94 Civic-Where's the starter relay?

Discussion in 'Civic' started by DUMBnEASY, Jan 11, 2004.

  1. DUMBnEASY

    DUMBnEASY Guest

    I get no voltage to my starter solenoid. I've pulled the collar to the
    ignition and Black?White get power when turning to START. I've checked the
    clutch interlock and it appears to be working....only to me it's backwards. It
    opens when you apply pedal and closes when you take your foot off the clutch.
    Does that make sense? NO! But it can't be any different than it was
    originally so I guess it's supposed to work that way.

    Anyway, the only thing I can figure is that there's a starter relay that's bad
    and I can't find it!

    Sorry, I'm a Chrysler guy, myself. An OLD Chrysler guy as I haven't been able
    to afford a new car since 1982....so have pity on an ol' man, would ya?

    Thanks in Advance.
     
    DUMBnEASY, Jan 11, 2004
    #1
  2. DUMBnEASY

    DUMBnEASY Guest

    Oh, and when using a jumper from the battery + to the starter solenoid, the car
    starts right up.

    A thought....Is the starter relay different from the main relay? I know where
    that is....LOL!
     
    DUMBnEASY, Jan 11, 2004
    #2
  3. DUMBnEASY

    Randolph Guest

    If you have cruise control there will be two switches at the clutch
    pedal. The lower one is for the cruise (one black and one pink wire),
    the one above is for the starter interlock (one black and one blue/black
    wire)

    The starter-interlock switch at the clutch pedal should be closed when
    you press the clutch all the way down, open otherwise. This switch
    grounds one side of a relay coil. If you measure the voltage between
    ground and the BLU/BLK wire on the switch you should see about 12V when
    you turn the key to start and do NOT step on the clutch, about 0 V under
    all other conditions.

    There is a clutch interlock relay at the side of the driver's foot well.
    This relay will make contact when the clutch pedal is pushed AND the
    ignition is in the start position. You can test this fairly easily:
    Measure the voltage between ground and fuse # 18. Most automotive fuses
    has recessed metal tabs on the front for easy access with voltmeter
    probes. If the interlock system is working, you should see about 12V at
    the fuse when you press the clutch and turn the ignition to start.

    If you post a real e-mail address I'll send you scans from the service
    manual indicating where the interlock relay is mounted.
     
    Randolph, Jan 11, 2004
    #3
  4. DUMBnEASY

    Randolph Guest

    A thought....Is the starter relay different from the main relay? I know where
    Yes, it is different. The "main relay" is for the fuel injection system.
    The starter interlock relay is mounted a bit above the main relay. You
    should find a cluster of three relays, the two closest to the rear of
    the car are for the moon roof, the one to the front of the car in the
    starter interlock relay.

    What body style and trim level do you have?
     
    Randolph, Jan 11, 2004
    #4
  5. DUMBnEASY

    DUMBnEASY Guest

    I can't believe it! A Saturday night Savior! I DO appreciate it. The model
    is a Civic LX 4 door. It does have manual tranny and cruise control.

    How stuff is starting to make sense. The switch I pulled out is backwards
    because it isn't the right one. Mine opens when pushed, which indicates the
    cruise control. Nes pax? LOL!

    Now a little tech thought more is needed. This is my tenant's car. I am 6'3"
    and about 240. Instead of coming up from underneath wouldn't it be easier for
    me to pull the instrument panel and go in on top?
    I'm terrific at pulling clusters; but I'm too (two-LOL!) big to get both hands
    up underneath the dash. Whadaya think?
    Can I get there that way?

    And once again-THANK YOU!
     
    DUMBnEASY, Jan 11, 2004
    #5
  6. DUMBnEASY

    DUMBnEASY Guest

    And my screen name is real....just add Steve Case's ISP to the end of it. If
    you need more of a hint.... In fact, his ISP bought Time Warner. And if that
    ain't a big enough hint.... I'll post again. LOL!
     
    DUMBnEASY, Jan 11, 2004
    #6
  7. DUMBnEASY

    Randolph Guest

    Not sure about pulling the cluster, there is a lot of stuff in the way
    so I doubt you'd get access from above even with the cluster out of the
    way. What you should try is removing the lower dash panel and the knee
    bolster as this will give much better access to both the clutch pedal
    switch and the interlock relay. See page 20-82 of the service manual.

    For diagnosing the switch you don't really need access to it. You can do
    the measurements at the relay instead. Pull out the relay and measure
    continuity between the blue/black wire of the relay socket and ground.
    If the switch is working there should be continuity when you press the
    pedal all the way.

    If the switch is fine, measure the voltage between ground and the
    blue/white wire at the relay socket as you put the key in the start
    position (no need to step on the clutch). You should see battery
    voltage. Then measure voltage between ground and the black/white wire at
    the relay socket with the key in the start position (again no need to
    step on the clutch). Again you should see battery voltage.

    Assuming you found battery voltage in the two previous tests, plug the
    relay back in and measure the voltage at fuse #18 as you step on the
    clutch and turn the key to start. You should see battery voltage. If you
    don't, it is most likely a faulty starter cut relay.
     
    Randolph, Jan 11, 2004
    #7
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