96 EX V6 intermittent AC cooling.

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by KR, May 28, 2008.

  1. KR

    KR Guest

    96 EX V6 has intermittent cooling. Sometimes very cool & sometimes
    blowing hot - even on the same short trip. Seems like it is probably
    blowing hot more frequently than in the past. Anybody with a similar
    experience &/or any tips on what to check for? I'll take on something
    if it isn't major. Thanks.
     
    KR, May 28, 2008
    #1
  2. KR

    IB Guest

    Any pattern to when it seems to work and when it doesn't (i.e. does it work
    better when the car is at speed)?
    Do you know if the compressor is running when it isn't cooling?
    Are the condensor fans running ok?
     
    IB, May 29, 2008
    #2
  3. KR

    KR Guest

    Being intermittent it has been hard to catch & diagnose but I've
    discerned no pattern either to outside temp or RPM. I am attempting
    to see if compressor &/or fan is running during hot episodes.
    Thanks. I would think the intermittent nature of the problem would
    rule out quite a bit, such as compressor & refrigerant.
     
    KR, May 30, 2008
    #3
  4. KR

    KR Guest

    Update on intermittent AC cooling. When working the air is cold so
    I'm not sure how it could be a low refrigerant cause. When blowing
    hot air the condensor fan is still running but the compressor is not
    turning. So, something is causing the compressor to not run when it
    should. From my research on this it seems that it could be the
    compressor clutch relay, the thermostat or the pressure switch. Any
    experience or ideas on this? Thanks.
     
    KR, May 31, 2008
    #4
  5. KR

    KR Guest

    Further update: The fact the condensor fan runs when the compressor
    fan doesn't seems to rule out the AC switch & I think but am not
    certain, the thermostat (in the evaporator). I'm not clear on whether
    it also rules out the pressure switch. If the compressor stops
    because of a pressure reading, should the condensor fan still run?
    Will a low pressure (like low refrig) trigger the switch & stop the
    compressor just like a too high reading? I feel I'm closing in on
    this & my chief suspect is the compressor clutch relay but want to be
    sure before I start ordering parts. Thanks.
     
    KR, Jun 1, 2008
    #5
  6. KR

    IB Guest


    All systems are different, particularly the logic of when the fans run and
    when the compressor runs. One thing to check if you can get to it, is there
    12v at the compressor when it should be running and it is not? If there is,
    can you (carefully!) get something metallic near the compressor clutch and
    feel if there is some magnetic force? If so, the clutch clearance may have
    become to large, it is usually easy to re-shim this. If there is no 12v,
    work backwards through the electrical system. Do you have a wiring diagram?
    You might find one here: http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html

    It's obviously not a refrigerant level problem. It's the compressor or
    something before it electrically.


    www.poolecool.co.uk
     
    IB, Jun 1, 2008
    #6
  7. KR

    KR Guest

    Update: I checked the refrigerant level & pressure & it is fine. One
    more Q&A & I should have this figured out. If my pressure switch is
    bad, would the condensor fan run & the compressor not run? Does the
    system need to be evacuated to replace the pressure switch? If the
    condensor fan should not be running if the compressor is not running
    then my next step is to replace the compressor clutch relay which has
    been my chief suspect all along. Appreciate any knowledgeable feedback
    out there. Thanks.
     
    KR, Jun 2, 2008
    #7
  8. KR

    IB Guest


    Pressures for running the fan, and safety cutout, are different and have
    separate sensors even if in the same body. So it could be the sensor or the
    compressor (or any of the other parts you mention). I wouldn't know the
    specifics of your car without looking at it. If you have a wiring diagram,
    and can identify the parts and the wire colours, you should be able to find
    the fault. It's either that or just change things until it works. Many
    pressure switches are on shut off valves, so you can change them with only a
    little loss of gas as you unscrew them, but I wouldn't be certain about
    yours without seeing it. Again, if you figure out what the pressure switch
    is doing from the wiring diagram, you can bypass it as a test.

    www.poolecool.co.uk
     
    IB, Jun 2, 2008
    #8
  9. KR

    KR Guest

    Update: I checked the red clutch/coil lead in "failed" mode & I still
    had battery voltage which proves my relay is fine. I then forced the
    clutch against the rotating pressure plate (exciting - I recommend a
    thin wooden stick/pole - less sparks than metal) & lo & behold, it
    engaged. The gap is out of spec - not by a huge amount but it is
    bigger than the outside tolerance. I guess that over time the natural
    progression is for everything to wear & loosen to a wider gap.
    So, it seems clear I need to pull the clutch & remove some shims.
    I've never messed with a compressor clutch & there is precious little
    clearance from the end of the clutch to the inner fender - maybe
    3/4". I'm not sure what I'm getting into here. I don't think there
    is enough clearance without pulling the compressor & then I'm not sure
    you could do it without evacuating the system? Can you do this with
    the compressor in place or must it be removed? I'm wondering if I
    might be better off to take it to a reliable mechanic & have them do
    this. I wouldn't expect there to be too much to it for them....maybe
    1 hour labor or something like that? Any opinions or experience on
    this? Thanks again.
     
    KR, Jun 2, 2008
    #9
  10. KR

    IB Guest

    Ok, looks like we diagnosed it. If you can get to the nut / bolt on the end
    of the compressor, try loosening it - you may need to arrange something to
    lock the clutch plate from turning. Then, if you have enough space, you
    should be able to remove the clutch plate, and you should find some shims
    which can be removed.

    If you don't have enough space the compressor must come off, which means
    regassing.

    www.poolecool.co.uk
     
    IB, Jun 2, 2008
    #10
  11. KR

    KR Guest

    The only way to get at the end center bolt is to dismount the
    compressor from the mounting bracket & move it around as much as I can
    within a limited space. Just for grins I tried to test the coil
    resistance. I'm using 2 Micronta meters & I'm getting right at 3 ohms
    from on1 & 3.25 ohms from the other. These aren't expensive meters so
    I know I can't expect high accuracy. If a coil was getting weaker,
    would the resistance increase or decrease? Also, I'm not sure what
    the spec is for this coil. I have a shop manual for a 96 4 cyl that
    states 3.6 +- .2 ohms. I have a 96 V6 & I've already found some
    differences between the AC systems. Does anybody know what the clutch
    coil resistance should be on a 96 EX V6? Thanks.
     
    KR, Jun 3, 2008
    #11
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