93 accord lx water pump

I have a 93 accord lx and I am changing the water pump and it is turning
into a nightmare. I got the belts off and the upper timing cover off but
now i cant get the cranshaft pulley to come off because i cant get engine
to not turn while i turn the nut. there must be a special tool or
something cause i cant figure it out. I have a haynes repair manual that
says to wedge a large screwdriver between the flywheel and the bell
housing. I tried this for hours and it dont work. someone please help
i need this car back on the road and i cant afford to take it to the shop

 

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http://www.hondasuv.com/stg/viewtopic.php?p=148233#148233

If you're in Canada you can march into Canadian Tire and get the correct
tool for your accord. It might not be the 50 mm model. I know the '95
Odyssey is 50 mm, so the '95 Accord probably is. Don't use a strap
wrench around the pulley because many of them have an integrated rubber
'damper' and you'll shred it if you don't use the correct tool.

'Curly'

 

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http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/crankbolthextool.html

If you're in Canada you can march into Canadian Tire and get the correct
tool for your accord. It might not be the 50 mm model. I know the '95
Odyssey is 50 mm, so the '95 Accord probably is. Don't use a strap
wrench around the pulley because many of them have an integrated rubber
'damper' and you'll shred it if you don't use the correct tool. If you
have a manual tranny you can build a gizmo that bolts to one of the
clutch (or is it flywheel?) bolts, and the other end anchors somewhere
else.

'Curly'

 

=========================

Here's the link I meant to give you:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/crankbolt.html
The other link was more specific to CR-V, Odyssey. You might need the
older style tool.

'Curly'

 

Ditch that Haynes. You will fook up more with the Haynes than you will fix,
ESPECIALLY when you start getting into major invasive surgery.

www.helminc.com is where to go for manuals. That or eBay.

 

No, you got it. www.hondautomotiveparts.com shows, for the
93 Accord LX, the 50 mm hex design of pulley. The tool you
designed and which is now referenced at Tegger's site will
work on it.

 

I'm trying to do the same thing. I know I'm going to have trouble with
crankshift pulley like you are having now. Someone said that you just
have to go to mechanic and give him some little moneys and let him
properly unscrews the crankshaft pulley.
Then he put it back the pulley lightly. Don't tight it too much. Then
you drive
to home and unscrew it. However, the distance between a body shop and
your home has to be short since you drive the car without alternator
and power steering belt and
Air condition belt.
Is this going to work? I'm asking to TeGGEeR or Elle or Curly Q.LInks.

 

wrote in

You don't need to ask. Curly has already given you everything I know:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/crankbolt.html

I like to start with the electric impact wrench first. The bolt will often
come loose with that, and ti only costs $15 per day at an industrial rental
place. The best thing about the impact wrench is that the engine does not
move AT ALL while you work, so your TDC setting is undisturbed.

 

Sure, a lot of people have reported having done this. It's a
great solution.

Do consider tipping the mechanic 10 bucks or so. That's what
folks here have reported doing, so all think they've been
treated fairly.

Not true. The pulley bolt may be freed with all these
accessory belts left intact.

Regarding how tight you should have the mechanic torque the
bolt (after breaking it free): That bolt takes a lot more
torque to free than is actually required when installing it.
E.g. typically over 300 ft-lbs are needed to free it. If the
mechanic frees it, then torques it to the manual's
specification (which varies; it's 119 ft-lbs for my 91
Civic), it will be completely safe to drive. You just do not
want to drive it too long cause the bolt will tighten up
again. Drive a few miles, and you should be able to free it
at home pretty easily.

I don't agree with Tegger that using a pulley holding tool
results in concerns about being a little off TDC. That's not
at all important, from where I'm sitting. What is important
is marking the old timing belt, the crankshaft sprocket, and
the camshaft sprocket so you install the new belt correctly
and don't get the notorious "TB off a tooth" problem.

Here's my site on the three different types of pulley
holding tools available or that one can manufacture one's
self: http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id6.html Note
that, for the 93 Accord, it links to the site Curly steered
you towards earlier.

 

you need a pulley wheel holding tool. go to tegger.com for links.

and buy the helm manual. haynes is UTTER GARBAGE.

 

The screw driver has to be the size of the bolt it rests on. Position it
between the bolt and the center of the flywheel. The screw driver rests
in three points. Use human power to loosen the bolt. I've done this
method on countless Accords 99% of the time.

