95 Accord DX Oil Filter Leak

Hello,

I have been having this minor oil leak which I'm almost 85%
sure is coming from the gasket of the oil filter. I have tried looking
for leaks above the filter but can't see any. I also tried pulling off
the existing filter and checking to see if an old gasket was stuck but
all was clear. I've always been using Honda OEM filters. Does anyone
have any suggestions as to what to try? Should I use some liquid
gasket around the edge of the filter and see if that helps?

Thanks in advance
Nick

 

Why wouldn't you just screw on a new filter?

 

Because the current filter was only a week old.

Nick

 

If the installation of the current filter is what started all of this....
replace it and see if the problem continues.

t

 

This is the 2nd filter that it's happening on. I bought a batch from
the dealer but I don't have this problem on my other Hondas which are
using filters from the same batch. I might try a Puralator just to see
if that helps.

 

in that case, i agree, it's unlikely to be the filter. you need to
remove and inspect the seal interface - it may be scratched or there may
be piece of contamination like thread from a rag stuck under the seal.
if it's scratched, the only hope i can see is liquid gasket.

 

I have the same trouble with my 98 Accord, I cannot use the
new type Honda filter. The old type was larger in diameter and
did not bottom on the on the filter casting, only the gasket would.
I use Fram, Puraloter, Pennzoil, and I have no problem,
because they are the same size as the older Honda filters.

 

Thanks Andy,

I'm going to try that route first and get a new oil filter. If
that fails then I'll try the liquid gasket.

Nick

 

Do NOT use liquid gasket on your oil filter flange!!!!!!! That not only
won't work but may cause grave damage to your engine if you get any of it
in the "clean" side of the filter.

IF in fact the filter is to blame, find out why. Don't band-aid the problem
with something that will certainly cause you more trouble in the future
(and make the pro's laugh at you behind your back when you eventually
surrender to them).

You need to be 100% certain the leak is coming from the filter, not "85%
certain". Because of air turbulence in the engine compartment, oil leak
sources are easily obscured as oil whips around as you drive.

Change the filter with a new dealer filter. Wipe the area well that
surrounds the filter mount boss. Put a /very light/ film of oil on the new
filter gasket. Install to 8-10 ft lbs, but NO TIGHTER. With the car still
raised, start the engine and let it idle until the engine is at operating
temperature (about 10-15 minutes). If the filter is in fact leaking, oil
will squeeze past the gasket and form a droplet at the bottom of the
filter. If no droplet ever forms, then it's not your filter that's leaking.

Your leak is more likely to be coming from the valve cover gasket, the
front balance shaft seal, or a cracked exhaust manifold bracket boss (the
last two are known issues on your car).

The thing to do is to get the block steam cleaned (by your dealer, not
you), then sprayed with aerosol leak detection powder. A short drive should
then pinpoint the source of the leak.

I'm betting it's the valve cover gasket, myself.

 

...and I'll put my money on the balancer shaft seal. I had forgetten
until you mentioned it, but there was a kit for the '95 to put a
retaining bracket over the seal because it fell out so easily...

--Gene

 

here's the deal on that though - you're only supposed to use a smear
that will fill any crack or scratch. maybe i should have been more
explicit about that. i've never has a problem with liquid gasket in
this way, but i never splurge this stuff about.

silicone sealants otoh can be a problem, and this is something i've
encountered repairing other people's work on many an occasion. unless
the metal is absolutely clean, no oil films, then the silicone doesn't
stick and tends to end up floating about in the system and clogging
stuff. they're fine if they're squeezed tight and the seal isn't
broken, but once they're broken and bits can flake off, that's when the
problem starts.

 

The point is that sealing potions should never be needed. If there /is/ an
apparent need for such stuff, then something else is wrong. The oil filter
will seal itself properly every time if correctly installed.

Silicone is even worse. Oxygen sensors (especially today's multiple $400
sensors) do not like silicone at all.

 

that depends where - it's regarded as essential in locations such as the
rocker cover corners and the oil pan corners because it gets into the
crevices...

indeed - if there is a leak where there shouldn't be a leak, then
something /is/ wrong. especially in a location that is normally ok like
this.

indeed. unless something's wrong. do i assign a high probability to it
being a problem with the seal mating surface? no. /much/ more likely
it's a problem as i described earlier. but if for some bizarre reason,
say a slipped wrench causing a small gouge on the seal interface, i
stand by my recommendation because other than re-machining, there really
is no other solution.

if it gets into the fuel delivery system. gasket silicone doesn't do
that. it's where people habitually spray liquid silicone lube on
throttle bodies that there's a problem.

 

Silicone is deadly to oxygen sensors no matter where it's applied to the
engine. You must use the "sensor safe" stuff, which not everybody is going
to know about.

I still think it's a poor idea to advise anybody to use goop as a band-aid
fix for a problem that is poorly understood in the first place, which is
what's happening in this case.

 

sorry dude, that's untrue. silicone rubber is perfectly kosher as a
sealant on all kinds of engine systems, and most definitely on the oil
side of the combustion process - it's used extensively by oem manufacturers.

solid silicone rubber /is/ "sensor safe", regardless of the marketing
differentiation. look at the msds of any of the typical silicone gasket
rubbers and they're all pretty much identical.

i agree that we know almost nothing about the op's condition - that's
why i advised closer inspection. but if it's not the filter and it's
not simply crud, then suddenly it's a whole different game. remachining
a damaged interface is impracticable. so what's next? solid silicone
on an interface that's going to be re-made every time the filer changes
isn't going to work.

 

I've replaced the oil filter today with a Puralator Plus since
the size is the same diameter as the old Honda OEM filters. I'll
report back tomorrow if it is still leaking.

Thanks,
Nick

 

Ok after investigating the issue further, it appears that the leak is
coming from a hose with a wire inside of it just below the intake
manifold. It looks like it goes into a cover with a bunch of wires
hidden inside of that. Does anyone know what part this is? Is this
something that I can easily fix with a lift?

Thanks,
Nick

 

sounds like the oil pressure switch. they go frequently on some cars -
not so much honda. check for tightness first. if it's already tight,
just replace it and you'll be fine after that.

just reach up there with a deep socket of the right size. can't recall
right now, but it's metric. buy a new switch from honda - don't mess
with after-market crap.

 

Ok Jim thanks for the help. I looked at my Helms manual and sure
enough that is the part. I'm assuming that the wire is disconnected at
the point where it comes out of the engine block? Also the plastic
shield has cracked in one section should I be concerned, can I shield
it with electrical tape?

Thanks again for the help

Nick

 

yes, the wires go into a snap connector, and the whole connector unplugs
from the switch. like most honda connectors, there's a tab you need to
squeeze to release the retaining hook when unplugging.

yes. don't want it too tight though - the wires need to flex a bit.

you're welcome. for the future, consider purchase of the factory
service manual from helminc.com. haynes is terrible.