92 Accord Running HOT? Also sometimes IDLE BOUNCE... Thermostat??

Discussion in 'Accord' started by 85miles, Feb 26, 2007.

  1. 85miles

    85miles Guest

    Hi

    I have a 92 accord, 285,000 KM on it.

    Just yesterday I noticed the smell of anti-freeze... soon later after
    driving and coming to a stop I seen anti-freeze steam rising from the
    hood.. I also noticed that when the car sits at idle the temp needle
    rises above the H line.... but as soon as I drive it goes back to
    normal.

    Today I started my car and after about 5 minutes once warmed up (its
    like -10 here now) the idle was bouncing from 800-2000 over and
    over.... once I put in drive it went back to normal. The temp needle
    was also rising above the H line... I started driving and everything
    seems fine but the needle seems to lower and rise above the H
    line.... after 20 minutes or so I came home and just let the car
    idle, there was no longer an idle jump from 800-2000.....

    Im confused.... could this be a temperature coolant sensor? or could
    it be my thermostat? any help would be greatly appreciated!

    -one other thing... since i bought the car this summer when I shut the
    car off sometimes the fan kicks in.
     
    85miles, Feb 26, 2007
    #1
  2. 85miles

    motsco_ Guest

    =================================

    Cooling fan switches don't work if they are not immersed in coolant, so
    top up the rad and fill the reservoir to the -MAX- mark, and add some
    more the next time the engine is cool. You'll see the level has dropped
    as the engine purges some air from the system and 'sips' it from the
    reservoir.
    Owner's manuals are often available from wrecking yards for about 1/3rd
    of the dealer price.

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_, Feb 26, 2007
    #2
  3. 85miles

    marbillion Guest

    I would check or replace the thermostat. sounds like it might be stuck
    closed so hot coolant is only circulating in the engine bypassing the
    radiator.
     
    marbillion, Feb 27, 2007
    #3
  4. 85miles

    85miles Guest

    Today I drove it around looking for a thermostat at some auto part
    stores around here... not one place has a thermostat for my car... but
    anyways, while driving... after maybe an hour of stop and go... the
    check engine light came on, and the car started to lose power... the
    temp was also above the H line.... one more thing is I lost the heat
    in my car today....

    Im starting to think this is a coolant temp sensor, and maybe a
    thermostat too because of the sudden heat loss....

    What are your thoughts?
     
    85miles, Feb 27, 2007
    #4
  5. 85miles

    85miles Guest

    I would also like to add that for about 20 minutes the cars idle was
    jumping from 1000-2200 rpm. Its done that yesterday and today once
    the car got warm.
     
    85miles, Feb 27, 2007
    #5
  6. 85miles

    Tegger Guest


    Bouncing idle is usually a big air leak.

    With car full-warm and idle bouncing, remove air cleaner pipe from throttle
    body. Cover LOWER port in the throttle body with your finger. Does bouncing
    stop? Then Fast Idle Thermo Valve is stuck open.
     
    Tegger, Feb 27, 2007
    #6
  7. 85miles

    Tegger Guest



    Don't use an aftermarket thermostat. That's asking for even more trouble.
    Use a dealer thermostat only. It's about $30.



    Get the code behind the light and report it here.
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/3173_ICCR_E_14JAN03.pdf
    (specifically page 15)



    Replace thermostat and rad cap. With OEM only!
     
    Tegger, Feb 27, 2007
    #7
  8. 85miles

    85miles Guest

    Im starting to think this is a coolant temp sensor, and maybe a
    Why the rad cap too?
     
    85miles, Feb 28, 2007
    #8
  9. 85miles

    Joe LaVigne Guest

    Because Rad Caps go bad, and when they do they allow the coolant to boil,
    forcing it to the reservoir, and then to the ground. Not a good thing.
    Should probably be replaced every few years as a matter of PM.
     
    Joe LaVigne, Feb 28, 2007
    #9
  10. 85miles

    Tegger Guest



    Specifically the vrious seals.




    100% correct. A bad rad cap can sometimes be misdiagnosed as a blown head
    gasket.
     
    Tegger, Feb 28, 2007
    #10
  11. 85miles

    85miles Guest

    OK I just got off the phone with a local garage... they tell me my rad
    is gone... they said what happen was it was low on coolant and thats
    why the car ran hot and I had no heat... but I did top it up the first
    thing that day... and it still ran hot.

    For some reason I don't think it is my rad, because its not leaking or
    anything. And I mean that doesn't explain my idle bouncing and it
    makes more sense to me that my thermostat is gone.... considering one
    day I had heat, the car would only get hot when it was idling, driving
    it would cool down... then the next day I had NO heat, the car was
    running hot for the hour or so i drove it, with no heat.... I'm
    thinking the thermostat was stuck closed or open.

    Do you think my rad is really no good? or could it still be a
    thermostat?
     
    85miles, Feb 28, 2007
    #11
  12. 85miles

    Tegger Guest


    Rads "go bad" in one of three ways:
    1) Fins corrode and fall off,
    2) core gets plugged with crud from neglect or wrong antifreeze,
    3) tanks crack and leak.

    If your garage can't identify these, you need a new garage.

    Bouncing idle is an air leak or low coolant. If you have ascertained the
    rad level is right up to the top, then the problem is most likely the
    Fast Idle Thermo Valve having stuck open. This usually happens when
    cooling systems are neglected.

    Poor heater output combined with overheating at idle (fans working)
    means your coolant circulation is poor. This is usually caused by low
    coolant.

    If the coolant repeatedly gets low in spite of your attempts at topping
    it up, then you have possible:
    1) blown head gasket,
    2) bad rad cap,
    3) failed connection between rad cap and overflow reservoir,
    4) corroded water pump
    5) external water leak.

    You need a competent garage to look at this thing. Your problem should
    be solvable in a half-hour.
     
    Tegger, Mar 1, 2007
    #12
  13. 85miles

    85miles Guest

    Well thanks Tegger your great help...
    Im going to take the car to another garage, I have an unkle that works
    there. Maybe he will have some better advice for me then the previous
    garage.
     
    85miles, Mar 1, 2007
    #13
Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.