'93 civic, engine cuts out while driving on highway ?

hi,

haven't ben here in a while but now i'm back with perplexing
problem.

i was driving along highway 70 mph and the engines just ** cuts
out **
no warning, no sputter, no bucking, no shimmer, no funny noises
{clunks, thudss nothing}

engine truns over fine, power going to everything fuses look ok,
half-tank of gas

is the that RELAY problem can't remember what it was called ?

need help and ideas,
thanks,
rob

 

hi,
haven't ben here in a while but now i'm back with
perplexingproblem.

i was driving along highway 70 mph and the engines just ** cuts
out **
no warning, no sputter, no bucking, no shimmer, no funny noises
{clunks, thuds nothing}

engine turns over fine, power going to everything fuses look ok,
half-tank of gas

is this that RELAY problem can't remember what it was called ?

need help and ideas,
thanks,
rob

 

hi,
haven't ben here in a while but now i'm back with
perplexingproblem.

i was driving along highway 70 mph and the engines just ** cuts
out **
no warning, no sputter, no bucking, no shimmer, no funny noises
{clunks, thuds nothing}

engine turns over fine, power going to everything fuses look ok,
half-tank of gas

is this that RELAY problem can't remember what it was called ?

need help and ideas,
thanks,
rob

 

hi,
haven't ben here in a while but now i'm back with
perplexingproblem.

i was driving along highway 70 mph and the engines just ** cuts
out **
no warning, no sputter, no bucking, no shimmer, no funny noises
{clunks, thuds nothing}

engine turns over fine, power going to everything fuses look ok,
half-tank of gas

is this that RELAY problem can't remember what it was called ?

need help and ideas,
thanks,
rob

 

Does it eventually restart?

Igniter or coil. Most likely igniter.

 

Does it eventually restart?

Igniter or coil. Most likely igniter.

 

Does it eventually restart?

Igniter or coil. Most likely igniter.

 

Hi Tegger,
Thanks for the help and reply.

no, it did not and does not restart.

Is there a way to test the ignitor ? i have basic electronic
diagnostic tools eg. Multi-Meter ?

thanks again for your help,
rob

 

Hi Tegger,
Thanks for the help and reply.

no, it did not and does not restart.

Is there a way to test the ignitor ? i have basic electronic
diagnostic tools eg. Multi-Meter ?

thanks again for your help,
rob

 

Hi Tegger,
Thanks for the help and reply.

no, it did not and does not restart.

Is there a way to test the ignitor ? i have basic electronic
diagnostic tools eg. Multi-Meter ?

thanks again for your help,
rob

 

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#startrun

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#badigniter

 

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#startrun

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#badigniter

 

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#startrun

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#badigniter

 

--------------------------------

Look inside the valve cover (oil filler cap) while cranking. If nothing
is moving, it's the Timing Belt. Removing the distributor cap will
confirm the same, while cranking for a second.

'Curly'

 

You got it Tegger,
Ignitor had failed *off*. i connected it up with bulb trick and
it would not switch , then i compared to a new one which switches
just fine.


One more question : when i lifted the distributor cap i found the
*spring* that sits between the coil and the distributor cap ...
well the top part was bent way over and appears that it was not
making the connection it should with the cap. *BUT* rather it was
just a spark gap. There is a nice burned spot on the small metal
contact post that is up in the distributor cap

Ques: Could that condition where the contatct spring between
the *Coil* and the *Cap* is not connected cause stress on the
ignitor or thew coil and maybe cause pre-mature failure ?

my reasoning being that a spark gap was causing some parts of the
ignition system to work harder maybe due to less performance from
the double sparking that had to occur ?

thanks so much for the help ,
rob

 

You got it Tegger,
Ignitor had failed *off*. i connected it up with bulb trick and
it would not switch , then i compared to a new one which switches
just fine.


One more question : when i lifted the distributor cap i found the
*spring* that sits between the coil and the distributor cap ...
well the top part was bent way over and appears that it was not
making the connection it should with the cap. *BUT* rather it was
just a spark gap. There is a nice burned spot on the small metal
contact post that is up in the distributor cap

Ques: Could that condition where the contatct spring between
the *Coil* and the *Cap* is not connected cause stress on the
ignitor or thew coil and maybe cause pre-mature failure ?

my reasoning being that a spark gap was causing some parts of the
ignition system to work harder maybe due to less performance from
the double sparking that had to occur ?

thanks so much for the help ,
rob

 

You got it Tegger,
Ignitor had failed *off*. i connected it up with bulb trick and
it would not switch , then i compared to a new one which switches
just fine.


One more question : when i lifted the distributor cap i found the
*spring* that sits between the coil and the distributor cap ...
well the top part was bent way over and appears that it was not
making the connection it should with the cap. *BUT* rather it was
just a spark gap. There is a nice burned spot on the small metal
contact post that is up in the distributor cap

Ques: Could that condition where the contatct spring between
the *Coil* and the *Cap* is not connected cause stress on the
ignitor or thew coil and maybe cause pre-mature failure ?

my reasoning being that a spark gap was causing some parts of the
ignition system to work harder maybe due to less performance from
the double sparking that had to occur ?

thanks so much for the help ,
rob

 

quite possibly, although the igniter should be able to cope with full
open circuit discharge. it's academic at this stage - you need a new
distributor cap and rotor, and you already have a new igniter. now
you'll be set for the next several years.

 

quite possibly, although the igniter should be able to cope with full
open circuit discharge. it's academic at this stage - you need a new
distributor cap and rotor, and you already have a new igniter. now
you'll be set for the next several years.

 

quite possibly, although the igniter should be able to cope with full
open circuit discharge. it's academic at this stage - you need a new
distributor cap and rotor, and you already have a new igniter. now
you'll be set for the next several years.