95 accord, change cap & rotor

Is this tricky or difficult? Besides the cap and rotor, is there a
gasket maybe that should be replaced? In other words, what should I
order to do this right? And any recommendations who to order it from?
I think it is well over due for this sweet driving old gal.

 

No gasket-- but would recommend OEM parts rather than aftermarket. Be sure
to change the wires from the old to new cap one at a time to be sure you get
them in the right hole! Also check the wires for cracks/crazing and replace
them if needed too--- also one at a time!

 

This is very easy. Allocate a couple of beers and enjoy a relaxing hour
giving your car's ignition a spa treatment.

There is certainly a gasket. It's a skinny thing that seals the bottom of
of the cap against the distributor body and should be replaced at the same
time as the cap. Make 100% sure you put the new one on the same way as the
old! It's easy to get it reversed.

The cap and rotor should come from no one but the Honda dealer, despite the
extra cost. Nobody else sells the same quality. Not even close.

If it were me (and I did do just this, this past spring), I'd replace the
entire HT side all at the same time. That means, cap, rotor, plugs and
wires. You want ignition durability and reliability? That's how you get it.

This time around I even bought my NGK plugs at the Honda dealer. I told the
parts guy he could have that sale too, if he could match NAPA's price for
those same plugs. He did. But then I deal with them a lot...

I know one example does not a trend make, but after 308,000 miles and 17½
years, I'm still running the original igniter and coil. I'm guessing my
methods probably have some validity to them.

 

Plug wires fail invisibly. They should be replaced every five years or less
(with OEM only) regardless of mileage or anything else.

 

Honda (and Toyota) are building their vehicles to too high a standard.

The number of early to mid 1990's Civics, Corollas, Accords and Camrys
still on the road with hundreds of thousands of miles on them is way too
high. How can these companies be profitable when their products last for
15-20 years?

What's really amazing is the number of owners that abuse these vehicles
in terms of maintenance, but still don't have problems. My mechanic
(also a relative) told me, 'if the car doesn't burn any oil, people get
away with 10,000 mile or more oil changes all the time, and the engine
is okay.' I guess this makes sense given the oil change intervals in
other parts of the world. He still gets the occasional person coming in
asking for oil changes every 3000 miles. He tries to discourage them,
explaining that there is absolutely no benefit in 3000 mile versus 5000
mile, but these people have been hopelessly brainwashed by Jiffy Lube
advertisements.

 

Got it done, almost.

Could reach all the screws holding on the cap and got that off,
transferring the wires to the new cap, one at a time.
Actually saw the screw holding the rotor on and could get a screw
driver on it but, yep, it won't move. And it's made out of that soft
metal that just gets mushy if you push it too hard.
So, the rotor stayed until I can get a good idea on how to get it out
without wrecking the distributor shaft it's sitting on.

Any ideas on how to get that little screw out?

I don't think an impact driver woud help the situation.

Thanks for your help and wisdom in keeping this beautiful old doll
running, I do appreciate it.

Spark plug wires next.