 

bogus. first you say you replace honda belts without removing the valve
cover, then you say the fuel gauge sender float affects starting, now
you're removing a bolt that takes ~400 ft.lbs to shift with the aid of a
screwdriver??? that's bull.

for other readers, that kind of kludge may work in some cars, but not
this one. if you break a tooth, replacing a broken ring gear on a
honda, where the the ring is welded to the torque converter, is going to
cost you $800+ retail, plus a whole lot of labor. honda provide a
proper holding mechanism on the pulley wheel for precisely this purpose.

 

Holding the flywheel with a 9-mm x 9-mm screw driver is reliable and
secure. I stand behind what I've done for years. If machine power is
needed to move the bolt then you'll need to secure the pulley. And
holding the pulley on the 2.2 liter motor doesn't require any
modifications or a specially built tool.

There is no access to the ring gear on the 2.2-liter engine (auto) from the front.
The ring gear is built very tough. If you're ever to hold the ring
gear on the car, the driven force will be at the gears favor. There is a
ring gear holder depicted in the service manual.

Yes, the valve cover can be removed without the valve cover without
damages.

 

secure for whom? besides, from which planet do 9x9mm bladed screw
drivers come from? you can't hold a ring gear with a 9x9mm shaft alone.
for the home mechanic without air tools, this holding method is
dangerous and liable to cause expensive damage. especially at 400 ft.lbs.

and were would that be? i want to know who employs you to work on
vehicles this way.

and you say you've worked on hondas. i say you haven't or you'd know
that hondas are famous [infamous] for how hard the pulley bolt is to remove.

ok, this is getting ridiculous. if you have an impact wrench, that's a
special tool. without an impact wrench, you're going to need a pulley
holder, another special [but considerably cheaper] tool.

<snip remaining garbage>

you're an unprofessional [bogus] dangerous hack.

 

You've been feeding people with incorrect information and nonsense. The
majority that ask for help in this forum will unlikely own professional tools,
so better to not say, "you need a scope to or a factory-made-pulley-holder
to work on the car."

I have employment but that is not the issue.

Either use a 9-mm x 9-mm x 400-mm square screw driver OR a pulley
holder on the 92 Accord. This pulley holder is built onto your car. All you
need to do is remove it and use it. No, I won't tell you what it is. You need
to grow some imaginations, which I believe you really need. Overall, you
don't need any special tool to break loose the 400ft-lb bolt. If you feel
doing so will damage your car then simply walk into a junk yard with
only a breaker bar and a 19-mm deep socket and figure it out. This
method has the same properties as the professional pulley holder.

And you're not very bright. What I do is unconventional, but not dangerous.
I work professionally, responsibly and efficiently and stand by my work
and fully responsible for it. If I work in a well lit environment with proper
tools I always use professional equipments. I speak from experience
which you have none about the screw driver trick but sarcastic have plenty
of denials and no scientific solid proof.

The bolt is NOT famous for being tight. For the unprofessional, it IS tight.
I've NOT not have any problem with the bolt. You shouldn't if you're a pro.

Simply denying is a sign of insecurity. The timing cover is a scary thought
for anyone who doesn't think outside the box. If you can't remove this
part that says a lot about your proficiency and agility.

You missed the point. The ring gear isn't accessible from the front. The
screw driver holds the head of the flywheel bolt, the center of the flywheel
and the transmission housing. You must know exactly how to place it
between the flywheel or you will have big problems. The screw driver is
thin enough for me to bend into a "U" with my hands but hardly warps
after it's done its job in there. Physical proof of no strain on the motor.

 

you're so insanely warped on this stuff, i /really/ want to know where
you work now. c'mon, out with it, mr. vehicle maint. expert.

 

You can try what I did on a 96 Acura TL and a 88 Accord. Take your old belt
and cut it so that if fits around the pulley. use some tape to hold it in
place. Then pick up a nylon web tie down strap,
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40063 is the
one I used as I had it lying around. Carefully wrap it around the pulley a few
times and leave some slack. Then put a breakar bar, although a strong pipe
should also work, through the end and twist it to take up the slack. Then
place the end of the breaker bar against the body. That will hold the pulley
while you loosen the bolt.