95 Integra....Car has difficulty starting

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Nick, Dec 26, 2004.

  1. Nick

    Nick Guest

    Hello,


    I have a 95 Integra with 89k miles which has a problem
    starting up and would like to know if it's something other than water
    in my gas. This usually occurs initially when the car has been sitting
    for about 3hrs or more. When I try to start it, all of the dash lights
    come on, the car turns and the engine begins to start, but then stops.
    When it does this all of the lights go out on the dash, but if I start
    the engine again without resetting the key, the lights come on and the
    problem happens again. If I do this about 5 times and press the peddle
    a bit, the car eventually starts. While it starts I get a few stutters
    from the engine initially for about 10 seconds and then there is no
    problem for the rest of the drive. I was thinking that this was
    nothing more than bad gas and have purchased a bottle of STP that
    prevents gas freeze, but have not fully emptied the tank yet.
    The battery was purchased from Acura about 2 years ago but we
    only had one day of 50+ degree weather this past week (which this
    problem didn't happen) so I'm waiting for another warm day to see if
    this doesn't happen to see if the problem lies with the battery.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Nick
     
    Nick, Dec 26, 2004
    #1
  2. Nick

    John Ings Guest

    I'd be suspecting your ignition switch at this point.
    Bad gas isn't going to make your warning lights go out.
    You might loosten and retighten your battery connections and check the
    ground at the end of the negative cable.
     
    John Ings, Dec 26, 2004
    #2
  3. Nick

    remcow Guest

    I have a 95 Integra with 89k miles which has a problem
    Hi Nick

    When you start the car and it stops and all the lights go off, does it sound
    like the starter is bearing down (ie working hard, eventually stopping but
    not starting the car)?
    I wonder if the starter is just too large of an electric load.

    Your battery or something power related could be the cause. It could be a
    bad major ground or power connection from the battery. Perhaps clean all
    your connections (battery terminals and terminals to the starter).
    It could also be because the starter is bad or is on its way out.

    Perhaps put a voltmeter across the battery to see if it drops below 10V when
    you start the car. If it does, your battery is a likely suspect.

    Hope you find it soon.
    Remco
     
    remcow, Dec 26, 2004
    #3
  4. Nick

    Remco Guest

    Now that I read your your post again, I might have misunderstood it:

    When the car stops, are you still trying to crank it with the starter?
    Or has it just started, you've released the key and now the car stalls?
    When you say that the dash lights go out, you mean they go out as they
    normally would when the car is running?

    If the car is cranking normally, I was wrong suggesting the starter or
    related issues so forget what I said in that case.
    John's suggestion is very valid. A convenient way to check the
    running/start position is to put a multimeter on any fuse that is
    powered while the car is running. The window wiper or cruise control,
    both under the dash, are good examples of fuses to use for this
    purpose.
    Note I am not suggesting that these fuses are blown: just that they
    should have 12V when the car is running/starting. If your car stops and
    the voltage disappears on these fuses, it means that the ignition
    switch or connecting wires might be your problem.
    If the voltage is still present and the car stops running, perhaps
    troubleshoot the ignition or fuel supply (possible main relay).

    Just making sure -- wouldn't want to steer you in a wrong direction.
    Regards,
    Remco
     
    Remco, Dec 26, 2004
    #4
  5. Nick

    Nick Guest

    Thanks for everyone's help on this...When I'm starting the engine, it
    seems like the engine is starting normally up to about 1000 RPMs and
    then the engine stops. When I do get the engine running I have my foot
    pressed on the accelerator a little bit. All of the lights including
    the clock go out when this occurs including Parking light on the dash
    that tells you what gear you have the car in. I'm going to take a look
    at the battery connections first and make sure everything is clean and
    the ground is set correctly (may have come semi-loose). If that not
    it, it may be the ignition switch possibly? I'll look into that as
    well. Tomorrow I will have a look and get back to everyone. Thanks
    again for your troubleshooting on this problem.

    Nick
     
    Nick, Dec 27, 2004
    #5
  6. Nick

    SoCalMike Guest

    highly likely, from your description. theres supposedly a method
    someones used to play with the key- start it, then gently release the
    key, yet hold it in a certain position to keep the car running. if that
    trick works, its definately your switch.
     
    SoCalMike, Dec 27, 2004
    #6
  7. Nick

    John Ings Guest

    If you're going to take the battery terminals off, make sure you have
    the radio code handy.
     
    John Ings, Dec 27, 2004
    #7
  8. Nick

    Nick Guest

    Here is an update to my problem.

    Since the problem started I've cleaned out the battery
    terminals and made sure that the ground wire was mounted to the
    chassis (which it was). When I went into the car I tapped a few times
    the ignition switch (not that I think that has done anything) but the
    problem has gone away (even with some 30 degree temp days). I've also
    gone through 2 tanks of gas so I'm not sure what caused the problem.
    I'll continue to monitor the situation to see if it comes back again
    and then go out an purchase a new ignition switch. I'm also going to
    put an order in for new spark plug wires as my car is idling roughly
    even after I have adjusted it as per the helm manual, and because they
    are the original ones (10 years). Thanks for everyone's help on this
    one.

    Nick
     
    Nick, Dec 30, 2004
    #8
  9. Nick

    SoCalMike Guest

    id spring for an OEM honda cap and rotor as well. might as well go all
    the way!
     
    SoCalMike, Dec 30, 2004
    #9
  10. Nick

    motsco_ _ Guest


    ----------------------
    Nick,

    Regarding the bad idle, If you have the same (basic) DOHC engine as the
    '97 CRV, have you adjusted your valves very regularly, (30,000 mi)?

    A Google search might turn up some info.

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_ _, Dec 30, 2004
    #10
  11. Nick

    Nick Guest

    Hi Curly,

    Yes I have about ~ 5k miles ago. I followed the instructions
    as per the Hayes manual. I would think to replace them after 10 years
    of use as they may not be performing as well as new ones. Am I
    incorrect in saying this?

    Thanks,
    Nick
     
    Nick, Jan 2, 2005
    #11
  12. Nick

    jim beam Guest

    replacing valves? after only 89k miles? absolutely not necessary. not
    cheap either! check the archives - hondas regularly go over 300k, and
    valve wear is never an issue afaik.
     
    jim beam, Jan 2, 2005
    #12
  13. Nick

    Nick Guest

    Valves sorry no I haven't adjusted them. I only adjusted the idle
    speed. I'll look into that.
     
    Nick, Jan 2, 2005
    #13
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