92-95 Civic-Start problem solved.

Mine happens to be a 94 but schematics are the same for these yearrs except VX.

Original problem was starter would not turn over. All other electrical worked
with key ON.

Troubleshooting found that the solenoid was not getting power when key turned
to START. Indications would be, ignition switch, start cut relay, or clutch
interlock for manual transmissions or transmission switch for automatics.

START CUT RELAY: For those so inclined, the start cut relay is located where
you need to be a rocket scientist to get it out. If you sit in the driver's
seat look to your dash left to where your airvent control is located. Imagine
the housing that that little black vent sits in......Well, the start cut relay
is located immediately below it, up under the dash on the outward metal support
for the dash itself. #10 head on the machine screw that holds it in place, and
it's above the relay.. However, you can't get a socket on it because the
housing is in the way. It is the pits! If you ever have a problem with the
START CUT RELAY, my advice is to buy a new one for $36 and remount it where you
can get to it. Unplug the old one and just leave it there. HONEST! It ain't
worth trying to get it out!

CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH: There are two switches activated by the clutch pedal.
The lower one is for cruise control. The upper one is the CLUTCH INTERLOCK
SWITCH and it is ABOVE the pivot on the clutch pedal. Hence it closes when the
clutch is applied to the floor which is the opposite of the other switch which
OPENS when the clutch is applied. Both are normally open switches.switches.

NOW THE GOOD Both the START CUT RELAY and the CLUTCH INTERLOCK were
GOOD! The problem turned out to be an accessory CUT OUT SWITCH called a
"PROLOCK." In essence it is a blank box full of fancy solid state stuff and it
has a contact key that can be removed. The system is used so that if a thief
pops your ignition lock you have an extra line of defense that's hard wired
into your start system as a deterent.

This system is wired in series to the black/white wire that goes to your
starter solenoid. Therefore, if you have this or similar system on your car,
pull the lower dash panel;, remove the metal cross plate (only two #10 headed
nuts) and you'll see where the splice is made. Then jumper black/white coming
from the ignition to black/white going in to the harness and see if that solves
your problem.

And one more thing....SNOWMAN, who visits this board, was a real help in coming
up with the fix on this problem so if you see him online and this solves your
problem-thank him.

DUMBnEASY