95 Accord Front Suspension Help

Putting on new brake pads today and noticed on the drivers side that
the (whatever you call it, tie-rod?) had a busted boot and the grease
knuckles rubber was also busted.

This is the link that actually turns the left front wheel. Sorry I'm
don't have a clue what parts are called on front wheel drives. If we
were talking RWD it would be a tie-rod.

Anyway, can just the boot and the grease fitting rubber be replaced or
do I have to replace the entire link. I'm assuming I can replace the
boot on the inner part of the link but the outer part with the grease
fitting will have to be replaced?

Is this a do-it-yourself-er or do I need to take to someone?

I have a "fork" to break the outer joint loose but w/o further
inspection I couldn't really tell about the inner part. Looks like it
connected directly to the steering shaft.

 

wrote in @f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

Sounds like a tie rod. Directly connects the rack to the little arm on
the spindle. The boot's part of the steering rack (if you're talking
about the boot that covers the thing connected to the tie rod). On the
civic, replacing the boot's pretty easy because, you just disconnect the
steering wheel joint (under the dash) , unbolt some bolts and the rack
will drop down to the limits of the PS lines. Then you use pliers on the
Band-it style clamps, take off the boot and replace (tie rod's got to
come off first of course). You can of course take the rack out but, the
PS lines are a major pain in the ass. Worst job I EVER did on a honda.

Hmm come to thing of it, If I did it over again, I think I'd disconnect
from the pump and just feed the lines out the bottom so I could get at
them easier.

The tie rod just unscrews from the rack so, it's even easier to replace.
Make sure you measure the threads to get the new one on pretty close so,
you can drive it to a shop for an alignment. As soon as you disconnect
the tie rod, it's new alignment time.

While Honda wants nearly a grand for a rack, online junk yards sell them
for nearly nothing. I have a couple civic ones in my shed.

Majestic honda is the place to order part. My dealer charges 30% over
MSRP for parts. Majestic charges 30% UNDER MSRP for parts. They have
parts blowups too so, you can actually see the parts you're ordering.

 

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It sounds like you might be describing a CV-Joint?? Pick up a Chilton's
manual and have a look at www.tegger.com as well for special tools
you'll need if you do it yourself.. I like the Chilton's for the
Odyssey, and your Accord is very similar, so you should like the Accord
manual.

'Curly'

 

I guess it could be interpreted either way. I just put new CV joint boots
on my axels. Made the mistake is getting them local because I was in a
hurry. After the fact, I looked them up on Majestic and it turned out OEM
boot kits were cheaper and probably better then the ones I ended up with
Dooh!

I hate the generic clamps that come with the boots. Anyone know where I can
buy "Band-it" style clamps? They looks like large stainless steel cable
ties.

I've used a Chiltons before but, for the money ($60-70) I'd really
recommend the Helmes manual. I have it in both paper and electronic forms
for my cars and it can't be beat. I had to splice two wiring harnesses
together the other day. Civic and Integra. Couldn't have done it without
both manuals (and honda's incredible engineering work).

 

It's not the CV joints, it's the tie-rod and tie-rod end on the drivers
side. I looked at teggers site and it doesn't go into the tie-rod.

I know I can get the outter one loose and replaced, I'm just not sure
about the inner part. If I gotta buy some special tools and it's a big
PIA, I will just have to take it to someone, but I would rather do it
myself.

 

wrote in @g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

'Curly'

If you're just replacing the tie rod end, then it simply unscrews from the
shaft and you screw on a new on. If you're going farther up to the rack and
want to replace the boot too, then you might need a tool for the boot
though, I was able to get them on and off without a tool. Boot replacement
becomes a clearance issue. Can you get in there to work?

 

I haven't looked at it that close yet to see if I can get to the inner
part of the boot to remove it. I needed to get the brakes on the car
yesterday and back on the road. I assuming you need a tool for the
metal clamp that holds the boot in place?

 

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I figured he was probably in a hurry, and most (even small) towns have a
supplier that has a Chilton's in stock. I like the fact that the
Chilton's assumes you're not a trained mechanic, and tells you the
'exceptions to the rules', so you can work around the fact that you
don't have a wall full of OEM Honda specialized tools. I own the Helms
manuals too, (including the electrical one) don't get me wrong.

Here's a link to a tegger.com page that shows a special crankshaft
holding tool I built with a little help from the Chilton book.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/crankbolthextool.html

For the Canadians, a similar tool is now available at Canadian Tire
$34.99 CAN, made by Powerbuilt. I expect Powerbuilt may be available in
USA also . . . .

