95 Accord, engine not turning over?

I have a 95 Accord EX. A few weeks ago the engine wouldn't turn over
after attempting to start the car. After a few attempts it started.
I then cleaned any corrosion on the battery, and the car started fine.
Two days ago the problem started up again. The battery has been
tested, and it's fine. Does anyone have any suggestions? P.S. there
is a clicking noise when I turn the key, and the car does start after
a few tries.

 

The clicking noise is your starter solenoid. Enough power is getting
through to make that work, but not enough to run the starter motor,
which draws hundreds of amps.

You were on the right track. Clean the battery terminals and tighten
them down. Check the other end of the battery cables, particularly the
one that goes to the engine block or bodywork and make sure it's
making good connection there. Check for corroded wires under the
insulation near the battery terminal, sometimes acid gets under the
end.

Your problem could be dirty contacts in the solenoid itself. These
sometimes make good contact and sometimes don't when they get old.
I've never taken the one from an Accord apart, but many have ring-
shaped contacts that rotate a little when they close. That can bring
dirty, corroded spots in and out of contact and make the thing
intermittent.

Check those cables first though.

 

In addition to cleaning the connections (all of them) what kind of
battery test was done? Connecting a voltmeter and seeing 12 volts is
not enough. A fully charged battery delivers 13.2 volts and must be
able to deliver no fewer than 12 when the starter is engaged. It is
possible you are experiencing a dead cell in the battery - this is
common when the temperature changes suddenly.

 

Your problem could be dirty contacts in the solenoid itself. These

His car doesn't appear old. A friend had the same problem with his 96 BMW
and located the problem. What happens is that not enough current is getting
to the solenoid. When enough current is achieved the starter works as
normal. After some digging I'd found that someone had used an aftermarket
relay with the wrong current rating controlled by the car alarm. The relay
disables power from key switch to solenoid. A properly rated relay was
installed and no problems ever since.

The price he'd paid was a disassembled solenoid. Solenoid is virtually
history when dismantled.
Koiji