'93 civic failed emission or suspicious emision test ?

Hello Tegger,
yes i did read it.
steve said it sounds like i need to find a new tester. Thats what
i thought too but i do not think this was his first day and i do
not remeber testers ever having trouble getting a good tach
reading in the past. They always just plopped that paddle up on
the dash and the test done in about 10 minutes.

Then with (Ben and Jim) i have two strikes against the car and
1/2 strike on my story.

I did not know it was standard practice to replace the O2 sensor
every ~80K ? i know i have never done it.

I can and will test it (as i can) to see if it is suspect but
according to those O2 comments and even some of your own posts
about O2 sensors ... the O2 should probably be replaced ?

Anyways what happens if you get failed twice ? Right now i have
to show proof of work done to get it tested again for free ?
other wise i am out $50.

thanks for all the helpful advice,
robb

 

Hello Tegger,
yes i did read it.
steve said it sounds like i need to find a new tester. Thats what
i thought too but i do not think this was his first day and i do
not remeber testers ever having trouble getting a good tach
reading in the past. They always just plopped that paddle up on
the dash and the test done in about 10 minutes.

Then with (Ben and Jim) i have two strikes against the car and
1/2 strike on my story.

I did not know it was standard practice to replace the O2 sensor
every ~80K ? i know i have never done it.

I can and will test it (as i can) to see if it is suspect but
according to those O2 comments and even some of your own posts
about O2 sensors ... the O2 should probably be replaced ?

Anyways what happens if you get failed twice ? Right now i have
to show proof of work done to get it tested again for free ?
other wise i am out $50.

thanks for all the helpful advice,
robb

 

what is smarter?

1. doing the same thing you did before, and expecting a different
result [retesting]? or

2. fixing the freakin' car, /then/ retesting???

denial will only get you so far dude. it certainly won't save you money
or stop wasting electron on usenet!

 

what is smarter?

1. doing the same thing you did before, and expecting a different
result [retesting]? or

2. fixing the freakin' car, /then/ retesting???

denial will only get you so far dude. it certainly won't save you money
or stop wasting electron on usenet!

 

I think he has reasonable concerns that the test was not done correctly
and that there may not be a problem at all with the car.

The *correct* answer, instead of shotgunning the car with parts when it
may or may not actually need them, is to take the car to a shop with its
own exhaust gas analyzer, NOT an emissions test station, and find out if
there is actually a problem.

nate

 

I think he has reasonable concerns that the test was not done correctly
and that there may not be a problem at all with the car.

The *correct* answer, instead of shotgunning the car with parts when it
may or may not actually need them, is to take the car to a shop with its
own exhaust gas analyzer, NOT an emissions test station, and find out if
there is actually a problem.

nate

 

Pay no heed to beam as he resides in his "special" corner of the world
having little to do with the rest of us free thinkers.

I agree that the test may have been botched. Beam's assertion that the
"machine" is infallible is, well, ah... fallible.

BTW, how's JP doing these days?

JT

 

Pay no heed to beam as he resides in his "special" corner of the world
having little to do with the rest of us free thinkers.

I agree that the test may have been botched. Beam's assertion that the
"machine" is infallible is, well, ah... fallible.

BTW, how's JP doing these days?

JT

 

I have seen retests give significantly different numbers when absolutely
nothing was done to the car in between.

Paying for a re-test is cheaper than a new oxygen sensor. To me it's worth
the gamble.

 

I have seen retests give significantly different numbers when absolutely
nothing was done to the car in between.

Paying for a re-test is cheaper than a new oxygen sensor. To me it's worth
the gamble.

 

for sure, i'd make sure i took it to a "test only" station, but when the
op "witnesses" a number of things that are clearly wrong:

"i do not remeber testers ever having trouble getting a good tach
reading in the past. They always just plopped that paddle up on the dash"

"RPM............2718" vs. "i peeked in at the tach which up around
5000-6000"

i seriously doubt his story.

 

for sure, i'd make sure i took it to a "test only" station, but when the
op "witnesses" a number of things that are clearly wrong:

"i do not remeber testers ever having trouble getting a good tach
reading in the past. They always just plopped that paddle up on the dash"

"RPM............2718" vs. "i peeked in at the tach which up around
5000-6000"

i seriously doubt his story.

 

you're a "free thinker"??? on reflection, i suspect you probably are!

 

you're a "free thinker"??? on reflection, i suspect you probably are!

 

he's telling us a bunch of stuff which is inconsistent from post to
post, and which does not accord with the facts.

if he can't do the usual pre-test prep, yes.

 

he's telling us a bunch of stuff which is inconsistent from post to
post, and which does not accord with the facts.

if he can't do the usual pre-test prep, yes.

 

What "facts"? Other than what he has related here, you don't actually know
any "facts" to be challenging.

Once again, if Beam feels the least bit challenged, the accusations of
stupidity directed toward everyone and anyone start flying. Best bet is to
just kill-file him. Life is too short.

 

What "facts"? Other than what he has related here, you don't actually know
any "facts" to be challenging.

Once again, if Beam feels the least bit challenged, the accusations of
stupidity directed toward everyone and anyone start flying. Best bet is to
just kill-file him. Life is too short.

 

:

It is NOT "standard practice". You replace the sensor once it stops
behaving as it should.

You're way high on HC and NOx on both years' tests, but the '09 CO of over
9% may be just a one-time glitch. It could simply be that the cat was
insufficiently warmed up for both tests.

You don't have EGR, so that won't be an issue. Have you ever checked the
basic ignition timing? How old are your plug wires/cap/rotor/plugs?

Don't know. In my area you can have it tested any number of times until it
passes. I think you have to pay for each retest.

If you randomly replace parts with no success you'll be out at least that
amount anyway.

First thing to do is re-book the test, but at a different station. Make
sure you're the very first car on the machine for that day. Take the car
for a long drive (at least an hour) and time your arrival at the station
with just enough time to hand in your key. TURN THE ENGINE OFF; DO NOT
ALLOW IT TO IDLE. They should have the vehicle on the dyno within fifteen
minutes at the outside. This will ensure the cat is up to temp and as
efficient as it can be, which is critical.

IF the car fails again, even when properly prepped, THEN you start doing
troubleshooting. The results from this test, combined with the results from
the other tests, should be enough for a competent tech to daignose the car.

 

:

It is NOT "standard practice". You replace the sensor once it stops
behaving as it should.

You're way high on HC and NOx on both years' tests, but the '09 CO of over
9% may be just a one-time glitch. It could simply be that the cat was
insufficiently warmed up for both tests.

You don't have EGR, so that won't be an issue. Have you ever checked the
basic ignition timing? How old are your plug wires/cap/rotor/plugs?

Don't know. In my area you can have it tested any number of times until it
passes. I think you have to pay for each retest.

If you randomly replace parts with no success you'll be out at least that
amount anyway.

First thing to do is re-book the test, but at a different station. Make
sure you're the very first car on the machine for that day. Take the car
for a long drive (at least an hour) and time your arrival at the station
with just enough time to hand in your key. TURN THE ENGINE OFF; DO NOT
ALLOW IT TO IDLE. They should have the vehicle on the dyno within fifteen
minutes at the outside. This will ensure the cat is up to temp and as
efficient as it can be, which is critical.

IF the car fails again, even when properly prepped, THEN you start doing
troubleshooting. The results from this test, combined with the results from
the other tests, should be enough for a competent tech to daignose the car.