The dealer say that my A/C compressor is burned-up and they want to charge $1,000 bucks to fix it. 1. Is this easy to fix, because a compressor at the parts store is only $300? 2. Can I use the clutch from the old compressor? If so, the new compressor would be even less. Is the clutch easy to remove? Thanks, --Al
new compressor with clutch is $475 rebuilt with clutch is $310 you also need to fluch the system and a new drier $33 a new belt is a good idea too www.bought4less.com
I'm Right wrote: a new drier $33 Take the drier off and put it in a warm oven for thirty minutes. It will be good as new. bob
wrong answer el bob-o ya BUY a NEW drier the old one is contaminated. and the compressor is NOT warrantied at all without a new drier you are too dangerous and wreckless to be giving the wrong advice
like anything else....maybe if its the cheapest maybe not autozone and the other parts stores may have some OK rebuilts, but many like the GM A6 and R4 are just REPAINTED! the less common comp like honduhs may be OK.
If you are a good shop with all the proper equipment then its a easy job. Your paying for a warranty primarily, the guarantee that if the new compressor fails than the shop can afford to do the job again without any extra cost to you. A large compressor remanufacturing place said it takes 3 compressors to clean out a system. can you afford to buy three compressors? This same shop was once boxing new compressors as reman's (Due to some supply or contract law) and the "reman" ones were coming back at a high rate; the shops saving money by going the reman route weren't cleaning out the system well enough (if at all) 1000 is a lot of money, bur can you afford to do it several times on your own?
Hey Steve, After I remove the compressor, then I remove the dryer. If you look at the contaminants, it is a dry yellow like powder substance. If you wet it, then it sticks and it becomes difficult to remove completely. Therefore, I use a powerful air compressor and blow the contaminants out first while it is in a dry form. You can see tons of yellow chemicals fly all over the place. This is what I do to A/C systems and I never had a problem when I replaced the compressor and a dryer. Some people use nothing but the wet flush, but if you keep it dry in the beginning and use a good air compressor, I think it would be better unless you use something like this ...............> http://www.hecat-inc.com/aircondition.htm If I done this for a living, then I would use the correct procedure from start to finish. My car has 200,00 mile on it and I don't want to spend $1,000 on a compressor installation. A remanufactured compressor for $300 only needs a quick blow job ..........I'm just buying time hopefully for 2 more years before the tranny goes out. Hey.....I am no real tech guy. So I wouldn't want anyone to write what I say in stone Take care, --Al
I don't really have enough experience with them to say. Rebuilt alternators and starters are the pits; rebuilt water pumps seem to be okay (although I had one fail in just one day), so anybody's guess is as good as mine on that part. I've had a horrifically expensive experience with rebuilt injectors in my Volvo. ($900 - mainly for an entire day of troubleshooting at the dealer. The injectors flow tested perfectly but the engine wouldn't run right with them.) Mike
Al, in a back yard shop, I'd say you are doing a good job. you are attempting (and having good success) at a flush. The holes in a condenser and evaporator can be real small, especially in a 134 system, but if it works! I just want the home mechanic to know that there is a risk if you don't cover your bases, and that can be costly. Steve
