94 Accord EX Head Gasket Replacement Question

94 Honda Accord EX - 300K miles

I replaced the head gasket, after "lapping to plate" both the head and deck.
I took precautions to remove as much of the abrasive residue as possible,
and after 110 miles I changed the oil and filter. The timing belt was
installed in the "same tooth" as before, and the distributor cap is also in
the same exact position. Basically, the car is set up the same as before,
except now there seems to be more compression. The car runs "tighter".

1) Should I adjust anything to reduce any "negative effects" resulting from
this newfound compression? Are the 300K old valves taking a beating now?

2) Since I sanded down the head and the deck, the "volume of compression"
has changed. Is this noteworthy. If so, what adjustmensts might compensate
for this?

I am monitoring the gas mileage and keeping my eye on the oil level.

I think that years ago I used to rotate the distributer cap, to somehow
reduce head pressure.

Thanks for all the help.


Gary

 

two things:

1. less coolant in the combustion chambers! water doesn't burn.
2. cleaned carbon deposits out therefore better gas flow.

no more than before. do check them for lash though.

not so as you'd notice at this level - unless you removed a lot of material.

best to leave the timing as factory.

 

94 Honda Accord EX - 300K miles

Yes. I guess the coolant wasn't doing my valves any good. Never saw coolant
in the oil though.
I guess that would have been next. Good thing I took Tegger's advice to
"park it".

What is "lash"?

material.


I don't think I removed a lot. I mostly took it off where it needed to be
taken off.
Getting the cylinder liners in the same plane with the rest of the deck was
probably
effective.



I'm getting somewhere around 26 mph. So far (230 miles) the oil seems
steady.

 

water's not a problem for valves as far as i'm aware.

that's a gasket thing, and it's rare on hondas due to the open deck
design usually used.

again, open deck [if that's what you had] made that unlikely. the
expensive risk of continuing to run a blown gasket is hot gas cutting of
the head or block at the leakage point.

lash is the gap you use feeler gauges for. needs to be periodically
adjusted.

google " valve lash adjustment" and you'll get loads of how-to's.

it's particularly important on hondas because they tend to wear "too
tight" and burn valves. most other vehicles with inferior valve train
componentry wear "too loose" and valve burn is less of a risk. don't
want to take the head off again do you?

if there is a ring wear problem, it'll take a few thousand to show up.
fingers crossed.

 

1) Should I adjust anything to reduce any "negative effects" resulting

I took your advice and did the valve adjustments today. This car has 300K.
From what
I can see from the previous owner's records, the valves were
"inspected/adjusted" at 30K and
90K.

The specs require .010 in. for the intake valves and .012 in. for the
exhaust valves. Most of the
intake valves were at .008 or .009. The exhaust valves were .010, except
for Piston #2 which
was a whopping .008. After adjusting them, I would say that the engine
sounds better.

Piston #2 is the one with the spark plug that I can't remove. It is about
1/4" higher than the others.
Also, when I sanded down the deck, the cylinder liner for Piston #2 was
recessed below the deck.
So there has been some "activity" in this area.

Thanks for all the advice,

Gary

 

aaargh! while you had the head off, you could have dealt with this.
remove the plug. brute force. clean thread from the piston side.
14mm, 1.25mm pitch tap. usually seized because the thread's been
crossed [tap from the piston side fixes this], crudded up because of gas
leakage [tap from the piston side fixes this] or it's the wrong plug!!!

not necessarily connected.

 

Piston #2 is the one with the spark plug that I can't remove. It is
about

Yeah. I'm kicking myself. Looks like this plug is going to "go the
distance".

 

Observation:

Since doing the valve adjustment, I find that a cold start of the engine
creates an initial idle
of 2000 RPM for awhile. After the engine warms up the idle speed seems to
settle down to about 900 RPM in Neutral, and 850 RPM in Drive with brake on.

 

that's correct behavior.