'Curly'

 

"Simply"...*IF* you don't live in the Rust Belt...

 

Florida.

Do I need a special tool to remove and replace the metal clamp on the
boot?

 

I haven't looked at my Accord but I think there should only be one boot on the
tie-rod per side.
I recently replaced them on my Integra and used a large standard
screwdriver just to get enough space to put my cutters in to cut it out. That
was just for the inside one, on the outside, it should be a spring which you can
expand to get it off (pliers or spring pullers). You will need a special puller
to get the tie-rod end out of the hub so you don't damage the tie-rod ball joint
(tegger has a picture of one on his site). Once you get the tie-rod off of the
hub, you'll need to mark off where the tie-rod is so that when you put it back
on, you don't sway too far from where it was as this will throw your alignment
off.
After the tie-rod is off, you should be able to remove the boot and replace it.
You do need a special tool to get the new inside clamp back on; rather than
doing this, I just used outdoor twist ties that lock in place. They are holding
up as good as the metal ones that were on there before.


Good Luck,
Nick

 

Nick wrote:
<<I haven't looked at my Accord but I think there should only be one
boot on the tie-rod per side.
                I recently replaced them
on my Integra and used a large standard screwdriver just to get enough
space to put my cutters in to cut it out. That was just for the inside
one, on the outside, it should be a spring which you can expand to get
it off (pliers or spring pullers). You will need a special puller to get
the tie-rod end out of the hub so you don't damage the tie-rod ball
joint (tegger has a picture of one on his site). Once you get the
tie-rod off of the hub, you'll need to mark off where the tie-rod is so
that when you put it back on, you don't sway too far from where it was
as this will throw your alignment off.
After the tie-rod is off, you should be able to remove the boot and
replace it. You do need a special tool to get the new inside clamp back
on; rather than doing this, I just used outdoor twist ties that lock in
place. They are holding up as good as the metal ones that were on there
before.>>

Thanks Nick.

As I wrote in my first post, the outer tie-rods grease boot (or whatever
you call it) is also busted so I have to replace the outer tie-rod since
you can't just replace the rubber.

I have a "fork" that I haven't used in yrs that I can use to remove it
from the hub. So damaging the rubber part isn't an issue.

I was thinking about using one of those thick, wide, nylon tie wraps
instead of going back with the metal clamp on the boot. (since you need
a special tool)

Those things are probably stronger than the metal anyway. LOL

 

OK, I have my new parts and have the car apart ( only 15 minutes) and
I'm ready to put it back together, 3 questions.

1) The threaded part of the tie-rod, the part that is attached to the
rack and rotates, do I need to pack that joint/knuckle with grease and
if so what kind? Wheel bearing grease perhaps?

2) Do I need to put any grease on ANY parts before installing the new
boot?

3) What is the purpose of the small hose that attaches to the boot?

 

yes you can replace just the rubber! use a little ingenuity.

dude, get the proper tool. check out tegger's faq's for pics and rough
prices. forks are destructive and not very safe.

can't take heat. use two loops of thick copper wire and twist the ends.

 

think it's a silicone grease. get the helm manual and check. honda
uses silicone greases on the power steering system, and i suspect oil
too, and ordinary greases/oils ruin the seals.

you can usually replace just the boot if it's not too dirty in there.
make sure it's clean before reassembly.

balance air pressure between sides - as one bellows compresses, the
other expands. a closed system keeps contaminants out and significantly
increases life of the seals.

 

think it's a silicone grease. get the helm manual and check. honda
uses silicone greases on the power steering system, and i suspect oil
too, and ordinary greases/oils ruin the seals.

you can usually replace just the boot if it's not too dirty in there.
make sure it's clean before reassembly.

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I guess that should have been 1 question. Do I need to pack that
knuckle that connects the outer and inner tie rod with grease?

There is NO dirt in there.

I don't know how long the boot has been split, so I need to know if the
knuckle joint is supposed to be "packed" with grease the way the CV
joints are.

 

you mean inside the bellows? no, that stays dry. the joint it protects
is sealed for life and pre-lubed.

 

Thanks for everyones help. Got the parts and did the whole job in less
than an hour.

The hardest part of the job was getting that little clamp and hose back
on the boot!

They sure as hell don't give you much hose to work with with there.

 

Agreed on that . That's why I also chose to use the plastic ties instead of
getting the metal ones. I hear that some manufactures are starting to use those
as well. Obviously car manufactures want it to be proprietary since they can
charge $6 on a piece of metal that costs 50 cents to make vs. a plastic tie
which cots 10 cents. Good to hear that you fixed everything.

Nick