95 Civic rear disc brake prob

I'm trying to change the rear disc brake pads on my 95 Civic EX. Passanger
side is now complete. The upper pin on the passanger caliper mounting
bracket was sticking causing the inner pad to wear down. I was able to
free the upper pin and replace it...... On the driver's side, I have
removed the caliper. But, now I can't remove its upper caliper pin in the
caliper mounting bracket housing which is attached to the vehicle. The pin
will not move. I removed the rubber protective sleeve, sprayed PB Blaster
into the pin area multiple times and I tried warming the housing with a
propane torch. I have tried everything but a pipe wrench to break it free.
It will not move at all. Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions.

 

why do you want to replace it? isn't it a fixed part? all you need to
do is clean and lube so that the caliper slides properly, then reassemble.

 

Jim, I got to wordy in my discussion. I have an upper floating pin stuck in
the housing and can't free it. I plan to replace the pin which is getting
destroyed by me if and when I can get it out. Any Ideas on how to get it
out? I plan to thread a bolt into the pin today and put a six point
wrench on it to try and break it free. It won't move at all.

 

They can be ungodly tight when they seize (as you see!) Persistence with
modest heat cycling plus the PB Blaster like you have been doing may do the
job, or you may have to replace the caliper.

Good luck.

Mike

 

Clamp a set of Vise-Grips on the pin's head. Use a hammer to shock the pin
into turning.

See here for more:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/moredetail/brakes2_detail.html

 

couple of suggestions - pipe wrenches are /very/ effective. also modest
heat - it may be loctited. there are some bolts on hondas that appear
to use this, and modest heat shifts this just fine ~250F.

finally, regarding 6-point wrenches, you mean torx? be careful which
tool you use. i have found lisle [from sears] to be the most abysmal
crap that easily breaks and ruins the socket on the bolt you're trying
to turn. once that happens, you have to drill. instead, get a tool
where the working part is an insert - better for heat treatment and
therefore strength during manufacture.

 

Thanks guys; I got it off after heating "gentley" with an acetelene torch.
A pipe wrench would not budge it before some serious heat. Thanks again
Michael and Tegger.