95 civic wont start!

the other day i woke up and my car had a stumble really bad. drove
around then let it chill and now it wont crank up at all. first i
replaced the fuel filter and the plugs. im gettin gas. then i replaced
the distrib. cap and rotor. still no start. then i went deeper and
tested the coil-tested fine- then tested and replaced the
igniter(ignition control module). still no start. i checked with my
electric tester and im gettin power to my coil from the black/yellow
wire but it seems like the power wont go to the cap or rotor. im as
confused as a baby in a tity bar. any help here would be greatly
appreciated also in my haynes manual it said
with the wires disconected from the coil i should be gettin power to
the blue/white wire where it attaches to the igniter- i didnt get
power there on my old or new igniter

 

+++++++++++++++++++++++

Did you check to see if the rotor turns when the engine is cranked?
(timing belt failure)

Fuel filter manifests at HIGH speed.

 

also....just checked to see if i get a spark from the coil to a
grounded wire and no spark, yet electric tester still reveals
power??????

 

Supply power to the coil ¼ of second. There should be spark.

 

Hi.
I had a similar problem very recently with my wife's integra, which is
probably very similar to your civic. My coils measured ok statically,
but in circuit it wasn't generating high voltage. The transformer's
insulation had broken down and it was arcing to the metal distributor
case.
I'd take the unit out (two screws) and inspect it carefully - mine was
discolored, almost burned in spots (it looked like it had gotten hot,
anyway) and had microcracks in the case.

Hope this is of use.
Remco

 

motsco- yeh the rotor turns no problem with the belt

remcow-when you saw transformer do you mean the ignitor module or the
coil?
thanks much for all the help

 

I replaced both the ignitor and the coil (which electrically is really a
transformer, so that's what I called it).. The Coil is the unit that looks
like it has a chimney with a spring on the top. The igniter is a module with
four wires.

I am not sure what your problem is, but I take it you're looking to see if
your igniter is bad?
Someone on this honda group told me about a trick where you connect a light
bulb between the output of the igniter(not the 12V common wire - the other
one) and 12V. When you crank the car, the light will flicker -- I haven't
tried it, but it seems like a very plausible test.

Hope this helps - Remco

http://www.AutoForumz.com/eform.php?p=350034

 

Hi

The coil (electrically it really is a transformer) is that module with
a chimney looking thing sticking out. The top of the chimney has a
spring on it. When you check for spark, I take it you have something
attached to this spring that is close to ground?

The ignitor is another module below it with four wires on it. Since
you aren't getting a spark pulling the coil's primary to ground, your
ignitor may not be the primary problem -- it could still be bad, but I
would check the coil first.
Someone clever in this honda group (a tech for Honda) mentioned that
one can unhook the transformer, put a light between the output of the
ignitor and 12V -- when starting the car, you should see the bulb
flash if the ignitor is good. I haven't tried it but it seems like a
very legitimate ignitor test.

When testing the coil, if you don't get a spark when you briefly short
the cold primary and do have power, the thing isn't behaving as a
transformer. Btw, don't keep it shorted as that will only create one
spark and may burn out your coil. Just short, let go. My coil had
cracks in the case and it actually arced through its case to the case
of the distributor. Take the thing out and inspect it closely.
Also, a new coil and/or ignitor can be bought a lot cheaper on the net
-- be sure to search for it before you allow the dealer to hose you.

Hope this is of use to you.
Remco

 

I agree with the other posters and they may have already solved your
problem. If you still have the problem after trying these things, I
suggest that you jump start it (from another battery) and see if it starts
up. If it does start up, it probably means that you need a new battery. If
it won't start when you attempt to jump start it, it could mean you need a
new starter or starter solenoid. There is also the possibility that a
defective alternator is the source of the problem. Some of the auto parts
stores test various parts for free. Sears may also test parts for free but
most of their so called tech people don't know how to perform the tests
properly. You could get lucky--if possibly--watch them.

 

Put a bulb on the coil +, - then crank.
Flash = bad coil. No flash = igniter not switching.

Put a DVOM on the coil +, - then crank.
Toggles between 12VDC and zero = bad coil. No toggle = igniter not switching.

Rick

 

There you go -- you should be able to tell where it is coming from
using Rick's test.

One more thing, in case you have to replace the ignitor: the original
one was just attached to a plate with screws. It did not have heat
sink compound between these two surfaces. This stuff will help the
thing get rid of its heat better and will probably help it in getting
old. It is commonly used in the electronic industry and I was quite
surprised none was present.

Heatsink compound can be bought at Radio Shack -- it comes in a tube
and has a toothpaste like consistency. Put a blob on the middle of the
ignitor and tighten the screws - it spreads out nicely and just wipe
off the excess.

Hope it all worked out for you and get it running soon.
Remco