91 Honda Civic DX hatchback

Discussion in 'Civic' started by testy, Feb 6, 2005.

  1. testy

    testy Guest

    122,000 miles and runs very well, the engine is strong. However, I failed
    my emissions so I've done the cheap stuff: new plugs, wires, air filter,
    pcv valve, and fuel filter.

    Maybe that will help but my main problem is this: I'm burning a
    fuel/air/oil/water mixture.

    My brother-in-law gave me the car 2 years ago and it has always burned oil.
    I drive about 350 miles per week and have to add a quart every 2 weeks.

    I overheated the engine about a year ago. Stupid, stupid me. I thought it
    was a gauge problem because the needle was bouncing. It was a pinhole in
    the radiator which some aluma-seal fixed very nicely. The car runs the same
    since so no big deal...maybe.

    Ever since then my exhaust is noticeably more white. When driving down hill
    if I hit the accelerator I turn into something out of a James Bond movie -
    volumnious amounts of white smoke. Water level is fine, I haven't added any
    antifreeze since the radiator problem.

    So here is my question: what are the best options for fixing the oil and
    water burning? Even if I can get through my emissions test I still want to
    remedy the problem.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
     
    testy, Feb 6, 2005
    #1
  2. testy

    jim beam Guest

    how did you test to be sure there's coolant? looking at the expension
    bottle doesn't tell you anything because if the system's leaking, and
    you said it did, when it cools, it sucks air through the leak, not fluid
    from the bottle.

    so, let's assume you've got little coolant. now the engine temp sensor
    [NOT the gauge on the dash] is not getting the right signal about the
    engine's temp, so it's injecting too much fuel to compensate for extreme
    low temp. that causes oil burn too because excess fuel dilutes the oil
    film on the cylinder walls. and causes accelerated wear.

    white smoke? chances are the head gasket's gone. you can get a
    compression test to give you some pointers on this.

    other smog factors? oxygen sensor. you can get one from a junk yard
    for about $15.

    could also be the catalyst. if you've been running the car with any of
    the above for an extended period, that could be dead too.

    bottom line: the motor could be salvagable, but it could also be
    damaged with excess heat, excess cylinder wear, etc. if you don't have
    the ability to test all the above, you need to take it to someone that
    does. it may then become cost effective to replace, not repair. but
    whatever you do, DO NOT replace the motor without replacing the radiator
    & making absolutely certain there are no coolant leaks or you'll get the
    same problems all over again. and you have to take the radiator cap off
    to check coolant. DO NOT rely on looking at the expansion bottle level.
     
    jim beam, Feb 6, 2005
    #2
  3. testy

    testy Guest

    Thanks for the reply.

    I have popped the cap on the radiator several times and it is always full.
    The antifreeze looks nice and green. Like I said, I haven't added any since
    I overheated it. Is it possible that the engine temp sensor is still not
    getting the right signal?

    I figured as much with the head gasket. Thanks for the tip about the
    compression test. Is that a "routine" check that most qualified mechanics
    can do?

    Can a mechanic check the catalyst for me? I'm assuming you mean the
    catalytic converter. Maybe a good muffler shop?

    Thanks for the advice on replacing the radiator in addition to the motor. I
    really appreciate it.
     
    testy, Feb 7, 2005
    #3
  4. Yes - it is a pretty standard test that takes about 1/2 hour.
    Bad catalytic converters usually appear as loss of power - as though the
    accelerator doesn't do anything past, say, half throttle - and/or failing
    emissions tests (in post-'96 North American cars it will also set the "check
    engine" light). I'd recommend not worrying about it until trouble appears.
    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Feb 7, 2005
    #4
  5. testy

    TeGGer® Guest


    Not a "compression" test, a "pressure" test.

    An air line adapter is screwed into the spark plug hole and air is fed into
    the cylinder. You're looking for bubbles into the coolant. Since the water
    jacket is right next to the cylinder, that's the first place a failed
    gasket usually leaks.


    A mechanic can measure the cat temperature with an infra-red thermometer.
    The outlet should be a lot hotter than the inlet. If it's the other way
    around or even both ends, the cat's bad.

    The other way is to give the car an emissions test.
     
    TeGGer®, Feb 7, 2005
    #5
  6. testy

    jim beam Guest

    thanks - that's right!
     
    jim beam, Feb 8, 2005
    #6
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