
bowl that keeps the motor running long enough to avoid relay intermittents.

 

Just resolder them all anyway, because you want to fix not only the ones
that have cracked but also reflow the ones that are getting fatigued without
visible cracks.

When I was young I could see bad solder connections two feet away in
fluorescent light. Now I need sunlight, I take off my glasses and put my
face in close. A magnifier and good light are the best way to see them.

Mike

 

All Right!
Thanks For all the help info Links etc.
This is a good thing to know.
Tony