94 Accord and fuel pump relay symptoms...sorta, see post

probably find one in a junkyard for a very modest sum.

 

(Howard Goldstein) wrote in

From what you've observed here, I think you've sort of won the "reverse
lottery" and your ECM is actually bad.

What site is that?

As jim beam says, you should be able to find a suitable used ECM quite
inexpensively from any U-pull wreckers which stocks older cars.

I have a few wreckers in my area of that type. Accords are exceedingly
plentiful in those yards.

 

: (Howard Goldstein) wrote in
: : > Then I tossed the ECM in the fridge for a half hour, put it in the
: > car, and it's perfect. If it starts acting up in a few hours it
: > sounds like it's time for a new ECM, would you think that's a good
: > bet?
:
:
:
:
: From what you've observed here, I think you've sort of won the "reverse
: lottery" and your ECM is actually bad.
:

The problem sort of reminds me of power on reset circuitry problems in
other embedded systems, and some of the cheezy ones rely on caps
charging, and there's all this talk about leaky electrolytic caps. If
only I had a schematic I'd take a surgical strike at at the rest
components on the ECM. Instead I guess I'll buy a lottery ticket this
week too to go along with the crapped ECM.

:
:
:
: > :
: > : You can call you local dealer (or go there) with your VIN. They
: > : will be able to tell you what ECM part numbers your car came with.
: >
: > I got it off the ECM, and it matches the part number from the site in
: > California that digests VINs.
:
:
:
: What site is that?
:

http://www.slhonda.com/partsservice/orderparts.jsp

I can't believe I found it in the browser history

:
:
: > My next problem is how to locate ecm
: > part # 37820-P0A-A01 and not spending a fortune.
:
:
:
: As jim beam says, you should be able to find a suitable used ECM quite
: inexpensively from any U-pull wreckers which stocks older cars.

Thank you jim beam, and tegger. that's the good path to follow.
car-part finds quite a few of these. The pricing is way different
between down here in Fla and up north, I can get two of them and have
$25 left over afer shipping for the same cost as one is posted at online
in Tampa. I'll mail order one if I can't get a better price


:
: I have a few wreckers in my area of that type. Accords are exceedingly
: plentiful in those yards.
:
:

Tons of them right in town here but they're all automatics

 

the auto will work on the stick, but not the other way around. i'd be
inclined to buy one and use it for testing because:

1. you still need the diagnosis.
2. most junkyards offer guarantees, so you can take it back if you get
codes.

the point being that it will allow you to diagnose the problem. and for
$35 [what it costs for a junkyard ecu around here], that's cheap enough
to experiment.

 

(Howard Goldstein) wrote in

Automatic ECMs will work in manual cars. You will get Check Engine light
illuminations with tranny error codes stored, but the car will otherwise
work fine.

If you can get one of those ECMs cheaply it may be worth trying one just to
see if your existing problem goes away.

 

: Howard Goldstein wrote:
: > Tons of them right in town here but they're all automatics
:
: the auto will work on the stick, but not the other way around. i'd be
: inclined to buy one and use it for testing because:
:
: 1. you still need the diagnosis.
: 2. most junkyards offer guarantees, so you can take it back if you get
: codes.
:
: the point being that it will allow you to diagnose the problem. and for
: $35 [what it costs for a junkyard ecu around here], that's cheap enough
: to experiment.

I need some of your junkyards around here. Maybe with the a/t version
so common I'll be able to find it at that price instead of the 4x that
price they're shown at on car-part. I can live with it throwing codes
if it works until I get the one for the standard and as you and tegger
point out, it'll nail the diag for sure

 

Check ebay. I saw many 37820-P0A-A51, is that the auto version?

Hope it helps.

dan

 

: Howard Goldstein wrote:
: > I need some of your junkyards around here. Maybe with the a/t version
: > so common I'll be able to find it at that price instead of the 4x that
: > price they're shown at on car-part. I can live with it throwing codes
: > if it works until I get the one for the standard and as you and tegger
: > point out, it'll nail the diag for sure
: >
: Check ebay. I saw many 37820-P0A-A51, is that the auto version?

According to the slhonda.com site that is the one for the auto. Thanks

 

A junkyard near Tampa had the exact ECU for my 5 speed and it was on
the way home from a commute to Tampa so the $75 didn't seem
unbearable. Sure enough the junkyard ECU is since Monday working
great -- no more
leave-key-on-5-minutes-then-fuel-pump-finally-comes-on action. I
would have preferred to wait longer but we're back in the 40s-low 60s
and the problem never happened unless it was in the 70+

Thank you Tegger, dan, and jim beam for your advice, guidance, and
patience.

 

(Howard Goldstein) wrote in @news.queue.to:

You actually had a bad ECM. With no water damage. Have you any idea how
rare that is?

Glad it's fixed, anyway.

 

: You actually had a bad ECM. With no water damage. Have you any idea how
: rare that is?

These past 6 months have been just awful in many ways so I'm not
surprised that a pristine ECU, clean as the day it left the factory
when I opened it up, would decide to join in with the crowd and kick
me in the head. If I bought a lottery ticket it'd probably have the
winning number but then I'd go to Tallahassee and find that the
machine was broken and that week's drawing voided.

And of course some idiot backed his pickup truck into the hood of the
car in a parking lot 2 weeks ago and now I have to get that fixed.

:
: Glad it's fixed, anyway.
:

Me too. An intermittent starting problem is really, really annoying.