93 Accord- Did I overcharge my ac system?? PLEASE HELP!!

Hi

I have a 93 Accord and noticed that it was not as cold as it normally
gets. So I added 2 cans of freon.

Since then, I hear a slight moan when the car starts but it no longer
get cold. I also notice that the when the clutch engages now it seems
to initially jolt the engine to the point that the engine almost shuts
down. After it enages the engine idles normally

In terms of its cold performance it has gotten worse. I notice that
when I start the car in the morning the ac seems to be blowing cool
but then it cuts off and stops blowing cold.

DId I overcharge the system? If I did overcharge, can I just release
some of pressure out of the system by pressing the valve on the low
pressue side? I plan to take it to my mechanic but dont want to have
to explain my stupidity to him.


jaskim

 

you should get a low side pressure gauge and see how your low line pressures
are..they shouldn't be about 40psi or compressor damage can/will occur

 

Most likely.

The whole point of the Draconian restrictions on Freon was to prevent more
of it being vented into the atmosphere.

Just take it to your mechanic and tell him it doesn't cool and the engine
bogs down with it comes on. If he's competent, he'll figure it out. You
don't need to embarrass yourself.

 

Just out of curiosity, did the '93 Accord use R-12 or R134a?

 

Freon is another name for R12.

1993 was the last year that the Accord used freon.

Andrew

 

Thanks for the information.

My vehicle orignally had R12 but was converted to R134. While I am on
the topic, is it safe to just measure the pressure on the low side
like those Discount auto parts guage kits suggests? In other words is
the measurement on the low pressure side the only indicator of whether
or not I need freon??

If not, why are these products allowed to be marketed this way??

thanks again.

jaskim

 

You're describing a classic case of way too much freon.

JM

 

Why would you need freon if you've converted to R134?

Andrew

 

Freon is a trademark for a group of chlorofluorocarbon compounds used
mainly as refrigerants... in use long before the fluorocarbons had to be
invented for similar uses. While using it for R-134a is not strictly
correct, it's kinda like calling a vacuum cleaner a hoover.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

 

I think we are discussing semantics. In my language (laymans
language) any of that stuff you put in to make your house or car cold
is freon. I dont know what is the technical name.

I did add R134.

jaskim

 

DuPont has apparently chosen the brand name Suva® for their HFC
refrigerants - see www.suva.dupont.com. Doesn't quite sound right....
yet??

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

 

you cant just add refrigerant, you need to put the system under vacuum to
get rid of the air, and you need to know exactly how much too add unless you
wanna pay for a 700 dollar compressor, and a receiver/dryer and expansion
valve. just take it to somewhere that has a recovery/recycle machine.

 

I don't see any mention of opening the system to the atmosphere, or
changing refrigerant, which would be the only reasons to evacuate it. With
a manifold gauge set, it's relatively easy to add refrigerant accurately
without actually measuring quantity of refrigerant. So far the suggestions
of simple overcharge seem reasonable to me.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

 

have you checked the temp control cable yet? these ar famous for
going out of adjustment or the gears sliiping a tooth in the control
head and allowing the heater core to get hot water and mask an a/c
problem. also if you don't read high and low pressures you are doing
a half assed job.
on the other note. the system was converted to r134a so it was
open and air may likely be a big problem. there is no substitute for
a set of manifold guages and doing it the right way.
Chip

 

Ok took the car to an a/c shop

The diagnosis is that the compressor is gone. Strangely enough
the guy added some freon for the time being and it was blowing cool
again (but not cold)

I noticed that the low pressure valve was leaking because I saw
evidence around the valve. However I dont even think the guys at the
shop noticed that. I think they said they detected a problem in the
compressor. I think I may take it for a second opinion considering I
am up against $450 for a replacement rebuilt compressor installed.
This is what you call learning the hard way.

Any ideas.

jasguild

 

Test the valve (spit on it and see if it blows bubbles). If so, then try
tightening it with one of those bicycle tire valve caps that has the valve
wrench built into the top of it. Long shot, but what have you got to lose?
Otherwise, they are probably right - new compressor.

 

Why does this leaking valve suggest a dead compressor??

jasguild

 

My thoughts:

Why did you convert to R-134?? Leak?? Who did the conversion?? While the
conversion requires only two shrader valves for the DIYer to install, the
system must still be evacuated properly, pulling a vacuum and adding the
proper amounts of refrigerent and oil. This part should be done by a
certifide mechanic IMO unless you have the proper equipment and know how.
As you probably know, mixing the two refrigerents is a big no no.

FWIW, our 92 Accord LX has a small undetected leak, so I went to the Honda
dealership yesterday (Friday). They evacuated the system and recharged
with R-12 (yes R-12) refrigerent, adding oil and red flourecent dye used
to detect for leaks. Cost $210.00. Performance wise, using my digital
thermometer, temp cycles average between 42.4 to about 45.5 or so. BTW
Chip is right about the blend door and water valve cable adjustments. I
found this situation on my 95 Civic EX a couple of years ago. Makes a
difference...

I'm not saying you or anyone else should take the route I did, but it
could have been an option before doing the R134 conversion. Maybe you knew
that. Or maybe the car was purchased used already converted by a previous
owner. If I were you, I'd seek a second opinion (possibly a dealer) and
let them advise you That's your call.


Side note:

R134 is inexpensive and available to the public, but there's articles
stating R134 HFC will probably be completely off the market within eight
years with no official replacement, although R744 was mentioned. You don't
want to know the pressures that stuff uses....Forget about conversions....

Here's such an article worth reading:

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/tr/tr70244.htm

 

it doesn't. someone needs to put the guages on it and see what is
really happening, otherwise we just have a bunch of dumb guesses.
Chip

 

Interesting article, from 2002. Wish they stuck a clear date on these
things. Anyhow, all the new ATC (auto temp control) systems sound really
cool, but I'm waiting for the day when HAL decides my skin is too hot
and figures that spraying gas directly on it will bring it down the
right temp... think I'll try to stick with the POAC systems as long as I
can! ;-)

(POAC in case you haven't guessed yet stands for "plain old A/C")