91 honda accord rear tail lights out

Discussion in 'Accord' started by teri, Mar 20, 2007.

  1. teri

    teri Guest

    My headlights, brake lights and turn signals work but none of the back
    running lights work. I had no idea until I was pulled over at night
    by a cop. He only noticed me from several blocks away because I had
    stopped at a stop sign.
    Checked all the fuses inside and under hood- they’re good. There’s a
    relay in the box under the hood called the lighting relay. If that’s
    bad would it cause only the running lights to not work? That’s the
    only one for lighting according to the lid diagram. Also checked bulb
    sockets for bad pig tail.
    Times almost up on my fix it ticket.
     
    teri, Mar 20, 2007
    #1
  2. teri

    Tegger Guest



    I suspect your combination switch (headlight switch) behind the steering
    wheel.

    Firstly, do the taillights work when you turn the headlight switch to
    PARKING LIGHTS only? If so, the switch is faulty.

    If they don't work in either position, backprobe the feed wire (the non-
    black one) at the bulbs with the headlight switch turned to ON. If there is
    no voltage, then you need to work your way upstream.

    I don't have a wiring diagram for your Accord, so I can't tell you which
    fuse controls that circuit. But it should say on the fuse box lid. If the
    fuse is genuinely OK, you need to start multimetering the wires at the
    combination switch connector.

    You probably have four wires (not counting the fat white one) at the switch
    connector. With the headlight switch turned to ON, all four colored wires
    shuld have voltage. One will have voltage only when you pull back on the
    switch to actvate the high beam flash-to-pass.

    If one wire has no voltage at any time, then the switch is bad at that
    contact. Try jumpering the dead wire to the white wire. Do the taillights
    come on now? Then it's definitely the switch.

    There are other circuits activated by the combination switch. check all the
    other lights in and on the car carefully. Any dash lights out? Glove box
    light? Front side marker lights?
     
    Tegger, Mar 21, 2007
    #2
  3. teri

    teri Guest

    Tegger,
    Thanks for the fast reply! I didn’t even think about the switch.
    They don’t come on in the either position. My son and I have checked
    every fuse in both boxs they all look good - but for a few bucks I
    might as well change them all out.
    And yes, now the dash lights are out also. We’ll be getting out the
    multimeter and checking wiring.
    Thanks again for the info I’ll post with results.

    Ter
     
    teri, Mar 23, 2007
    #3
  4. teri

    Eric Guest

    I had a similar problem with my '88 Civic, the headlights worked but none of
    the running lights worked. It turned out to be the head light switch in the
    steering column. Instead of replacing it, I took it apart and polished the
    contacts with some 400 grit wet/dry sand paper and lubed it with some
    silicone grease. It's been working fine ever since and it's been about 6
    years.

    Eric
     
    Eric, Mar 24, 2007
    #4
  5. teri

    Linuxiac Guest

    All sandpaper leaves microscopic bits of silica embedded in the
    contacts, so it is verboten to use sandpaper, as the grains are
    insulators, and abrasive.

    We use a "point file" of metal, once very easy to find, for filing the
    points in the distributor, which is like a metal fingernail file, small,
    and fine grooves, for "polishing' the surfaces. It leaves no residue.
     
    Linuxiac, Apr 5, 2007
    #5
  6. Found in buggy-whip sections of stores everywhere ;-)

    I've had good results with Scotchbrite, that stuff that looks like the
    scrubby side of kitchen sponges. Many hardware stores carry it in the paint
    or sandpaper sections. For relay and switch contacts, a burnishing tool
    (found at electronics supply stores) is best as it does not remove the
    precious metal plating... but that is a whole different story.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Apr 5, 2007
    #6
  7. teri

    Linuxiac Guest

    hehe, I have my collection of point files in tool boxes, scattered over
    two vehicles, and the shed, and the garage... My burnishing tool for
    relays (issued to me in the Air Force) is a bit fragile.
     
    Linuxiac, Apr 6, 2007
    #7

  8. <Steps in, Hijacking thread>

    OK, so what version are you running, and are you using Pan for a reader?

    I have SuSE 10.0 and 10.2 (10.2 with 3D Accel. and Beryl/Compiz). On a USB
    HDD I have Ubuntu 7.04. Gave up on 6.10 and loaded (UGH) XP instead on
    another fixed HDD.
     
    Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B, Apr 7, 2007
    #8
  9. teri

    jim beam Guest

    that's right. scotchbrite is even worse.
     
    jim beam, Apr 7, 2007
    #9
  10. What do you use when you have a "straight-in" approach only and need to
    remove oxide?
     
    Michael Pardee, Apr 7, 2007
    #10
  11. teri

    jim beam Guest

    swiss file. or even just scrape with a screwdriver.

    to be honest, i've used abrasives in "quick fix" situations, especially
    where i intend to replace down the road, but the info on abrasives is
    correct - it's not good practice.
     
    jim beam, Apr 7, 2007
    #11
  12. teri

    Eric Guest

    If you view all headers you would find...

    User-Agent: Thunderbird 1.5.0.7 (X11/20060920)
     
    Eric, Apr 8, 2007
    #12
  13. What's a swiss file?
     
    Michael Pardee, Apr 8, 2007
    #13
  14. teri

    jim beam Guest

    one of those little rat-tailed things.

    http://bandsawblade.com/SimondsFiles/swisspattern.htm
     
    jim beam, Apr 8, 2007
    #14
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